Step by step how to convert a 1st gen Getrag to a NV5600 - Pics and text included

[RSchwarzli]

Well, it's done. The NV5600 is in the 1990, and only positive feedback from the truck and myself! I will state the question now that everyone is wondering: Is it worth it? Simply, yes. But I am not sure I would ever want to do another one!

Sorry about the long delay in posting this. As you will see, when I post something I like to do it right. To upload all the pics, type all the steps, copy part numbers and prices etc took 5 hours. But its up now! As long as this does not get lost in forum land maybe we will see some more 5600 conversions! (mods can we sticky this, post in the instructions section, or???? Thanks!)

Putting a 380 lbs transmission in place of a 175 lbs Getrag is not an easy feat. There is extensive modifications, and a lot of cost associated with it. If you are required to pay someone to do this, I would highly recommend going with a NV 4500 5 speed as It is a mostly bolt in conversion. If you don't mind taking the time, putting out the cost, and have the skills and tools to do it; then the 5600 will be worth your efforts.

For those that don't know, the NV5600 was Dodge's first 6 speed for the Cummins pickups. After the weak 1989-1993 G-360 5 speed Getrags were retired, they were replaced by the NV4500 5 speed trannys. Once 1999 came though, they introduced the NV5600 as the HD 6 speed variant. (Side note: If hunting for a 5600 for your truck, do note that the 1999 transmission had a smaller, weaker input shaft at 1. 125 vs the following years 1. 375” shaft. It is highly recommended you go with the larger shaft for better durability)

So to do this conversion, you will need the basic tools like ratchets, wrenches, impact gun, screw drivers, etc. Some of the other tools that will be helpful are:

- Plasma cutter or sawsall
- Die grinder
- Cutter/Grinder
- Long stroke jack/lifting device for body and engine
- Soldering iron
- 12 point 10 mm socket for starter (need to confirm this size)
- Angleometer
- Metric and Imperial socket sets
- Carbide drill bit set

As for items needed, you will need the following items. Please note I have included cost so that people can be aware of what the cost to do this conversion is.

SUPPLIER COST PART PART NUMBER

1 $4,054. 29 PARTS FROM BLUMENTHALS
NV 5600 4X4 UNIT NV5600
SHIFTER STALK MOPAR 52107612
SHIFT KNOB MOPAR 52104174
KNOB INSERT MOPAR 52108192
DODGE MOUNT (NOT USED IN THE END FROM 4500 I BELIEVE) MOPAR 52019641
RANDOM BLUMENTHAL RUBBER MOUNT (NOT USED)
PIVOT ASSY MOPAR 52087542
CLUTCH FORK MOPAR 52087515
BACKUP SWITCH (NOT USED IN THE END) 14014559
BACKUP SWITCH GASKET 89279
SHIFT LEVER BASE ASSY MOPAR 5086622AA

2 $325. 00 HD CLUTCH HYDRAULICS 2ND GEN
$0. 00 CLUTCH SBC CON FE 13. 375

3 $309. 00 DRIVESHAFT LENGTH CHANGE FRONT AND REAR CUSTOM

4 $35. 31 CLUTCH PIVOT BALL PARTS
SPRING MOPAR 04338855
WASHER MOPAR 06022190
PIVOT MOPAR 52087542

5 $139. 49 transmission OIL 5 GAL PAIL SYNCROMESH OIL-STORE. COM

6 $25 24" 4" STAINLESS PIPE FOR EXHAUST STEEL SUPPLIER

7 $50. 00 RANDOM FASTENERS FROM HARDWARE STORE
10X HEY CAP GR 8 3/8-16 1-3/4' L BELLHOUSING
10X ZIP WASHER 3/8' (7/8 OD X . 141 THICK) BELLHOUSING
2X 5/8 FINE THREAD X 4. 5" LONG GR8 transmission MOUNT
2X 5/8 FINE THREAD LOCK NUTS AND WASHERS transmission MOUNT

8 $113. 00 ENGINE ADAPTER PLATE FROM 1994-2002 LOCAL DIESEL SHOP

9 $175. 00 POLY BUSHINGS ENGINE POLY MOUNTS POLYBUSHING. COM
ENGINE MOUNTS
TRANS/205 MOUNTS

10 $77. 98 CLUTCH TIMKEN THROW OUT BEARNING TIM 614114

11 $316. 40 STARTER FOR 94+ 12V NAPA 4N-6428

12 $224. 02 ACC MATS CARPET DOVE GRAY WITH MASS BACKING 1526-90

13 $33. 88 75/90 SYNTHETIC T CASE OIL

TOTAL $5,878. 37




So with that now covered, let's get into the conversion!

