Sticky LSD Clutch Plates

[mikepvg]

Re: Dana 80 LSD w/ Mag-Hytec Cover



Everything was working fine w/ 2. 75 bottles of Mopar LSD modifier. LSD functioned and w/ no stickiness or grabing.



Put on another 15k miles w/o incident. Currently @133,000 miles.



Oil was changed w/ the same lube (Spirax 80/140) but w/ GM LSD modifier. (It was changed looking for another driveline problem which was subsequently fixed) I now have 3. 25 bottles in the rear but w/ sticky clutch plates around turns. Yes, the figure 8 drill w/ implemented.



1) Could the friction material on the clutch plates have worn out, thus making the plates sticky even though I have added more modifier than what worked previously?



2) The GM friction modifier is not the same as the Mopar modifier therfore I just need more?



3) If the clutch plates were totally worn out, could more modifier solve the stickiness anyways?



4) What kind of life could one expect out of a LSD clutch package?



Replacing the clutch package is NOT in the buget & therefore is NOT an option. $1500 for a dealer to replace clutch pack.

Looks like I will have to keep adding modifier until the condition abates at the risk of a functioning LSD.



Thanks for any advice.

Mike

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Mike,



I'm betting it's just the crappy GM friction Modifier. I read somewhere that a Dana/Spicer tech said the 'whale oil' the Dodge dealer has is the best. If it started acting up all of a sudden, or with a diffferent gear lube, then things might be different.



Mike,

BTW did you see this thread below? I changed the upper quad O ring on the fuel heater like you did. ALL blue smoke is gone on start-up. I can't believe it. Thanks for the tip!



Thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25521

 

[mikepvg]

Bill



Very nice upgrade to my original post! Definately one to add to my favorite references. Amazing what you can actually modify or fix for under a buck



Want to start a pool, to see how many more bottles (I will use the Mopar stuff) I'll have to put in there to get it right?



BTW, thanks for the kudos



Mike

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Mike,



Was your rear end lube $$$?



Reason I ask is it might be better to drain it and start over



Someone told me you don't want to put alot of friction modifier in with the lube. Too much is not good.



Tough call on what to do.

 

[SlyBones]

Does the new gear lube contain any friction modifier? How much gear lube did you add? Is the Mag-Hytec new?



I was recently told that our LSD's require about 6% - 8% friction modifier. Will depend of course on the individual rear end. So depending on how much that Maghytec allows you to put in, you may need different amounts to get you to the 6-8 percent mark. Would be different for a stock pan, because they dont hold as much lube.



Asked about the fluid because amsoil, for example, is supposed to be about 5% ( or equivelant of ) friction modifier. So if your LSD required 6% maybe you can get by like many and not add any. But if your LSD likes 8%, then you still need to add some. And that will vary on the amount of gear lube.

 

[C Schomer]

2x4oz. of Dana 43161 worked great in mine when I used Amsoil. It stopped every bit of the chatter. I haven't seen any of the others but this stuff was blue and smelled like h@ll! If you get it on your hands, you'll have to wear it off. The RP Maxgear 75w90 hasn't needed any. Craig

 

[Extreme1]

If the plates are worn, the LSD doesn't work - no sticky plates. It needs more modifier. I don't think there would be a reaction with the GM additive but you never know. You might want to try a sample first or (like mentioned above) drain and refill.



The estimate for new plates is offensively high. The parts are $400 wholesale. The replacement preceedure is a simple R & R. No set up required as long as the bearings look good. Remove the cover, the axles, the main bearing caps, pry (or might not have to) the carrier out. Mark (for proper reassembly) and unbolt the halves. Replace the clutches and reassemble. A day job.

 

[mikepvg]

The Spirax is a high quality synthetic PAO specifically Dana approved made by Shell. I had to buy a 5gal pail at around $100. The 1st 8quarts I put in w/ 2 bottles of Mopar additive worked well. It actually got spilled by a tech when checking out the driveline. I brought down another 8quarts but they only had the GM additive, so in it went. I do not have another 8qts to start over with (should only have 4qts left). I do have a 5gal pail of the same stuff in 75w-90, which would probably be fine for winter & I could change back to the 80w140 for the hot summer pulling activities. I understand the drawbacks of having too much modifier so am proceeding w/ caution. I'm going down to the Dodge dealer tommorrow & put in some of the Mopar additive & see what happens. Going by the #'s, w/ 3 4oz bottles, I'm still only at a 5% concentration. So if the GM stuff just doesn't work as well, its probably safe to use some more & stay w/in the recommended concentration.

It'll be a cocktail of LSD modifiers in there!

 

[mikepvg]

Well... .



I added another 4oz bottle of Mopar LSD additive & the problem has almost disappeared. So I now have 3 bottles of GM & 1. 25 bottles of Mopar additive.

The GM stuff is definately not the same as the Mopar stuff. I would not used it again just based on the fact that the same quanity used as the Mopar stuff did not work. i. e. 3 bottles of GM is as effective as 1. 5 bottles of Mopar in my application.



So stick w/ MoparPN 04318060AB to prevent stickiness.





Mike

 

[newtrout]

I've had my '97 for about a month now. I had noticeable chatter from the limited slip from day one. I finally got around to putting Redline 75W-90 in. Chatter is completely gone. No additive...