stick vs auto

[WBacon]

Which stickshifter is in the new truck? Is the 800# trq. Only available in the auto? Is the only difference in the 650-800# in the tune. How strong is the current stick?

 

[SHobbs]

From what I understand Dodge is trying to be like Ford and Chevy. Do AWAY with a manual. The max tow ( 800 ft/lbs ) is not available with a stick, they have derated the power with a stick and they use a dual mass flywheel as well. The dual mass flywheel can be a weak link if you up the power, thankfully South Bend has an answer for it. There are questions about the manual six speed transmission being an aluminum case and it's reliability. Won't stop me from buying one though I do not want an auto, never had one and never will.

 

[AHarris]

800 lbs torque with new Ram in auto, and only 610 with the manual. That's just plain stupid. Can't get a manual now in the 1/2 tons and pretty soon you won't have one in the 3/4 and 1 tons. Who the hell is gong to give up 190 lbs of torque for the "privilege" of driving a stick?

Because of the resulting low sales, Ram will join Ford and GM in not offering a single manual transmission option across their entire truck line! I'll bet that will happen by MY2014!

 

[Slow Six]

I hear your sentiments, but after owning and using both I am real happy with my new auto. The auto is a much better set up for towing and daily driving. The auto is great in the cities. My 03 was a stick and I found the transmission to be a weak link plus it needed a clutch upgrade. Don't get me wrong, I have drove manuals for over 50 years and still drive 18 speeds for work. If they continue to put in manuals they should use a transmission and clutch combos that will handle the torque. I drove a FL70 with a 7. 2 Cat and an Eaton 6 speed. This set up was strong and worked far better than any set ups in my Dodges. The latest 6 speed from Dodge is the G56 and it is probably the poorest one yet. Like previous posts I was reluctant to change but after quite a lot of heavy towing in various conditions I am a convert.

 

[RVTRKN]

With the new auto transmissions available for our rams, that have improved over the years, and if I were to buy a new truck, I would have a tough desision. If you drive your manual CTD as intended by Dodge, the G56 is a good transmission. The DMF has had problems and is not a forgiving flywheel if used beyond the weight ratings from Dodge. When it's time for my DMF to be replaced it will be with a solid flywheel. The big difference of an auto vs manual is power the auto robs from your engine and the heat generated from it, as well as the complicated repairs. The frequency of service and cost of maintaining an auto is far more than a manual. At the cost of new trucks, when my G56 is worn out I plan to convert it to better trany. I'm happy with my truck and love the smooth G56 over the hard shifting NV5600. But I wished my C&C had the NV5600 for its thoughness. When I purchased it, the G56 was only in a few CTD's at the time and the problems had not surfaced yet with DMF. Would I buy the same truck today, yes.

 

[NIsaacs]

The auto's have come a long way since the early 1st gen 3spd's. Also, the newer generation of drivers (in general) were raised with autos and can't even drive a standard.



Cars and V/8 equipped pickups (gas or diesel) are okay with autos. But when I look up and hear a Dodge Cummins take off and hear this "vooo... vooo" it is just wrong:-laf



Nick

 

[SierraRam]

I can say my G56 has been running with over 900#/ft torque for over 79k mikes. I do have a SB DD clutch and the transmission has been flawless. I don't take it easy on it either I am very happy with it.



I no the new six speed autos ate muct better I just perfer fo me to bet the computer and be able to choose how and when I select a gear change. Besides it helps me get my exercise :-laf

 

[WBacon]

So is the lower power rating really just the tune or are there some hard parts too?

 

[AH64ID]

The only hard parts that are different to handle the power are in the trans itself, the manual trans trucks also received the harmonic damper upgrade.

I am a manual guy, and will run a manual when all possible. There are instances where the auto is better, such as highway towing with the double OD ratios, but I still want positive control when towing/driving on forest service roads, which is where I spend a lot of time.

If I didn't spend the time I do off the beaten path I would probably get an auto in the new trucks.

 

[SHobbs]

So is the lower power rating really just the tune or are there some hard parts too?

Mostly the tuning from what I understand. The weakest links are the dual mass flywheel and the clutch. If I understand correctly the dual mass flywheel is tuned to the amount of power the engine produces which tells me it does not like added power. The factory clutch can only take so much before it gives up and starts slipping. If you want added power then a tuner like the Smarty will wake it up but be prepared to dump the factory set up and get a solid flywheel and stronger clutch.

