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Steering Wander

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First of all, I have a 2001 ETH 4x4 S. B. We broke this truck in by taking a 2000 mile trip into Arkansas around Crowley's Ridge, then down to Greer's Ferry Lake for a couple of days. We then hit highway 69S in OK and went down to Texoma for a few more days. This was done pulling a 9K-5er. The truck was awesome in performance with the exeption of one thing, steering wander. My question, is there supposed to be some free play in the steering or not? My truck does not have any, and I was wondering if I backed out the adjustment screw on the steering box if it would increase backlash? Or does this adjustment have anything to do with backlash at all in the steering gearbox? I realize there was a TSB on this about a year ago, but I was curious as to the actual affects of this adjustment screw.
 
My truck felt like this too. I tightened up the set screw about 1/8 or so, but I think the main problem was the steering gear bearing pre-load. Take off the lower end of the steering shaft, slide it up out of the way, & take the lock ring loose, and look at the cap under it. Mine was backed out so loose, I turned in about 3/4 of a turn by hand. Took a small hammer & punch, and tapped it around until it was bottomed out on the worm gear, backed off slightly, put the lock ring & shaft back & was done. Maybe 15 minutes. Dodge will tell you you need a new steering gear! Anyway here's the TSB, look all the way to the end of it for pre-load adjustment..... DDG http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/TSB97/19-10-97/19_10_97.htm
 
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Mine wandered when I first got it, I checked the toe-in on the front wheels and they were toed out. I adjusted linkage so I now have toe-in and it drives much better, only tries to wander now if I hit a rut or uneven road. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Ranco 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, aluminum tool box, 100 gal. aux. fuel tank not mounted yet.
 
Originally posted by B. G. Smith:
... I adjusted linkage so I now have toe-in and it drives much better, only tries to wander now if I hit a rut or uneven road.

Brought my truck to SpringAlign today. Chuck drove it, checked it out and said it's as good as it's going to get. The steering components are tight (except for the new-ish OEM track bar, which does
show motion at the ball-n-socket joint).

He said the reason for all the motion is that the truck has coil springs. All the suspension components have rubber bushings, which allow for quite a bit of motion while providing a smooth-ish ride. If it had leaf springs, most of that motion would not be there.

He suggested I start now looking for replacement components that have, perhaps, brass bushings. He doesn't much like rubber or urethane bushings. Of course, metal bushing would transmit a lot more shock to the body, but the steering would be about as tight as it could ever get, without switching to leaf springs. He said I should expect the various components to be wearing out around 90K-100K miles.

In the meantime, I'll accept this 'characteristic' of the vehicle and enjoy the fine Cummins power!

Fest3er
 
TerryG -

I have a 2001 3500 and have not experienced any wander characteristics. I have a '95 1500 which does have some of that tendency so am familiar with what you describe. Again, my 3500 is tight and solid.

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'01 3500 QC SLT, 5-spd. , 3. 54 LSD, Tow Pkg, Camper Pkg, White w/ Camel. (St. Louis) - Mud flaps, diamond plate,
Jacobs E-brake, Gauge Works dual gauge pod, ISSPRO EGT & Boost Gauges. Cobra 75WXST & Firestik - - - Towing a 2000 Cedar Creek 30'camper. NRA Member & Proud of it!!!!

[This message has been edited by lembaar (edited 06-14-2000). ]
 
Terry,

I have an '01 which did the same. I test drove two trucks off the lot, both wandered. Only in a straight line, everywhere else was fine. I ended up adjusting my box, real easy to do. I even kept the tools in the console in case I wanted to readjust on the road and try. I haven't checked the bearing preload, because the adjustment fixed mine.

The wander can be caused by either too loose OR tight box. If it's too tight it will overadjust, requiring constant correction. I adjusted mine, because my dealer will only REPLACE the box, not adjust. Get the TSB and try to adjust it, if your not sure if it's loose/tight, adjust it a LITTLE and road test. You will know if it's getting better or worse. I can slide under the truck and adjust in under 2 minute. I use a ball end allen, and open end wrench, I don't remember the sizes offhand. I can look if you want. Hope this helps...

Dave

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2001 2500 ISB,4X4,QC,SB,AUTO,3. 55's,BLACK,AGATE LEATHER,SLT,every option except heated leather/4whl anti
 
Here's something I noticed with my '98 and a couple other Ram Diesel trucks. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth (truck doesn't have to be running)while you crawl under and look at the shaft coming out of the gearbox where the pittman arm is connected(pittman shaft). All the ones I've looked at have side motion on the shaft. It isn't a lot of movement, but it is more than I think there should be. I looked in the service manual and it appears that the shaft is supported by a Torrington- type bearing (straight rollers), so I don't think you could adjust any play out of there. I've looked at other vehicles with the same style gearbox and never noticed as much side play. I just wonder if someone got the tolerences a little on the loose side #ad
#ad
. I can't find a spec to tell what is allowed.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)
 
Anybody ever take one of these boxs apart? I did looks to me like there is to much clearance in the lower bearing. Top bearing is tight. I am thinking about buying the next size smaller bearing and machining the sector shaft down. First going to the junkyard to see if I can find a box for a 85 or so dodge to see if bearing and shaft will interchange. It uses the same steering box just reversed so it can be used on outside of frame. My pitman arm moves up and down 1/4 inch and if I can fix that I bet the wander goes away. Did I mention that this box is made by GENERAL MOTORS? Must be that great GM feeling. LOL If anyone knows someone that works for a rebuilder I bet parts can be bought to tighten this thing up. All I know is my older dodge pitman arm does not move up and down and the box looks the same just reversed. I took that box off of an 86 ramcharger. If this will work I think you can change the sector shaft without removing the whole box,looks to be enough room. Any machinists out there want to try to make a shaft sleeve?I may be able to get another new box to experiment on.
 
