Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
All I can say is WHEW! I'm glad that's over.
The install went fine on my '99 QC SB 4x4. Thanks to Steve for being by the phone to make sure that we got the answers we needed to install these without too many problems.
As far as how to do the install, it's pretty straightforward. But you must be meticulous with measurements and fit up. My advice is to fit up everything with clamps first then tack weld the tabs onto the axle. Then fit everything up again and finish with the front mount. Then adjust and you're done. Should be simple. But that's not how it goes.
#ad
These are the rear tab welds after they are done. When we got them they were the same size. So a little creative modification to the tabs was needed. My understanding is that this is needed with all the kits. I chose to grind 3/16th" off the one tab to set the bolt level with the axle. You can also accomplish the same by lifting the outboard tab and filling in the void with weld. We also were unable to set the tabs at 90 degrees to the floor due to spce restrictions. We were able to set the tabs at 90 degrees to the axle thought which turned out to be ~80 to the floor. This seemed acceptable to us. A word of advice, use a small tip welder. We had a really hard time getting welds down in between those tabs due to the space resticions. Don't worry too much about warping the axle tubes. We would weld a little and stop. When we would check the tube, it was warm but not hot. The tabs would get hot, but the tube was fine. I don't mean pour the coals to it, but if you're careful you shouldn't have any problems with welding on the axle tubes. You can also see the proximity to other components there. Tack the tabs in place WITH THE HARDWARE ON. Then slide the bolt out as far as you can and remove as much hardware as you can. Steve told me to set the angle of the bars at 9 degrees. When I talked to the gentleman who designed the things he said you should match the angle of the driveshaft. When I did this it was 8. 5 degrees. This tells me that the number angle is not so important as it is to match the angle of the bars to the angle of the driveshaft when the truck is unloaded and level. I took these measurements about 20 times to make sure everything is kosher. I don't think I varied by more than 1/2 degree. It is really tricky.
#ad
This is the front mount. On a SB QC you will find that you can put the mount no where else than between the front spring mount and the body mount. Steve has ground them to fit, but more griding may be needed. The passenger side was easier than the driver side because you can reach behind the frame rail. The driver side has the fuel tank RIGHT behind the frame. So when drilling the frame I recommend sliding a piece of metal tubing around the drill bit so that only 1/2" of the bit sticks out. That way when the bit goes through it doesn't hit the tank or the fuel lines on the other side. That would suck. Just the driver's side took me almost 2 hrs to mount.
#ad
Once they are mounted, you will have to cut the front bolt on the spring pack. If you don't, when you hit a good size bump, you will bend the bars. And that would suck too.
#ad
Here's what they look like when they are done. Don't forget to install Steve's safety straps. I don't really think you'd need them but... You need to adjust them so that they are under slight tension to no tension. Then lock them down. No problemo.
#ad
From the outside, this is what they look like. And as far as performance goes, they do everything Steve says they do. It gives a little stiffer ride, but not harsh. It actually takes some of the harshness out of the ride. And seem to give a more sure feel to the truck as it drives.
My final comments. If you are going to do this yourself, be prepared for some frustration. It's not really the kit, it's fitting it to the truck that's hard. If possible take the truck to a shop and have it done. That's the easiest. But make sure they know what they are doing. They can really screw things up if they aren't careful. If anyone has any questions, let me know. I will be on vacation for the 4th (I need it after this) and won't answer until after I get back, but I will answer your questions. Hope this helps you guys make an informed decision on adding ladder bars to your trucks. Thanks again Steve!
The install went fine on my '99 QC SB 4x4. Thanks to Steve for being by the phone to make sure that we got the answers we needed to install these without too many problems.
As far as how to do the install, it's pretty straightforward. But you must be meticulous with measurements and fit up. My advice is to fit up everything with clamps first then tack weld the tabs onto the axle. Then fit everything up again and finish with the front mount. Then adjust and you're done. Should be simple. But that's not how it goes.
#adThese are the rear tab welds after they are done. When we got them they were the same size. So a little creative modification to the tabs was needed. My understanding is that this is needed with all the kits. I chose to grind 3/16th" off the one tab to set the bolt level with the axle. You can also accomplish the same by lifting the outboard tab and filling in the void with weld. We also were unable to set the tabs at 90 degrees to the floor due to spce restrictions. We were able to set the tabs at 90 degrees to the axle thought which turned out to be ~80 to the floor. This seemed acceptable to us. A word of advice, use a small tip welder. We had a really hard time getting welds down in between those tabs due to the space resticions. Don't worry too much about warping the axle tubes. We would weld a little and stop. When we would check the tube, it was warm but not hot. The tabs would get hot, but the tube was fine. I don't mean pour the coals to it, but if you're careful you shouldn't have any problems with welding on the axle tubes. You can also see the proximity to other components there. Tack the tabs in place WITH THE HARDWARE ON. Then slide the bolt out as far as you can and remove as much hardware as you can. Steve told me to set the angle of the bars at 9 degrees. When I talked to the gentleman who designed the things he said you should match the angle of the driveshaft. When I did this it was 8. 5 degrees. This tells me that the number angle is not so important as it is to match the angle of the bars to the angle of the driveshaft when the truck is unloaded and level. I took these measurements about 20 times to make sure everything is kosher. I don't think I varied by more than 1/2 degree. It is really tricky.
#adThis is the front mount. On a SB QC you will find that you can put the mount no where else than between the front spring mount and the body mount. Steve has ground them to fit, but more griding may be needed. The passenger side was easier than the driver side because you can reach behind the frame rail. The driver side has the fuel tank RIGHT behind the frame. So when drilling the frame I recommend sliding a piece of metal tubing around the drill bit so that only 1/2" of the bit sticks out. That way when the bit goes through it doesn't hit the tank or the fuel lines on the other side. That would suck. Just the driver's side took me almost 2 hrs to mount.
#adOnce they are mounted, you will have to cut the front bolt on the spring pack. If you don't, when you hit a good size bump, you will bend the bars. And that would suck too.
#adHere's what they look like when they are done. Don't forget to install Steve's safety straps. I don't really think you'd need them but... You need to adjust them so that they are under slight tension to no tension. Then lock them down. No problemo.
#adFrom the outside, this is what they look like. And as far as performance goes, they do everything Steve says they do. It gives a little stiffer ride, but not harsh. It actually takes some of the harshness out of the ride. And seem to give a more sure feel to the truck as it drives.
My final comments. If you are going to do this yourself, be prepared for some frustration. It's not really the kit, it's fitting it to the truck that's hard. If possible take the truck to a shop and have it done. That's the easiest. But make sure they know what they are doing. They can really screw things up if they aren't careful. If anyone has any questions, let me know. I will be on vacation for the 4th (I need it after this) and won't answer until after I get back, but I will answer your questions. Hope this helps you guys make an informed decision on adding ladder bars to your trucks. Thanks again Steve!