I think Dodge dropped the ball again by derating the manuals. They are the ONLY one still putting out manual transmission equipped trucks and to me it is stupid to drop the power. They could offer the max tow in the manuals as well if they had any common sense.

 

[RonD]

Which stickshifter is in the new truck? Is the 800# trq. Only available in the auto? Is the only difference in the 650-800# in the tune. How strong is the current stick?

A simple search of past Posts would give you all the answers your looking for, plus more.

 

[WBacon]

Sorry. Guilty of not searching... no computer right now and the search funtion will not work on this "smart" phone. Besides... I love hearing from you guys and it is all very current opinion.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

800 lbs torque with new Ram in auto, and only 610 with the manual. That's just plain stupid. Can't get a manual now in the 1/2 tons and pretty soon you won't have one in the 3/4 and 1 tons. Who the hell is gong to give up 190 lbs of torque for the "privilege" of driving a stick?



Because of the resulting low sales, Ram will join Ford and GM in not offering a single manual transmission option across their entire truck line! I'll bet that will happen by MY2014!

You are quite accurate with this statement. HOWEVER if you ever drove a DuraTurd or 6. 0Powerjoke with a manual you would know why sales of the manual stopped. With NO bottom end torque it was extremely difficult to start a load without slipping the clutch.

 

[WBacon]

I guess what I am wondering is... if you buy a stick and then buy a smarty or something like that does it unlock you to the 800# and then add on top of that or do you start at the lower number. Lets say the box from ACME diesel adds 100# at setting 3. In the stick I am guessing you now have 710#. Or is it now 900#?

 

[HBarlow]

I guess what I am wondering is... if you buy a stick and then buy a smarty or something like that does it unlock you to the 800# and then add on top of that or do you start at the lower number. Lets say the box from ACME diesel adds 100# at setting 3. In the stick I am guessing you now have 710#. Or is it now 900#?

Of course not. The Ram with a G-56 manual six speed will be used in conjunction with a Cummins engine programmed for 610 ft. lbs. of torque.

It is widely known and understood here in TDR that the G-56 has an aluminum case that will not tolerate heavy towing like the NV-5600 did and the dual mass flywheel clutch assembly is known to fail at moderately low mileage if the truck is used for frequent towing. Joe Donnelly wrote an interesting article on the G-56 in a recent TDR magazine.

Buying one and adding a magic box that increases power output will void your warranty including the engine, flywheel, clutch, and transmission if you experience failure within the warranty period. You are very likely to be disappointed if you do that but it will be your money and your right to do that if you choose.

 

[S.Morris]

I am only making an educated guess here but, the smjr brings the low hp california earlier CR engines up to the same HO of engines of those years because the jr replaces factory programming (factory program gets stored in the smarty box so to speak.



If the Smarty for the new 6. 7's works the same way , than it is highly plausible that the 600 would be increased to 800 and then 100 on top of that.



Of course, I could be out in left field on this but I'm sure someone who has first hand experience on this will clear it up.

 

[RVTRKN]

The clutch and flywheel would have to be upgraded, and IF you go over the Dodge recommended GVWR/GCVWR then a girdle would be recommended to reinforce the aluminum transmission case, to keep it from flexing, otherwise the gears will not to mesh properly.

 

[jgillott]

I would probably choose a new one with an auto based on my experience with the G56. I am primarily a manual transmission fan. However, I have never cared for the G56 in my '07. Besides the known issues with the DMF etc. , they were supposed to be a great smooth shifting trans when they were were first marketed. I have found it to be the complete opposite with my experience. When new, mine was hard to shift, especially in to reverse. It had a much more vague feel to it than any of the NV equipped trucks I've driven/owned. It has finally started to shift better now that it has 60K on it. If and when I decided on a new truck, I will have a hard time buying another one. I just don't care for it.

 

[WBacon]

S Morris... thank you. That is exactly what I was wondering. As far as the warranty goes. I get it. My original post had no warranty questions. Thank you for the insight though...

 

[Surefire89]

I just put a VALAIR clutch in my G-56 and this manual just woke up to a whole new world. You wanna put power to the ground and choose your RPMs, then stick with a manual, simply replace the clutch and go on your way with a bullet proof drivetrain.
The choice was simple for me. I wanted to add power to my 6. 7 so it was either buy an expensive auto transmission or a simple clutch kit.