Here I am

Still Wont Start!

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my old truck won"t start

Q for all of you who's getrag dumped.

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Put the pump back on the truck. The pump key was at six o clock the motor was at TDC. I bled the injectors got fuel out of all of them.

Still wont start!



I checked the throtle index as per a post I found and I was good.



I advanced and retarded the timming hoping it would fire.



Any help would be great!!
 
No Ideas.

Does anyone know if there is a manual such as chilton or haynes that would contain the information I am in need of.
 
Not sure for your truck but did you check to see if your truck has a fuel shutoff solenoid and if it is working? On the second gens if the solenoid doesn't engage the truck won't start.
 
fuel shutoff solenoid

I believe I do, two wires both 12v with the key. They go to different spots on the pump. I have 12v at both but how do I test the solenoid
 
mykal41 said:
I believe I do, two wires both 12v with the key. They go to different spots on the pump. I have 12v at both but how do I test the solenoid



Not sure how much help this will be since I have a 2nd Gen but here is what I have.



The fuel shut-off solenoid is controlled by a fuel shut-off solenoid relay. The relay is on the fire wall of my truck just to the center of the cab from the power brake assembly.



Easiest way to check the solenoid is to see if the shaft on the bottom moves up and down when power is applied to the solenoid. First note the position of the shaft when the key is "OFF", then turn the ignition key "ON" and see if the shaft is pulled up. . You don't need to start the truck but the book actually says to crank the truck over to make sure the shaft goes all the way up to the solenoid. , when you release the key to the "ON" position the shaft should stay in the "UP" position. If the shaft doesn't move up, the truck won't start and you would have to determine if the solenoid or the relay was bad. I've read that if the shaft doesn't move up, you can manually pull it up and start/run the truck but you won't be able to stop the truck either unless the shaft is allowed to drop back to the "down" position.



Another thought, have you adjusted/checked your idle RPM speed? I was recently told (and confirmed) that if the idle speed is to low, the truck may not start either.
 
You could've dropped the key down in the timing case when you put the pump back in with the key way at 6 o clock. I have a hard time figuring out how so many guys have problems with R&R of the VE. It will only go on one way. Engine is keyed, pump is keyed. Don't R&R it with the keyway at 6am. Too easy to drop the key. I like to R&R mine at the 1 o clock position.



A Cummins troubleshoot and repair manual or the 89 Dodge Factory service manual "Diesel Supplement" would be helpful. Both have excellent info on pump R&R. Ebay for both manuals, or Cummins for the T&R manual.



If you suspect the shutdown/run solenoid, remove it, remove the spring and plunger from the solenoid, reinstall the solenoid, then you won't have that in the picture.



You should always prime a new/rebuilt injection pump with fuel before ever cranking the engine. Do it with the fuel lever primer on the lift pump.



Sorry can't help.
 
On your 12v going to the shutoff solenoid, make sure your BLUE wire is hooked to it. If you have your pump power going to the KSB, it wont start. Take a test light and make sure you're getting power to the solenoid wire. Next thing is to take the pump off and make sure you have the pump and gear lined up right. Are you getting any white or black smoke when cranking?



Daniel
 
Smoke

No smoke what so ever. It cranks and cranks but no smoke.



I had to replace the pump gear, and while the pump was off I TDC'd the motor. I was told to six o clock the pump key and install te gear.



I will pull the cover tonight and move the gear foard of back and see what happens.



I have alot of fuel from the injector lines so its getting fuel. Its got to be the timming.
 
I believe that is "approximately" the six-o-clock position. The book shows you what numbers/ letters to line up. I cant remember at this time, though. Glad you got it figured out.



FWIW, you didnt HAVE to remove the pump, just the front cover, to change the gear.



Daniel
 
9/6/06

White smoke is "unburned" fuel as opposed to Black which is "Incomlpete" burned. That points to retarded timing. Could be you got one or more teeth off when you reassembled your pump drive and or idler gear. Or check that the woodruff key is properly in on the pump shaft. If it was running good before you took it apart, eliminate all the things that could have gone wrong then, before backtracking to something else.

__________________

"Smells like a Taco Truck"



Help



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

9/6/06

NOBODY ELSE HAS ANY INPUT ON THIS.



I am going to try to advance the pump today, any tricks (custom made wrenches or so) to help get the job done.

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9/15/06

She's alive.

It was 4 teeth out on the pump gear.



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You got the right answer on the 6th. 9 days earlier.



Nuff said!! :-laf :-laf :-laf
 
Last edited:
The 6th

Believe it or not they were two separate problems. The first time I assembled the gears It ran but I had white smoke. I was timing the pump and broke a fitting on the pump. I had to pull the pump to replace the line. While it was off I replaced the gov spring.



I reassembled the pump and gear assembly. This time I was asking for some timing marks instead of the six o clock method.



The advice I got on the 6th was taken but I screwed something else up!! In the long run you were correct and I appreciate the help.



If anything I have learned to listen since I have joined the forum.



I have built some pretty sick gas trucks over the last few years (current truck 98 1/2 ton 4wd 408ci kenne bell 13. 20s on mud terrains) But the diesel bug has bite me hard. I am learnin.



Thanks again for everybodys help and patience.
 
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