step bars

[CBrabec]

I'm wanting to get some steps bars for the truck so its easier for my wife and kids to get into the truck. I noticed the other day that there are factory drilled holes on the underside of the doors on a small lip, must be for a specific set the dealerships can put on. Does anyone have a part number or recommend an aftermarket set for my truck?

 

[carl07230]

Rancn Hand has come out with a step bar that moves the pad out from under the truck for better accesability. My wife had dealership chrome ones on her 1500 and hated them. We bought the Ranch Hands for her 2012 3/4 and they were a direct swap to the new 2015. They did sqeek when we had them installed so I cut up an old innertube and put a piece of rubber between the step rail bracket and the fram of the truck. Sqeeky gone!.

 

[Sticks]

Westin is another. IIRC just about all the aftermarket running board/nerf bar manufacturers have something out for our trucks.

Down side to the mounting to the sheet metal of the cab - you don't want to run over anything that will hit the boards. I just learned the hard way. Gotta pull both sides off, hammer the rivets back in (metal bowed) and reassemble.

 

[CThomsen]

I've got the NFAB adjust-step on my 13. The wife and kids really like them.

 

[MJWenrich]

Since you have a "95, I am not sure what the factory did on your truck but by third gen. '04 and the '14 had locations ready for crush nuts which came with the factory steps. The 14 steps are further out from the body than the 04 and are the widest part of the truck. Something you might want to know after you install depending on your choice of steps. I like the factory RAM bars but they are more expensive than the after market.

 

[CBrabec]

MJWenrich, the truck I'm referring to is my '14 3500 I just bought but haven't added it yet to my signature. Sorry for the confusion

 

[MJWenrich]

Roger that. I ordered the RAM steps and they came with the crush nuts and a tool to install them. You will need a second pair of hands (my wife supplied those) and be willing to crawl around a bit but they go on pretty easy. I was warned about the possibility of enlarging the crush nut hole by tightening them too much. The main problem I had was some of the holes in the body were too large to begin with and you have to keep the crush nut from turning while using the tool and tightening the bolt. Again, the wifey can help with a third hand. I heard someone say on this forum their bars were somewhat unstable but I have not had that problem. They look and fit well and as I mentioned protrude out a little more but that makes it easier to get my size 14's on them.

Mike

 

[Wingate]

^^^^^^^^ what he said!..
If you buy the Nfab stainless they are pretty much junk. They are not Nfabs but Smitty built in an NFAB box from China and flex excessively when u step up on them.
On the factory steps, if you purchase them, FOLLOW the instructions and use a torque wrench as instructed. The crush nuts going thru sheet metal need to be torqued properly, not hammed in with a cordless impact like many "professional installers" do.
I purchased the NFAB stainless cause I liked the look. Went to install and its just CHEAP. Pulled them out of the NFAB box and they had two stickers on them, "MADE IN CHINA" and SMITTYBILT" The wife is less than a buck and a quarter and they flexed like crazy when she stepped up on it. The NFAB guy suggested that i install a few extra self tapping screws!
I sent them back and ordered RAM. Not the look I wanted but function comes first!

 

[kmcdonough]

I have Raptor wheel-to-wheel bars on my 2011 CC. They use the factory holes. I like them but they are susceptible to rust if you don't keep them clean and/or waxed.

 

[sag2]

The Mopar bars may be more expensive than the aftermarket, but they are very good quality and do not flex. They are in a better position than earlier models.