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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Stock Clutch Rating

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine plates

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Before I go crazy figuring power upgrades, how far will I be able to go horsepower wise before I need to get a South Bend? What's the factory clutch rated at?
 
Somewhere between 50-100HP you will probably start to slip it. On my HO 6 Speed I had no problem with the 100HP injectors but as soon as I added the comp I could slip it at will with the box off and only acting as a boost fooler. Jake
 
The stock 5 speed clutch was generally good to around 600 lb/ft. It's really more dependent on torque than horsepower. Injectors will generally add more hp and not as much torque whereas a box will add more torque. I ran an original Powermax 1 (+ ~60 hp/160 lb/ft) with no problem. When I added 275 injectors (+ ~40) I could sometimes slip the clutch.
 
I'd have to agree with Jake, I dynoed at 288 HP with just the DD True Torque Power Module. When I installed DD II's the clutch slipped the next day.

I knew I'd have to replace the clutch when I did the injecters.
 
My last dyno run on level-4 gave me 682TQ. After I upped the box to level 5 my clutch will slip between 1600-2000 rpm. It seems that the 6er's clutch is good till 650-700TQ. My SBC con-ofe is in the mail now!

JC
 
See my signature. Even towing heavy, I had no clutch slippage - until the DD2s went in. My wife slipped the clutch running empty @ 1800 RPM in 5th gear the same day. In went the Con OFE.



Rusty
 
I've had my EZ and DD2s in for 18 months and 20K miles of around-town, constant-shifting, abuse.



My stocker clutch is still going strong. I start in first gear most of the time, and I think this is a big reason why it's holding on.



This is with 3. 54 axle ratios.



It dynoed 390rwhp and 918lb-ft. Probably fishy since I have the same combo as Rusty, and I doubt there is a 30hp and 130+lb-ft difference. I bet a lot of this is in the axle ratios and what gear you dyno in. I did my pulls in 6th gear with the 3. 54s.



Justin
 
Little off topic . . but I see must of you in this thread have dyno'd your rigs. . I can't seem to locate a dyno near me . I'm on the central Ca. Coast near Santa Barbara. I'd love to see where I'm w/ HP & torq. After all the Mods I've done I can bust the duallies loose on 2-3rd. gear shift. Any one know of a dyno on the central coast ????

On Topic;
Got 115k on orginal stock clutch. . no slippage!! 25k of that is pulling a 12k lb GN horse trailer rest around town. I always take off in 2nd empty. . Only use 1st towing. . go figure. I did have the truck fleet built in Kanas City, Mo. . Had to wait 5 months to get it. . Well worth the wait. . been trouble free. . ex 1 vp44.

Must have been built on a Wednesday . . LOL
Cheers,
Matt
 
I added VA box at 60K pulled 12000 boat clutch went to pieces. If you are pulling mountains you have to becarefull. 355
 
I tow 13,000 with the stock clutch,(70,000 miles) I'm hoping it hangs in there until I get the 6-Speed conversion done with the SBC. Went over Donner Pass in Reno holding my breath!!! I was really careful with the loud pedal!! :D



Tom



2001 2500 4X4 Laramie SLT LB Quad 5-Spd. Black. DD TTPM, DD-Stage-1's, AFE, Bully-Dog 4" Exhaust, JAKE Brake, Geno's Banjo's, 2nd (and last) lift pump, 3 Autometer's on the A-Pillar, silencer ring M. I. A. , Redline Oil throughout, RASP any day now!
 
The clutch should hold somewhere around 100HP increase. Resutls vary wildly though. Just remember you may be on borrowed time after a big increase. Just don't let Wade talk you into hooking to the sled after! :) I smoked mine bad. :D Took it easy for a while and it still holds, even pulling heavy or Hard 5th gear accelerations. I know a clutch is in my future but I hate to pull a good one. Just stay away from big injectors and the sled and the clutch should be fine.
 
Just a Comp was enough to slip mine - but it took a year for it to happen. I have the performance listed in my sig below, as well as the new Cerametallic clutch listed. We use the truck mostly for RV towing - when I removed the original disc and pressure plate, was surprised how good they both appeared - but I always got off the power immediately when I detected slippage...
 
Clutch

Gary - KJ6Q said:
Just a Comp was enough to slip mine - but it took a year for it to happen. I have the performance listed in my sig below, as well as the new Cerametallic clutch listed. We use the truck mostly for RV towing - when I removed the original disc and pressure plate, was surprised how good they both appeared - but I always got off the power immediately when I detected slippage...





I too slipped the clutch with only the comp in less than 3 weeks. The Con OFE holds it all there now
 
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