Steering Wander

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Landshark I just replaced several frontend components including the trackbar. I replaced them with moog. The moog trackbar had the larger balljoint, but made no differance in drivability. Trackbar along with the other components still had slop in them. Try this for a test,have omeone turn the steringwheel right to left rapidly several times with the engine running and observe the amout of play your pitmanarm has and your new trackbar,you will be surprised to see how much play there is in these parts.

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Gregg Mig

 

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Dennis Garrett has supplied the correct answer to this problem. I have a 2000 2500 4X4, steered hard to right only and wandered right off the lot. DC changed the steering box, they love this proceedure... NOT ONE BIT OF DIFF. I removed the steering damper, fixed the hard steer to right, replaced with Monroe. Did the over the center adj about 5 months ago, no real diff. Finally tried the bearing pre-load two days ago, ITS FIXED. It now has very little to NO steering slop (wander) The proccedure is almost idiot proof, the steering shaft has a flat spot so it's real tough to mess up the steering wheel alignment. The truck is now much more fun to drive especially on small two lane roads and open highway.
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2000 2500, QC, SB, 4X4 AUTO, 3. 54 LSD, 275'S, KILLED THE SILENCER RING, PATRIOT BLUE, LINE-X OVER RAIL

[This message has been edited by Kevin Tiahrt (edited 06-26-2000). ]

 

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Still waiting for new frontend parts to come in. Last friday I test drove a phord f250 4x4 diesel 6 speed,what a difference in the way this truck steered felt very positive ,tight and precise. The engine on the other hand felt unresponsive,had a lot of turbo lag and did not like the way the truck shifted. After driving the truck I checked out the tierods and other steering components and boy what a difference in size there a least double in size than that of the dodge and get this they have absolutly no play in them what so ever. I had the salesman turn the sterring wheel while I was under the truck and the slightest steering wheel imput moved the wheels,thumbs up to phord. Saturday I drove a 2001 Ram 4x4 diesel auto,sure it felt tighter than my truck but still did not steer the way it should have. I had my son with me and had him turn the steering wheel while I observed some parts,the pitmanarm balljoint moved in and out just like my truck ,now this truck had only 12 miles on it. I also noticed the trackbar did the same thing. I am almost positive if DC could get the slop out of these parts alot of the divability problems could be solved. These trucks are to heavy for spring loaded balljoints.

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Gregg Mig

 

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I have a new 2001 QC 3500 4x4 that has a bad case of the wanders. It does also seem to have a hard time re-centering after a turn. I am guessing the adjustment screw is too tight? Is this correct? How do you know how far to adjust the bolt? I ahve taken the truck back tot dealer to correct, but I am afraid to get it back with no real difference in the wander.

 

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BigCarl64, If it is not centering, put the Allen wrench in the hole and hold it while you loosen the 5/8 locknut. The service manual says 1/8 turn at a time. It's your call as to how much you go. They recommend no more than 1/2 turn in either direction. You can check it without driving by cranking the vehicle with the steering straight ahead and then turning the steering wheel about 1/4 turn each direction to see if it tries to center itself. What I found is that when the adjustment is about right, it will return to center from each direction. Two tips: 1. An allen wrench on a 3/8 or 1/4 inch ratchet works best because you can "squeeze" the wrench and ratchet to break the locknut. 2. Be sure and snug the locknut down good or you will have power steering fluid dripping out. Don't ask me how I know about #2 #ad
. As my earlier post to this said, my steering shaft was binding on the locknut to the steering box which was causing a binding feeling as the wheel rotated.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, EGT/Boost Gauges
Real Backup Lights

 

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Mine is a bit different, a 2001 with no play or wander at all, mine is like this; when I mave the wheel to say switch lanes I have to move it just a very tiny bit. at first i thought the truck wandered but when I learned how to drive with very little input to the wheel it tracks straight now. It is over sensitive to steering wheel input, I'd have to put it tht way. when changing lanes on the highway for the first time oh boy!!! I went over 2 lanes. my Dad and girlfreind have both driven it and they wandered all over the road too until I told them to use very little input. now my question is which procedure do I need to do? I know I will have to do it myself one look at my big tires and the dealer is gonna sy that's what my problem is.

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BLACK BEAST: 2K1 QC, SWB, Auto, 4X4, 4. 10 LSD, SLT, Black, Camel leather, Tow pckg, nv241HD, cab lights, 2 inch daystar coil spacers, 35 inch Mickey thompson claws, bushwacker flares, rhino lined bed and rocker panels.

soon to come; DD stage 1's, boost module, possibly van aaken.

