Stewart warner fuel pressure gauge install

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I installed a Stewart warner electric fuel pressure gauge with dual senders before and after the filter yesterday. I made a small custom bracket out of aluminum that's sandwiched between two existing brackets under the hood. The senders are plumbed into my prime loc but could have been put into the test ports on the top of the fuel filter head. All you have to do is run 2 18 gauge wire's into the cab and run them to a switch and then to the gauge. It was an easy install and I now know that my lift pump is dead - replacing it Sunday! If anyone has questions on it let me know I'll do what I can to help.

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 Quad Cab Long Bed (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc remote fuel filter, boost & pyro gauges, muffler eliminator, 5" chrome tip, BD Exhaust Brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Permatech spray in liner, Grizzly stainless nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, Front Draw-Tite receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 06-23-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 07-17-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 08-30-2000). ]

 

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I'm startin to get worried about my lift pump. I need to get it checked.

Don

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"The Shadow" 2001 Dodge Ram SLT 2500 QC 5spd 3. 55lsd, Short Bed, Sport, Black, Camel/Tan Interior, Trailer tow package, Camper package, Infinity sound, VanAakan CPC, DD Boost Module and Elbow, Pacbrake. Towing a 27ft Dutchman 5th wheel w/slide.

Member Great Lakes TDR

NRA Member.

 

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Steve, please let us know what pressures you get with the new lift pump on idle, cruise and full power, before and after the filter.

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Keith
'99 24v 2500 QC 4X4 AT 3. 54

 

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Also the old presures that made you want to replace the lift pump.

 

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Where can I buy or order one from? Running a Power Edge has me wondering about my fuel pressure, and I'd like one anyway as a safeguard against leaving a clogged filter in there too long without knowing it...

 

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I bought the gauge and sender's through XK's Unlimited - http://www.xks.com/ - a jaguar place!! #ad
They had the best prices I could find. I bought the track force gauges because they match the closest to my DiPricol boost and pyro - the page they are on is here http://www.xks.com/SW%20Pages/swgaug11.html . The gauge I bought is the SW-82868-P which is a 2 1/16" 0-16 psi electric gauge with a black bezel. The sender's were the 82504-F . They also have many other options on there for other style gauges. As far as I know the fuel lines can be run into the test ports on the top of the fuel filter housing (at least on my 98. 5 they could - although I ran mine to my prime-loc, it was a smoother install). For the lines I just used brass barbs with 1/4" lines
and hose clamps.

I will be putting the lift pump on tomorrow morning, I was going to do it last night but after 5 hours of sitting the engine was still hot and I want to do this when it's completely cold. The pressures I have right now are 7-8 psi at startup and idle (idle after driving is down around 4 psi) and under ANY acceleration it goes to 0!! I'm not talking WOT here just slow acceleration it will go to 0. Right now when I get up to speed (at 55 or so) it's at 0 and I push in the clutch and let it idle for a sec and it comes back up to 4 psi and then I let the clutch out and it will stay there until I accelerate (even 1 mph, or uphill). At speeds above 60 it won't go over 0 no matter what I do. I'll post the pressures I have after the lift pump replacement tomorrow.

-Steve

 

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Ok guys, the new lift pump is on it's now at 10 psi startup and idle (and comes right back to 10 at idle after driving. Cruise it's a 6 psi. Partial throttle acceleration is also at 6, almost full throttle acceleration it will drop to 4, and full throttle it will drop to 1 (takes 9-10 seconds to get that low though). So the pump DEFINATELY needed replacement, the boxes do put some additional load on the lift pump but only under full throttle acceleration. I'll post more later, I have to get to work - it took a little longer than anticipated.

-Steve

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 08-30-2000). ]

 

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Just installed a Holley guage in the outlet port of fuel filter canister. Easy and inexpensive. Guage was $22 at hot rod shop. 1/8" pipe extension and coupler cost $2 and the whole deal simply screwed into the test port on the top of the filter holder/canister. It was so easy, I'm going to get another one and put it into the inlet port. Then I will be able to simultaneously read differences between inlet and outlet pressures. I'm planning to use this setup primarily to monitor fuel filter condition, but it will monitor lift pump status as well. Only problem is the guages are under the hood and cannot be read going down the road with the truck under load.

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99 3500 QC 4X4 5sp 3. 54 K&N air filter, DiPricol gauges, 275 hp injectors, Pacbrake, Westin nerfs, GN hitch, Tekonsha Brake controller, Mopar seat covers, Husky mats, silencer ring removed, Draw-tite front receiver

 

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Ninearrow, the problem with that is that if I hadn't been able to monitor my lift pump pressures while driving under load I never would have known that it instantly went to 0 under any acceleration. I would have looked at my idle pressures and said they're a little low but probably not a big deal - I'll replace the lift pump when I get time. Instead I saw it instantly go to 0 and freaked out ran straight out and bought a lift pump and put it on as soon as possible - and drove very carefully watching that gauge until I was able to do so! Total cost for my setup was around $80 for the gauge and senders, $5 for the aluminum to make the bracket, $10 for the gauge mount, and about $3 for the fuel line, hose barbs, hose clamps, wire.

