2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sticky morning brakes

[AC]

overnight rust theory

I don't buy it. I took my drums off and looked at them after the truck had sat for two days in very wet weather. The drums looked perfect, no rust.

I have noticed that sometimes after the truck has been sitting that when I release the E-Brake and then work the E-Brake pedal up and down, there doesn't seem to be as much travel in it. IE the shoes aren't moving in and out very smoothly.

My own theory is that that the mechanism hangs up the first few times you depress the brakes and then starts to move freely again. Besides, why would the rear drums rust overnight but the rotors remain unaffected? Someone else suggested that the pads themselves actually swell in the humidity and that's what does it. But once again, why would the fronts be unaffected? I've owned many vehicles and not one has had this problem which makes me wonder why this truck is different. Could it be the proportioning valve?



AC

 

[John]

Re: overnight rust theory

Originally posted by AC

Someone else suggested that the pads themselves actually swell in the humidity and that's what does it.

This was posted by "sam peterson"... local brake specialist (Olympia, WA). Sam's advice is usually right on! He's just not one to toot his own horn.

 

[raychem]

sticky rear brakes

I have also had a similar problem with my 97 3500 when I bought it. In the morning, the rear brakes would lockup with the slightest touch of the pedal. I fixed this problem by replacing the rear brake cylinders, about fifty bucks, turned the drums, and put a new set of brake shoes. This should take care of the problem you are having. Aaahhh before I forget, bleed the brakes on all four corners too! Hope this helps,





Richard

 

[Ian]

Twice.

Had this problem twice with a first generation.

Ist time, leaking axle seal, softened the linings, they wore down below the rivet heads which wore into the brake drum. Needed new linings and drum.

2nd time, (axle seal leaking again) caught it before any other damage was done, just a seal replacement.

Found that after the brake (only one side affected both times, same side) grabbed, go into reverse and move back a few feet for the brake to release. Sometimes had to do this two or three times, then no more trouble until the next morning.

 

[Loren]

Sometimes when I get on these forums I'm able to help someone, but most of the time I learn something.



I've had that "rust" theory for several years, but it was late last night when I was reading (skimming) through the posts here. I didn't realize that Sam had posted an answer.



I agree with John... If Sam Peterson says something about brakes, it generally pays to listen.



His answer also explains the sticky parking brake issue better than my rust theory.



Thanks, Sam.



Loren

 

[DPKetchum]

Just my 2 cents worth. This has been a problem mainly with trucks for several decades. Imports and domestics!Some worse then others. proberly type of lining matierial helps to pronounce this. I always thought this was kinda a normal condition on most trucks. I've none folks under warranty and not to fight this tooth and nail and can't tell you how many times they had to learn to live with it. They always are wirse in humid/rainy weather. When RWAL(rear antilock)which is not a try ABS came out some of the manufactures promoted this to help stop being slamed first thing in a. m. it helps some. Me,i don't let bother me. Handled Nissan 14 years and all those buggers would send you and drinks into windshield first think in A. M. Folks learned to drive around it. Rwal did help some but not a full cure.

 

[DPKetchum]

Just my 2 cents worth. This has been a problem mainly with trucks for several decades. Imports and domestics!Some worse then others. probably type of lining material helps to pronounce this. I always thought this was kinda a normal condition on most trucks. I've known folks under warranty and not to fight this tooth and nail and can't tell you how many times they had to learn to live with it. They always are worse in humid/rainy weather. When RWAL(rear anti-lock)which is not a try ABS came out some of the manufactures promoted this to help stop being slammed first thing in a. m. it helps some. Me,i don't let bother me. Handled Nissan 14 years and all those buggers would send you and drinks into windshield first thing in A. M. Folks learned to drive around it. Rwal did help some but not a full cure. We use to gather in A. M. to watch folks leave service after a new clutch job. WHY?They would jump in,slam into gear,release NEW clutch and get slamed into seat,bark tires and then HIT brakes and go into steering wheel. GET a stupid look and try it all slower and more smoothly. Always was good for a hoot at 7:30 A. M.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by djbobo

When you converted to rear disc's, was it with the newer trucks or some kind of conversion? Any abs problems? Porpotional valve needed?

I would like to try to put a late model disc rear end in mine, I might start a post on this one. I agree with you with this being the best 'fix' for the sticky brake issue.



dj

My conversion was from EGR performance brakes. www.EarthRoamer.com/EGR. They are in CA. No special stuff to do. Just remove the old brakedrum crap and follow the instructions. You need to press on the disc with the new lug bolts provided. If you don't have your own press, let a shop do it. I bought the complete front and rear brake upgrade and conversion. Its not cheap. About $2k. They buy back your old front calipers for $120. 00 I am still working on the fronts. Having trouble removing the rotors due to rust. I will post the results when I am done. So far the rear works fantastic!

 

[Hooty222]

Have same problem... However moisture/ flash rusting are all good theories but my 01 3/4t does it and I am in phoenix. And I can promise you there are no moisture issues around here (sometimes wish there were) To sum it all up... . That's the nature of the beast. no seal leaks either.....

 

[DPKetchum]

Lining matierial is designed to work with heat. Thats maybe a factor also. As soon as a little heat gets to them they don't do it,as in first stop in the A. M. I looked into the rear disc conversion for my 1993 W250. Looked at EGR performance brakes and then the conversion was the G. M. style rear as used on the Cad Eldo etc. Well the Caddys DID not STOP well at ALL. More like throwing a SLOW parachute out the window. A few guys on the 1st generation forum kinda felt the same way after the conversion. was cheaper to go to the larger wheel cyl and the 3 inch shoes(which fit with no problem)and braking was also much improved. Some cars with four wheel disc and backing down a steep drive first off in the A. M. WONT stop until pedal shoved through the FLOOR. this WAS a major issue and in my mind NOT safe. I heard some horror stories back then with this. Pull up the driveway and do it again and they stop ok. But first off WHEW they could be un nerving.

 

[KMatheson]

Sam, What do you recommend for rear shoes here in the oh-so-very-wet Northwest??

 

[LEggers]

I get the same problem did a complete brake job on the rear last year. I thought I may have a seal leak but when I got in there I too found no oil and no wheel cyliner leaks.

I installed all new parts including seals and just over the past few weeks like clock work my truck is doing it again with the rain here in Seattle. I drove threw a couple feet of water on my way to work and after work I had very grabby rear breaks for several miles.



I do not worry about it as long as my brakes are releasing and not draging.