GREEN MACHINE: 93 Jeep Wrangler 4. 0L, T-18, 38X11 Boggers, Dana 44's, AtlasII T-case, ARB's, warn and moser shafts, Ramsey 5K winch... . NEEDS A DIESEL!!!!!!

 

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What is everybody using to tighten the bearing nut down on the steering boxes with or do you have a spanner wrench to fit? I got the lock nut and shaft off only to be stopped by the bearing nut as I don't have a spanner wrench and did not have time to try an make something to work. I am fighting the steering wander also. Had front end aligned along with new tie rod ends but not a track bar plus new tires and it still pulled to the right and have just gotten new 285's and now it pulls to the left and wanted to check out the steering box before I have it realigned again.

Thanks,
Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's

 

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Mine was so loose, I screwed it on in with my fingers. When it bottomed out, I took a small center punch & with the point in one of the spanner holes, carefully tapped it on around a little more until snug, then backed off about 1/4" as measured at the edge of the threads. That eliminated all but just a few thousands of the excess play in the gear for me..... DDG

 

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Tried the first step in the TSB fix - the over center adjustment. The steering wander is gone, but the overall steering is still not perfect.

I found that on my steering box, the adjuster screw had to be 'loosened' between 1/8 and 1/4 turn. After I found the correct position the following was tried. I started to tighten the screw 1/4 turn at a time and got steering wander all the way in. Then I went to the correct position and started turning the screw out by 1/4 turn - no steering wander but now free play in the wheel. The steering wander and free play have totally different feels when driving.
With the adjuster screw in the correct position, the truck no longer tries to change lanes by itself - it's 100% better.

The next project will be to tackle the bearing preload adjustment. Hope this helps


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Stan

2001 2500 SLT+ Quad Cab, 6 speed, ETH, 4X4, LWB, 3. 54 LSD Trailer Tow, Camper Special, 241HD, Tow Mirrors, Bright White, Line-X Bedliner, Putco Boss SS running boards, A. R. E. K Series Truck Cap, Reese Titan V Hitch, 2WD Low, DD 4" exhaust, BD exhaust brake, Isspro Boost and EGT gauges, Mag-Hytec rear cover with Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 synthetic

 

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I to did the over center adjustment. My truck now steers pretty good, but there is still something wrong with the steering. When I hit any kind of bump the steering wheel had a shimmy to it. I swear it feels like the axle is loose also. Any ideas on what this can be??? Thanks guys

 

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Just completed the Bearing Preload Adjustment (thanks for your help Kevin!).

My initial setting from the factory was approx. 9mm - the same as the spec. Next I set it to approx. 5mm but this made the steering too 'tight'. Backed off to 7mm and this seems to be the right number for my steering box. Except for a 'soft' feeling in the steering wheel while driving (don't know how else to explain it) there is no steering wander at all. Took a drive today and at 70MPH, the truck stayed in a straight line without having to move the wheel back and forth.

For those who will be doing the over-centerad and bearing preload adjustments here's some practical advice - do each a 'small' fraction of a turn at a time, they are both very sensitive to the single best position.

Just as a footnote to the bearing preload adjustment, after I did the first 30 minute position change, the next change only took about 5 minutes. To turn the nut from the top of the truck, I used a long rod with the bottom tip bent in - so seeing the original markings was easy, then with a hammer just tapped the rod to move the nut slightly.



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Stan

2001 2500 SLT+ Quad Cab, 6 speed, ETH, 4X4, LWB, 3. 54 LSD Trailer Tow, Camper Special, 241HD, Tow Mirrors, Bright White, Line-X Bedliner, Putco Boss SS running boards, A. R. E. K Series Truck Cap, Reese Titan V Hitch, 2WD Low, DD 4" exhaust, BD exhaust brake, Isspro Boost and EGT gauges, Mag-Hytec rear cover with Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 synthetic

 

[Archive]

I tried both these adjustments this week. Over-center seemed to help some (I did that first). I went a full turn in before I noticed the "sticky steering. I could turn the wheel slightly either direction and it would stay there, curving off the highway. Backed out a 1/4 -- better, backed out another 1/8th best yet. Overall 5/8 turn in from where I started and it's "better" but not great. You still have to pay attention when you're driving or she'll end up in another lane.

Now the bearing pre-load. I found a hardened pin in my junk drawer that just fits the spanner wrench hole. I can insert that and use the smooth shaft of a screwdriver between the pin and the center shaft and pry it around to tighten. (Be careful not to mess up the splines on the center shaft. ) Mine seemed to be set at just what the TSB called for. Since I didn't know what would happen, I just put it back together in about the same position it was before -- no surprise there was no difference.

My Question:
What's the symptom if the bearing pre-load is too tight? Does this just make it harder to turn the wheel? Does this have any effect on return-to-center?

