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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering still sucks

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ok replaced shocks,ball joints,track bar ,tie rods, steering shaft, steering box, put in brace for steering box. the truck still wanders. i think it should be tighter with all the new parts. steering box was from a1 i can still replace it under warranty. anyone get a bad one right out of the box? Looking for suggestions. controll arms maybe? thanks bill UP DATE SAT SO LONG IN MY GARAGE I HAD TO PULL THE TURBO AND LUBE UP THE WASTE GATE I CANT STAND DRIVING THIS THING MY OLD 84 F350 DUMP TRUCK WITH WORN KINGPINS DRIVES BETTER!

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Don't know what to Say. . Maybe get the 3rd gen retrofit kit for the trackbar. . Mine made a big difference when I did that.
 
As noted I see no alignment details.

I would suggest that you perform the following checks.

With the truck on a hard level surface start it and move it back forward a couple feet to remove any tension on the steering while holding the steering in the position which represents straight while driving.

Now perform the following checks;

Even if you have the alignment details perform this check to verify the results.

Check & adjust tire pressure.

Run your hand across the tread of the tire, it should feel smooth in both directions.

If the tread feels rough or feathered in one direction but smooth in the other direction the toe-in is likely off.

If the tread feels rough sliding your hand in across the tire it would indicate excessive toe-out. If it is rough sliding your hand out it would be toe-in.

If it feels smooth in both directions it would indicate that he toe-in is in the ballpark but may be insufficient to make the vehicle go straight & steady down the road.

There are other factors that can cause wandering but toe-in is what we will focus on here.



Make a chalk mark on the front of each tire at 90 deg to the ground;

Take a tape measure and have a helper hold the tape precisely the marked spot on one tire while you read the tape on the other tire which was marked and record.

Roll the truck forward or back to move the mark on the tread to the rear of the tire and record the measurement.

Repeat the process 2 or 3 times for accuracy.

The difference will be toe-in, or toe-out.

The measurement of the front should be less than the rear and should be approx 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, refer to your shop manual.

Rear wheel drive vehicles generally require toe-in to compensate for the tendency of the wheels to toe-out due to rolling resistance and braking.

Lack of toe-in or excessive toe-in will make it very difficult to keep the vehicle going straight and steady.

If you are capable you can adjust the toe-in to experiment. If you choose to experiment I would make adjustments to the tube in ¼ to ½ turn increments then test drive & note.

Keep notes so you can return to the original position.

Keep adjusting until you feel a difference in the steering then go the other way & note the difference. Try to find the position with-in the alignment specifications that drives the best.

Let us know how you make out.
 
When and/or if you take it in for alighnment, make sure that they measure the front axle for side to side to make sure it is centered. If you don't ask for the side to side readout, they will not do it. (at least up here anywise) Just replaced my track bar and took it in. Mine was off only by 1/16 of an inch but the alighnment guy says he has seen some dodges off by over an inch. That'll make a big difference.

WD
 
When and/or if you take it in for alighnment, make sure that they measure the front axle for side to side to make sure it is centered. If you don't ask for the side to side readout, they will not do it. (at least up here anywise) Just replaced my track bar and took it in. Mine was off only by 1/16 of an inch but the alighnment guy says he has seen some dodges off by over an inch. That'll make a big difference.

WD
How do you measure the axle to be sure it's centered side-to-side which I believe is left to right between the wheels and not front to back... if that makes sense.



I guess you could find the center of the axle housing and mark that and then find the center between the frame rails and make sure they agree.



I guess if its not centered you could re-center it with an adjustable track bar but how do you re-center a non-adjustable track bar. I guess this is something my old brain cannot figure out so I'm puzzled.
 
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Check your steering stabilizer shock, too. Bent, dented, binding, bad bushings, or even just worn out will cause the same symptoms. You've done the right stuff so far, imo. I would be ticked, too, after dumping that kind of money in it. Mine is getting "the full Big $$$ treatment" right now, too. It had better not turn out like yours or this Dodge is toast and my Chevy gets a great Cummins motor swap...

You may have to get more "creative"... :-laf

The New Taxpayer-funded Chrysler/GM (Government Motors) does listen and they do care. These are Ma Mopar engineers working on improved prototype steering setups. Please note the superior design to the steering installed on our trucks:
 
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Check your steering stabilizer shock, too. Bent, dented, binding, bad bushings, or even just worn out will cause the same symptoms. You've done the right stuff so far, imo. I would be ticked, too, after dumping that kind of money in it. Mine is getting "the full Big $$$ treatment" right now, too. It had better not turn out like yours or this Dodge is toast and my Chevy gets a great Cummins motor swap...



You may have to get more "creative"... :-laf



The New Taxpayer-funded Chrysler/GM (Government Motors) does listen and they do care. These are Ma Mopar engineers working on improved prototype steering setups. Please note the superior design to the steering installed on our trucks:



Thanks SRath,



I'm STILL laughing. :-laf Thanks for the link, too!
 
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