 

[RSchwarzli]

1 - Chose a shady spot

The very first thing you will want to do is put the vehicle in the location you're going to want to do this in. Ideally a hoist would be best, but it can be done on the ground. Just makes it much more difficult! Also make sure you have all the parts you need!



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2 - Gut it!


Next up, remove seat, carpet, and any sound deadener that will prevent you from accessing the floor. Also bungee cord the clutch pedal to the steering wheel so it cannot depress to the floor when you release the pressure in the hydraulic line when you remove the slave from the clutch/bellhousing.


3 - Rip it apart!


Once the interior is stripped, time to remove things. First DISCONNECT BATTERY! Then the getrag shifter through the inside of the truck, driveshafts, 4wd shifters, NP205 Transfer Case, clutch slave, transmission, transmission crossmember (upper and lower arms), bellhousing, clutch, starter, engine adapter plate, exhaust (downpipe back), and for good measure, will also need to remove the clutch hydraulics from the area.

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Gives a good view of the size difference between the two:


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5 - Rear main



I am making this its own step as it is so important. Inspect your rear main seal for signs of leakage! It is a common problem on these older engines so take the time while you are here and inspect and maybe even replace! In my case, I replaced it two years ago so I will skip this step but it took 15 min and was only like $50. 00 to do! It will save you a lot of headache down the road! Also inspect for signs of coolant leaking down from the head gasket just to be safe.


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[RSchwarzli]

6 - Let's get started


Education time! 1st gen (1989-1993) and 2nd gen (1994-1998) 12V starters are NOT the same! You will be required to change starters and here is why.

The engine adapter plate for the 1st and 2nd gen 12Vs are different. The 1st gen trannies have a much shorter input shaft and thus don't require a thick plate. So as the plate has to be changed, the starter now needs to be changes as the bolt pattern to mount the starter to the plate is different. The starter looks identical minus the clocked location of the wiring, but those observant will notice the bolt pattern.


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Step 7 - Engine mounts

This step is semi optional. You do not HAVE to do it, but I highly recommend you do it. The rubber in our engine mounts is over 20 years old and will start to become a fail point as the rubber will start to let go. Now that I have changed them I can see how much flex my engine had! Way more than I thought! In my case, I went polyurethane as I wanted a more ridged mount. Please not the downside is you feel more vibration through the body. A visual of this is the fact you can no longer ID the type of vehicle behind you at the stoplight as the mirror vibrate. Now if you want factory feel, Dodge still has OEM original mounts available should you prefer to go that route. Either way, this is the time to change them!


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To do this, I jacked off the front lip of the block by the oil pan. Take your time and keep your fingers out of the pinch points!

Step 8 - Drilling


The next step is to relocate the transmission crossmember. The crossmember will need to move back 7” total from current location. What I found best it to measure the new holes off the existing holes as the crossmember holes are not all the same location! In other words, don't mark the first hole 7” further back and then measure 1. 5” off of that for the other holes. Make sure you measure 7” off EACH hole to allow it to correspond to its new location.

Also be mindful, you will want a carbide bit as the frames are high strength steel and will dull a normal drill bit very quickly. My advice is to center punch the location of the holes, then drill the hole ¼”, and keep working your way up to ½”. You will need at min an 8” long drill bit to be able to mark and then drill the upper holes. Also be sure to put a steel plate between the frame rail and the floor so you don't drill through the floor when you break through the rail.



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Step 9 - Lets make the truck lighter!


So this step is a time consuming one. You will need to cut the trans tunnel pinch weld for clearance of the engine adapter plate and bellhousing. Do allow for some engine flex so you will want an extra 1” around the area so you do not make contact with the body under high torque conditions. Also, do be sure to cover the rear of the engine against metal chips! You don't want to pull this all apart later from a part failure from it!
As a side note, I used a small cutoff wheel on a grinder to start, then moved into a jigsaw, saws all, and then used a die grinder to carve the small details finishing with a mini air driven belt sander for final cleanup. Be sure to prime and paint the area after to stop moisture and rust from attacking your truck!


Also when cutting, try not to take all of the pinch weld off. Some is needed for strength!


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[RSchwarzli]

Step 10 - Put some parts back on!


Now that the engine adapter plate fits, pull it off, clean everything up from the grindings, ensure the mounting surface for the adapter plate is clean, and bolt it on!