Another question:
Has anyone played with the caster adjustment to change return-to-center?

 

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Kyle:
An alignment shop adjusted my caster, and it helped - for awhile. It gradually deteriorated again, and now it's worse than before. It wanders terribly, too. There's too much play in the wheel, and it won't come back to center on it's own. It's a real handful to drive. It's going back in to the dealer next week.

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Forest Green

 

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Kyle

If the bearing pre-load is too tight, the steering wheel becomes more difficult to turn and doesn't want to come back to the center by itself. When I did the 'too tight' adjustment, the end result was that it was more uncomfortable to drive than with just the steering wander - not to mention the strain it would put on the box. You might want to try turning in just 2mm like I did which did the trick. (If this is too much you'll know with the first drive).

I think it's amazing that so many of us have been working to 'minimize' a problem that DC is apparently unaware of - guess they have never driven one of their own trucks! I wonder what would happen if someone pursued steering wander with DC under the title of a 'Driveability Safety Concern'?

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Stan

2001 2500 SLT+ Quad Cab, 6 speed, ETH, 4X4, LWB, 3. 54 LSD Trailer Tow, Camper Special, 241HD, Tow Mirrors, Bright White, Line-X Bedliner, Putco Boss SS running boards, A. R. E. K Series Truck Cap, Reese Titan V Hitch, 2WD Low, DD 4" exhaust, BD exhaust brake, Isspro Boost and EGT gauges, Mag-Hytec rear cover with Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 synthetic

 

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ISB Rambo,

I talked to my dealer about it and he hid behind the fact that I had "oversized" tires on it. I'm running 285/75R16. He said that the larger tires would cause it to not return to center as well as with the stock size. -- maybe that's right, maybe it's not. Bottom line is that they are not going to respond to any steering complaints unless the truck is running stock tires. It was clear he wasn't budging on that one and I don't have any stock tires or wheels left so that's that for me.


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1999 24v, NV4500HD, QC, 4x4, 3. 54, 8' Bed w/ Rhino Lining, 285/75R16s on 16x8 Eagles, 2" Skyjacker front lift, Glasstite topper, Racor LFS

 

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I had my truck at the dealer today. They're stumped on my steering problem, so the service manager is talking to a DC tech about what they should do. I'm taking it on a trip next week, so it will be a couple of weeks before the next try at a solution. I'm glad the service manager is pursuing it and not blowing me off. He's been really good to work with so far.

 

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I did the preload and over center adjustment to my truck and there was a big improvement when finished. #ad
There still is play in the steering and by looking underneath the truck I can see it is from the side-to-side play in the pitman shaft. I still am having no luck with the factory trying to find out what the spec should be- maybe I'll talk to someone at AGR. Fireman Dave, if you haven't checked yours yet, have someone move the steering wheel back and forth and see if your pitman shaft has any side-to-side movement. I'd be curious to see what the dealer says if the play exists.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

[Archive]

I did the preload and over center adjustment to my truck and there was a big improvement when finished. #ad
There still is play in the steering and by looking underneath the truck I can see it is from the side-to-side play in the pitman shaft. I still am having no luck with the factory trying to find out what the spec should be- maybe I'll talk to someone at AGR. Fireman Dave, if you haven't checked yours yet, have someone move the steering wheel back and forth and see if your pitman shaft has any side-to-side movement. I'd be curious to see what the dealer says if the play exists.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

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And I cant find a bearing to tighten up the slop. My truck drives fine it just feels like the steering box is not hooked up for a second on a crowned road. Dealer wants to change balljoints even when I show them pitman moves. I said no thanks we do not need to add to the problem. I notice this 2000 has differant steering linkage than my 97 did I wonder if this makes the loose box feel worse. MB knows how to make a steering box maybe DC should talk to them instead of GM.

 

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I did the bearing preload adjustment yesterday and then the over center as recommended in the service manual. When I finally got the steering shaft off and the lock nut, I found the preload tight as possible. I loosened it, tightened it back snug, marked it and loosened up about 5mm. Without a spanner torque wrench to do the 25 ft/lb I had to guess. Redid the overcenter by the manual. Drives great now. Doesn't have that sudden "release and turn" feature. Whoever put that piece together needs his spanner tightened. If you are going to make these adjustments, follow the manual and do the worm gear preload first. My dealer did the overcenter first and it just masked the problem. It gave some improvement but didn't fix the problem completely. The final tip I got from the steering is that it was slow to center after a left turn and quick to center after a right turn. Now it centers evenly from both sides. What I was fighting going down the road was the steering trying to center a little to left of true center. It was actually binding.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, EGT/Boost Gauges, Running Boards,
Real Backup Lights