-Steve

 

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Is there a high performance or high volume lift pump that can replace the factory pump? If so does anyone have any idea of the cost? And are they an improvement over the factory pump?

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99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's, LSD, Loaded except cab lights and leather, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Pro-flap mud flaps (Stainless Cummins "C" coming to add to rear flaps), Power Edge (my first BOMB), Valentine One, Amsoil throughout, CB Radio.

Things to come;

Hadley Bully Air Horns, 285/75R16 Cooper A/T's, SPA Pyro and Boost gauge, 4" exhaust system, DDIII's, Psychotty Air Filter.

NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)

[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 07-01-2000). ]

 

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BIG BOB -

Have a look... ... ... .

HVAC's Holley Lift Pump

 

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Steve, where did you mount the Stewart-Warner gauge inside the cab? I know you have a 2 gauge pillar pod set up, so where's the third one mounted? I forgot to look while in Michigan !

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Memo to the less-than-detail-oriented: My screen name is Briar with 2 "R's", not an "N" as in "Brian". Thank you!The "Fuzzy Mule" is: 2001 Ram 3500 4x4 Quad Cab,all black(Sport pkg. ) Cummins24v, 5speed, 3. 54,all options including leather , AMSOIL Dual Remote bypass oil filter,AMSOIL air filter,Westin black nerf bars, limo tint,DeeZee Platinum toolbox painted black to match, Line-X bedliner , Isspro boost and pyro gauges in dash pod from BD (sent back the Autometer stuff), PowerEdge, Grover air horns,
NRA Life/Endowment member(it's about freedom, not guns!)
97 Skeeter 17' bass boat, Yamaha 115, white,gold, & black

 

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I mounted it down below the dash to the left of the shifter console, right next to my Powermax. I used one of Geno's rubber donut mounts for it. I figured I didn't need to watch it all the time, I only need to check on it once in a while to be sure the lift pump's still working.

-Steve

 

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Thanks Steve, I'll be looking at installing one VERY SOON ! Semms like we're all operating somewhat in the dark here, wish we could get a Cummins engineer or highly experienced diesel tuner shop to give us the straight scoop on these lift pumps. For now, I'd rather err on the side of caution and not trust the pump...
Ninearrow,you need to know that Mark Chapple (owner of TST,retired Cummins engineer), and another source I can't remember, have said that you risk hydrolock failure by keeping the gauges you have hooked up all the time! You would be better off to use a longer tube, run it out to the windshield, and duct tape it in place, make a few runs, then unhook it and re-install plugs. Don't take my word for it, do a search, or call TST. But you have a great idea, very cheap and very useful, I might try it myself while waiting to do a permanent install.

 

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Hi Steve: Great idea. I'm a beginner at this but I can recognize the value of reliable data such as provided by your fuel guage setup. I tried to identify the test ports you referred to on the top of the fuel filter head, but even though I went through the Service Manual, I can't see any reference to them. Is it possible they aren't on my '97? ??? Thanks.

Pete.

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'97 2500 CC 4x4 5spd 3. 54LSD all stock except K&N Air, EGT&Boost Guages - next Psychotty & 4" exhaust

 

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why does it matter if you can see the pressure running down the road? will low pressure damage other stuff?

Thanks Steve (below). so to summarize - before pressure tells if you're lift pump is starving the fuel pump, and after pressure tells when you need to change the filter?

[This message has been edited by ted kidd (edited 07-07-2000). ]

 

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Brian,

Thanks for the advice. I've never heard of hydrolock before, but have great respect for Mark's advice. I'm going to change my setup and bring lines out of both ports, anyway. I'll either use 2 guages or put a Y valve in so I can direct the pressure back and forth. Has anyone tried this?

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99 3500 QC 4X4 5sp 3. 54 K&N air filter, DiPricol gauges, 275 hp injectors, Pacbrake, Westin nerfs, GN hitch, Tekonsha Brake controller, Mopar seat covers, Husky mats, silencer ring removed, Draw-tite front receiver

 

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the problem with that is that if I hadn't been able to monitor my lift pump pressures while driving under load I never would have known that it instantly went to 0 under any acceleration. I would have looked at my idle pressures and said they're a little low but probably not a big deal - I'll replace the lift pump when I get time. Instead I saw it instantly go to 0 and freaked out ran straight out and bought a lift pump and put it on as soon as possible - and drove very carefully watching that gauge until I was able to do so!

Ted, I guess it depends on what you consider other stuff. The VP44 pump is lubricated and cooled by fuel and they cost about $1400 for a rebuilt one! In my case with my dead lift pump I had 0 psi of fuel pressure coming out of the lift pump thereby greatly reduced the amount of fuel available for cooling and lubrication.

JackTar - I'm not sure about the '97. The next time I'm around one I'll check it out and get back to you on it. Sorry I can't help.

-Steve

 

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Steve,
Did you notice any power loss while you were running with the bad lift pump?



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Gene Earl
'97' 3500 Laramie SLT, Ext Cab, LB, 5 SPEED, 4. 10 Limited Slip, 4X4

 

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I didn't notice a power loss, but once I changed the lift pump out I did notice a little better throttle response.

-Steve