You can also install your starter at this time. My personal suggestion is to bolt the starter to the adapter plate prior to installing the plate. Makes it much easier! Do not connect wiring at this time.

Side note. Chances are the fuel lines will be in the way of the starter. They will need to be GENTLY bent out of the way to allow clearance for the new starter in its new location. As a second side note, if you collapse the fuel line slightly you will restrict fuel under WOT. If you notice after all of this that your boost is low, you may have crushed your fuel line. If that is the case you will need to replace that section, like I did!

I lost 3 psi fuel pressure and 6 PSI boost. My pyro confirmed this all as it was now 200 F lower than usual under WOT.

Step 11 - Cut some more holes!


Now comes the scary part. Cutting the trans tunnel!


Your shifter hole in the floor will be moving back a bit too. The 4wd shifter hole will not be though so don't cut it!

I hope this template makes sense. The outline is where the hole will be.


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So that is 2” in from the 4wd hole
6” in from that line (by in I mean toward the driver's side)
And the hole will be 7. 5” long
Center of hole will be 16” from mount surface of engine adapter plate.


Do note, my truck was originally a 727 automatic that I converted to a getrag! Do not use my original shifter holes as a point of reference!


Also, I would suggest cutting a smaller hole in the floor for now so that the center shifter tower that's on the 5600 can fit through it. Then you can do final centering of hole location after. So off the center mark, go 2. 5” circle around it. That should cover you for the tower clearance.


Step 12 - Give me a pizza plate!


Next, install your clutch. In my case, I was able to get a low mileage South Bend Con FE from a relative as he had converted to a SBC Dual Disk. If getting a used one, make 100% sure it is in good condition!! Most times a used clutch is a bad idea!


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Step 13 - Gimme some lift!


Next will be the removal of the old bolts off the top of the frame rail so they don't rattle. I found about a ½” between floor boards and frame rail (just enough to clear the bolt head) so I needed to lift the body so they could be pulled.
Unbolt the rear cab mounts for this step and SLOWLY lift JUST ENOUGH to get the bolts out. The key here is to not lift too much as the front mounts and rad core mounts are all still attached. If you force it too much, you could bend components or even crack paint from body panel flex. Once done remember to re torque the bolts!!!


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Step 14 - The big beefy momma


Ah yes. The 5600. The first time you get the transmission close to the transmission tunnel you will see just how big this transmission is! I removed it 4-5 times finding all sorts of things in the way. To save you the trouble, trim these areas:
Note: The exhaust side ear can stay depending on how your exhaust is done. Mine could not in the end.



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Also before install, be sure to swap the backup light sensors as they will be different style connectors to what the first gens had.



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[RSchwarzli]

Step 15 - The small stuff


This one is easy to forget with all of the measure so I made it its own step! Don't forget to install all of the small clutch parts! If a used transmission, be sure to install a new pivot ball and throw out bearing at minimum! These are wear items!


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Step 16 - Wrestling time!



With the transmission now prepped, and the clutch in, it's time to wrestle the pig into the truck! Two points:


1 - NEVER use the bolts to “pull” the transmission into the clutch. Always “feel” it in. If there is resistance, you may be hitting the pilot bearing and if you pull the transmission in by the bolts, you could actually have the input shaft nose press the bearing out the other side of the flywheel! So for sure, feel it in. Rocking it side to side while pushing does help.


2 - If you use 6x 3/8 course bolts that are about 3” long with the hex sawed off the end, you can screw them into the adapter plates screw holes and essentially use them as an alignment tool. Don't rest the transmission weight on them as the leverage of the 3” long bolt on a aluminum adapter plate wont end well, but it will still give you a guide vs going in free hand.

One in, remove guide bolts and bolt the transmission in.


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Step 17 - Fabrication!



Now comes the fun part. No one makes a mount for the transmission to the first gen crossmember. After trying the factory one with mods, a custom built one with bushings above the plate and into the transmission; I decided this way was best.

This is what the factory unit looks like.

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The old, tired bushings are on the right. The new ones are on the left.


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I ended up making this plate out of ½” hot rolled steel so it would have the strength I needed. My slope was 3 deg so I went with a plate, sliced it into almost 3 pieces (left ½” material uncut so it was still 1 piece), bent it to a 3 deg slope, then welded it back solid.



This was plan 2. All was reused except the plate was changed to allow for the 3 deg slope to be absorbed by it and not the bushings.