John we are thinking the same. You ought to try to explain this to a dealer mechanic. It uses a straight torrington bearing and I think the shaft is machined to small. When you tighten the adjuster down all you are doing is pushing the rack into the worm. The rack teeth have a taper in them so this takes all the free play out. Problem is the bottom of the shaft can still move. When you do the TSB you just push the shaft tight against the worm and cock it in the bearing. This stops left to right play but not front to back. This is why the dealer told me they can make it better but not perfect. If you keep adjusting the sector down then the steering wheel will not return and DC wants to put ball joints in. Anyway I think it can be fixed easy if someone is a machinist. Running the rack and worm this tight is not good for the life of this box,believe it or not my old steering box is adjusted out 1 1/2 turns from snug and does not wander, lower shaft is tight minor play like . 020. The new bow is adjusted out 1/12 turns from the factory bur I think they got that part right,just need to tighten up that bearing.
 
I'll see if I can come up with some answers on the tolerence between the shaft and bearing. Probably something that got screwed-up and continued to be mass-produced. I've seen some with so much slop, you'd think the seal would start to leak!!

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)
 
Personally I think GM is doing this intentionaly. Pretty sad when Benz built the finest steering boxs in the world. Maybe they will change it on the redesign,hopefuly sooner.
 
Just curious on where your truck was manufactured?

In another thread a while back, someone thought it might prove informative to identify where the units are built as perhaps helpful in identifying problems or trends.
 
Well I took an 86 box apart and a 2000 box apart and the sector shafts measure the same. Actually the new sector shaft is about . 001 bigger. Old box uses a torrington brand bearing new one uses one that says IND on it. But the big differance I could see was the way the teeth on the sector are made old has smaller teeth steep taper new has big teeth shallow taper. Going to a bearing supply to see if I can tighten up the bearing but I kind of doubt it. May need to talk to a box rebuilder to see what it needs to fix it. The old box has less teeth wear at 150000 than the new one does at 5000,I am thinking this new taper is the problem. It is actually shearing metal off of the worm nut.
 
DaveO

I can't thank you enough. I tried your adjustment and man what a difference. After a year of trying to get my dealer to try and fix my steering all I took was this little adjustment. Easy as pie. If any body else has tight steering and wander you have got to try this.
 
I have noted the excessive play in my truck's pitman arm shaft also. Ran it that way up to about 145,000 miles, then I started talking to AGR, which is in the business of remanufacturing steering boxes and pumps. They said they were aware of the problem with the Dodge steering box and were working on a fix. They said wait about 2 weeks and check back with them. I did, they now have rebuilt boxes for the Dodge application in stock and I have bought and installed one. I have no complaints with their workmanship, and it did improve the steering wander. To be fair, I must say that I also replaced the dreaded track bar and then later found a worn out tie rod end.

For those interested, AGR sells their boxes through Four Wheel Parts Wholesalers, among other places. I paid $332. 95 + $35. 00 core charge + shipping. www.4wheelparts.com

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Dean Jahnz
Black '94 dually (first on the block!), TST 230hp, Transgo shift kit, combo guage, 28' gooseneck camper/hauler, '83 Toyota extreme terrain 4x4.
My motto: The Most is Barely Enough!
 
duallydean I jst ordererd an agr steering box from 4 wheel parts. The box I got was the variable ratio box, they told my this would realy improve my driveability that the truck would not require a lot of steering wheel input. My truck has ony 31000 miles on it,the dealer has replaced the box at 17000 miles. the pitman shaft has a lot of side movement to it, also the pitman arm balljoint has a lot of in and out movement. I noticed this last week when I was under the truck ,I had my son turn the steering wheel with the engine on. The dealer tells my this is normal. Look at my reply under Borgsen steering shaft,Ive had nothing but problems with the stering of this truck from day one.
 
I was going to try the preload adjustment last night but couldn't get the steering shaft off. I could only slide it up about half an inch. That half inch showed me something interesting though. It looks as though the steering shaft was tight against the locknut. The bottom of the shaft was rough as though it had been rubbing the locknut. When I slid it back in place I tried to leave a space and think I was successful. That eliminated a little more of the tight feeling and smoothed it out some. You guys are right about that side to side shaft play. I noticed it when I tried to get the steering shaft off.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, PYRO/Boost Gauges
Real Backup Lights
 
I just replaced my track bar for the second time at 97,000 miles. This corrected my 'road wander' problem. The track bar seems to be very critical for steering control and any amount of play is amplified into steering wander. I remember seeing a post about a Moog track bar with a larger ball joint, but the one I just installed looked the same as oem (maybe my auto parts dealer substituted brand x). Also wish I could find one with poly bushings. I'm starting to think that track bar replacement every 50,000 miles should be part of regular maintence.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters, K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
 
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