Stock Clutch

[ELABAY]

This is the best site on the internet for anyone who owns a cummins/ram. I dont post on here much because I can usually find an answer to my question before I ask, but not yet this time. I have a stock '05 cummins nv5600 4X4quad cab 52,000 miles. Sometimes it is hard to get in gear, I have gotten used to cycling the clutch and all that other stuff. Now the only way for me to get it in gear is to push the pedal all the way to the floor, going from nuetral to 2nd or shifting while driving. My question is, is my clutch getting ready to go, or is there a way of adjusting anything. I have never had to add dot3 to anything either.

 

[rbattelle]

You mean it's hard to get into 1st or 2nd gear when you're stopped? If so, that's fairly normal.

Or are you having trouble going into gear while moving? It's not quite clear from your post... I think we need a little more detail.

Ryan

 

[ELABAY]

It is harder to get in gear while stopped than it used to be, but now if i dont have the pedal pushed all the way to the floor it wont go at all. I also have to push the pedal to the floor to shift while I am moving.

 

[GCroyle]

52,000 miles of reasonable driving is not usually enough to kill a clutch. That being said, it can be done in minutes if you want to.



One of the signs that a clutch is on its way out (even before it starts slipping) is an increase in the pedal effort. The only fair comparison is like for like. You shouldn't base pedal effort on two different clutch systems, need to be the same as close as possible. Pedal effort increases as the disc gets thinner. The exception is a Self Adjusting Clutch (G56) which you do not have.



These systems do not have an adjustment, its all built in.



I suggest that you try this first. You will need an assistant and a 13mm wrench.



Go under the truck and remove the slave cylinder with the 13mm wrench. The assistant is going to watch the fluid in the clutch master cylinder so the cap must be off and the black boot removed.



CAUTION: Do not push on the clutch pedal with the slave removed from the transmission!



While the assistant watches, you take the slave cylinder and with the pushrod pointed down, you push the push rod in, not fast, but push it all the way in. Repeat this several times, possibly even letting it hang pointed down for a 1/2 hour or so, you can also tap the line with a screwdriver handle to make any bubbles get the idea to get the heck out of your fluid.



Repeat the observation and pushback technique.



I'm hoping that your assistant will shout out, hey, I see bubbles coming out of the fluid port! That would be good.



Now, if you do not have a steering gear puller, just bolt it back up and hopefully drive it away.



If you do have a puller, consider bolting it to the slave cylinder body (pushrod and boot removed) and fixture it so the piston cannot move. Now, stick your head under the dash, flashlight in hand and push on the clutch pedal with your hand only, remember the slave is blocked from traveling. With it blocked, the pedal should go ROCK HARD really quick, how quick? About 1/8" to 3/16" or less of Master Cylinder push rod travel, not pedal, but the actual push rod.



It is suprising how little air it takes to have an impact on the reduction in clutch release bearing travel and create shifting problems.



This is only one possible, there are other reasons, like the pilot bearing continues to drive the input shaft, this has happened.



This is a cheap do it yourself might get lucky procedure.



Good luck.

 

[ELABAY]

Thanks for the input. I will be out of town this weekend, but I will try it next week and post results. Thanks again.