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And the new plate:


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New aluminum bushings being made:


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Again, not the way it has to be done, but the way I did it. In my application, I had 2. 5” between the crossmember and the bottom of the new plate. That put me to correct slope for my driveshaft angle. Everyone will be a slight bit different so do some measuring.

Step 18 - NP 205 mount


Once transmission mount is complete, you can reinstall the NP205. One thing to note though is the rear main seal of the 5600 will need to be pulled. You could machine down the collar, but I would rather have the strength than the seal as the liquid cant go far! So out comes the seal…. This will allow the liquid to fill the 205s front sump.


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Step 19 - More cutting


Now that the transmission is mounted solid, you can see the location of the shift tower. Now its time to fine tune the hole for the shift boot. Also time to cover the old hole where the old getrag shifter came through the floor. In my case, I applied RTV to the bottom of a galvanized piece of sheet metal, then riveted in place. My welding skills are still developing so I felt this would be best for my application.


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[RSchwarzli]

Step 20 - Interior


Next step is to reassemble the interior. Now as the shift hole has changed, you will require some new carpet. You can make the old work, but for the sake of $200 and your truck likely needing new carpet as it is 20 years old, do your truck a favor and put new stuff in. It will make the truck smell new inside too!


Also if ordering carpet, I highly recommend some mass backing and some sound deadener. Makes it super quiet (well, for what the truck is! LOL)


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I think I killed a chia pet or something along those lines!

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And if you went this far, let's make the side sills look purdy again!


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Step 21 - Gimme some traction!

Ah. The 4wd shifters!


Now, when out on the bench this is the easiest. I started there and finished with the transmission in the truck.

There are two ways to do the 4wd shifter. The factory way would just need you to lengthen the shift rod a few inches and make the transmission bracket as the original shift bracket wont fit on a 5600.

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The other is the direction I went.


The NP205 is a dual shift, 3 position, manual gear drive transfer case. When you shift the lever, there is actually a total of 6 positions that the transfer case can be in. Due to the nature of the 205s design, you can actually manually shift each rail independently of each other. This allows a 2 low feature instead of just 4 low.


The 6 positions are as follows:

Drivers side (inner rail) operates range. Its positions are high, neutral, and low. When shift rail is pushed in, this is low. When pulled out, it is high. Central is neutral.

Passenger side (outer rail) operated 4wd. Its positions are 4 low, neutral, 4 high. When shift rail is pushed in, it's in low. When pulled out, it is in high. Central is neutral.


To fabricate these shifters is literally trial and error. The shifter themselves are fairly easy to make as are the bushings. The rails themselves need to be fine tuned to clear exhaust, wiring, and sensors. Also you need to be mindful rod length determines the throw of the shifter handle (aka top) so if you want throw further to the dash or further to the seat, that needs to be part of your trial and error.


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I had started off with the rod being adjustable, but it was too hokey and weak for my likings in the end. Not to mention the turnbuckle used in this application is not up to my quality standards.


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For the interior, you will now need two shift boots. A trip to the junk yard will help this.


You then take the two boots, stick it into the same ring with each boot only being half riveted in, stable or sew the center sections together, and then have two shifter boots in the same ring!
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For the handles, I used the factory handle and made the second one as a clone of the first. Bushings I made out of nylon. The shifters will need a bit of a curve put into them to get them to line up with the floor hole but nothing too major. One thing to remember, when bending the factory handle, it is hardened steel. You will need to heat it till it glows before bending it or the metal will crack.


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Step 22 - Drive shafts


Drive shafts will need to be longer on the front and shorter on the rear. Measure between yoke centers and use this as the measurement for the drive shaft shop. It is not recommended you cut and weld your won as the shaft shops have a balancing machine to ensure you won't have a vibration. Once they are finished, install.


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Step 23 - Exhaust


Now, your exhaust will be an issue as the transfer case bend in the pipe will be forward 7”. So cut a section out of the strait area and weld in a section of same diameter and material pipe and everything will line up on the front. On the rear half, you may need to cut a 7” section out now (depending on exhaust set up).


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Step 24 - Slippery!


Now is a great time to fill all the fluids! Remember that the 5600 will take more fluid now than book spec! I estimated about 7. 5 QT and took it for a loop around the block so it would fill the rear 205 sump. When I got back I removed the upper PTO cover bolt and filled till liquid came out of there.


Also remember the 5600 requires Pennzoil Syncomesh fluid only! You can buy the Dodge version, or the Pennzoil one with their name on it. Same stuff.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Step 25 - Give me some spark!


Next is wiring. Yay! Everyone's favorite part! And if not done right, your electronics wont work!

First, connect the starter.

Second, you will need to lengthen your speedo sender wire in certain applications (in my case as I have a Gear vendors unit).


Step 26 - Almost there!


Next, seat and install shifters!

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Step 27 - Reinstall the clutch hydraulics.

In my case, I decided to get a new one from South Bend Clutch as I felt the 20+ year old hydraulics system would eventually be a point of failure, but that is your call. To second this choice was the fact that the slave is inserted from the opposite side of the bellhousing vs the Getrag bell. As I did not want to get into heating and bending the fragile plastic factory hydraulic lines, this seemed smart.

If you order one from SBC, you will need to swap the reservoir off the new one to what you have on the old one as SBC only offers a 2nd gen version, and minus pulling an adapter off the master and swapping the reservoir, it is a 1stgen unit.

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Step 28 - The small stuff


Reconnect battery, connect wiring under the truck for all sensors, remove bungee cord from pedal, ensure all fluids are filled, and double check all bolts and nuts.

Now the skid plate that is left over you wont be able to use again as it will be too short.

As for the crossmember, on the reg cabs you will need to install it backwards (left on the right side) and it will sit at an angle but still better to have the extra support there. For club cabs, you should have the length to leave it stock.


Now it should look like this!


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[HHhuntitall]

Man!!! What a chore!!! I like how it turned out, so far!!! I'm gonna get on to you about the twin stick shifter :-laf... ... know anyone with a stencil machine?? It's GOTTA have the shift pattern!!! Someone may get lost some day!!! You can get the blank aluminum shifter knobs from AEV or Summit Racing, and have it engraved... ... I bet you can even make one, with that lathe you got!!! :shopenvy:



Also, there are many double boots available for the Atlas T-cases that work great for this twin stick conversion on the 205... . Not that yours looks bad, or anything, just sayin'... . These guys have the shifter boots, bolts, and twin stick shifters... ... . not as much fun as your was to make, I'm sure!!! http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-11590-twin-stick-shifter-boot.html



I can see a carjacker jump in your truck!! He'll still be staring at the shifters when the cops drag him out 20 minutes later!!! HA!!! :-laf You gotta put the shift pattern in there!! If you keep this truck long enough, what are you gonna do when you get alzhiemer's?!?!?!?



One question though..... you reversed the crossmember... . is that due to the hump in the frame? What's up with that?

 

[Dieseldemon]

Very nice job thanks for sharing

 

[NIsaacs]

Wow, what an awesome, detailed, first class project!! I can't think of anything to say!! I am speachless... . Thanks!!



Nick

 

[RSchwarzli]

Man!!! What a chore!!! I like how it turned out, so far!!! I'm gonna get on to you about the twin stick shifter :-laf... ... know anyone with a stencil machine?? It's GOTTA have the shift pattern!!! Someone may get lost some day!!! You can get the blank aluminum shifter knobs from AEV or Summit Racing, and have it engraved... ... I bet you can even make one, with that lathe you got!!! :shopenvy:

Also, there are many double boots available for the Atlas T-cases that work great for this twin stick conversion on the 205... . Not that yours looks bad, or anything, just sayin'... . These guys have the shifter boots, bolts, and twin stick shifters... ... . not as much fun as your was to make, I'm sure!!! http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-11590-twin-stick-shifter-boot.html

I can see a carjacker jump in your truck!! He'll still be staring at the shifters when the cops drag him out 20 minutes later!!! HA!!! :-laf You gotta put the shift pattern in there!! If you keep this truck long enough, what are you gonna do when you get alzhiemer's?!?!?!?

One question though..... you reversed the crossmember... . is that due to the hump in the frame? What's up with that?

First off, good call! LOL Forgot to mention the shift knob. I put the last parts on 20 min before I had to make a 500 mile drive! LOL Did not get a chance to CNC a shift ball. That is still coming! Good catch HH!

As for the crossmember, if you left it normal, the T case now hits it as the member did not move but the t case got closer to it by 7" and thus touched.

Wow, what an awesome, detailed, first class project!! I can't think of anything to say!! I am speachless... . Thanks!!

Nick

Thanks Nick!

 

[GHarman]

BSchwarzli,

WOW! What a job!

Congratulations on your craftsmanship and thanks a million times for posting this!

This should definitely be a sticky!

GregH

 

[RSchwarzli]

Lol. Thanks Greg.

Also forgot to mention in all that. Time to do this took 105 man hours start to finish. That does not include the other stuff I was doing like e brake cables, etc.

 

[ENafziger]

Wow... just wow! Great job. Twin sticking was a great idea!

What are your driving impressions? Did it reduce the rattle/vibration/1st gen feel? Maybe hard to tell after going to your poly mounts at the same time. Do you start off in 2nd running empty? I take it that the 205 was just a direct bolt up other than the shifter mods?

Looks great...

--Eric

 

[Grey Wolf]

Classy job Bob, I wouldn't expect anything less from you

 

[RSchwarzli]

Wow... just wow! Great job. Twin sticking was a great idea!

What are your driving impressions? Did it reduce the rattle/vibration/1st gen feel? Maybe hard to tell after going to your poly mounts at the same time. Do you start off in 2nd running empty? I take it that the 205 was just a direct bolt up other than the shifter mods?

Looks great...

--Eric

Driving impressions:

LOVE it! The High low range is beyond what I expected. I tried it with a 7K lbs trailer and there was no lugging! Getting use to shifting low to high on the non syncro 205 but getting there.

Vibration. Hehe. Yeah... ... Poly mounts are not the way to go if you are worried about that. Its harsh! (I love it! )

No, i start out in first. I have 3. 07s so if empty, I ignore low range and start out in regular gear 1. If towing, low range 1.

Yes. 205 bolted right on!

Classy job Bob, I wouldn't expect anything less from you

LOL. Thanks!

 

[RSchwarzli]

And a few more pictures here of the 1990.

Lets see what I have here.....

When I forst got the truck..... note no stacks..... This was in 2003. Wheels were rusty so sandblasted and painted.

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Before the wheels changed:

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Ooh! Back when it was still a 727... .

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Well, not anymore... . Hello Getrag... .

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First set of stacks that were ugly skinny and angled..... young and dumb I guess! LOL

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The first 1st gen Cummins truck ever built beside mine.

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Yes, this truck has seen winter. Every year. And no rust!

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Tire and wheel change!

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And the 1990's interior as it sits now. And a few pics I thought should be added as I left them out before of the dual shift boot. Yes, the top will be sewn to match the other. Was cut as the stick is thicker in the base compared to the 4wd shifter.

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[ENafziger]

Oh wow... so I didn't realize that you put a full size shifter on the 205 when you doubled it. So, you're actually using it as an underdrive unit in 2wd? Can you shift from low range high without grinding?

... and time change the sig on the '90 now

 

[NIsaacs]

Driving impressions:

LOVE it! The High low range is beyond what I expected. I tried it with a 7K lbs trailer and there was no lugging! Getting use to shifting low to high on the non syncro 205 but getting there.

No, i start out in first. I have 3. 07s so if empty, I ignore low range and start out in regular gear 1. If towing, low range 1.




Try using 2nd low range (6. 76) to start loaded, then split back to 1st, high range (5. 63) save 1st low (11. 26) for special occasions

You will have to shift them both (sticks) at the same time to accomplish the split, like a big rig. From 2nd low, pull both sticks into neutral, then shift into first gear first (syncro) then high range. It all has to be done quickly:-laf

Nick

 

[RSchwarzli]

Oh wow... so I didn't realize that you put a full size shifter on the 205 when you doubled it. So, you're actually using it as an underdrive unit in 2wd? Can you shift from low range high without grinding?

... and time change the sig on the '90 now

Oh yes. Full size! You know me! I dont do things small! And yes, works like a semi. And yes, I managed to do 1 perfect shift no bump or grind. Now I just need practice.

Ooh! Good call! Will edit the sig.

Driving impressions:

LOVE it! The High low range is beyond what I expected. I tried it with a 7K lbs trailer and there was no lugging! Getting use to shifting low to high on the non syncro 205 but getting there.

No, i start out in first. I have 3. 07s so if empty, I ignore low range and start out in regular gear 1. If towing, low range 1.




Try using 2nd low range (6. 76) to start loaded, then split back to 1st, high range (5. 63) save 1st low (11. 26) for special occasions

You will have to shift them both (sticks) at the same time to accomplish the split, like a big rig. From 2nd low, pull both sticks into neutral, then shift into first gear first (syncro) then high range. It all has to be done quickly:-laf

Nick

Nick,

That is exactly how you have to shift. No clutch. Just hold rpm, slide both to N, etc. And very quickly. If you lose the momentum, youre coming to a full stop to get it back into gear on the 205! (have had to do that twice so far! )