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stock exhaust on 03

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the 03 muff flows ~310 CFM

the pre03 muffs flow ~297 CFM

an aftermarket straight throw muff flows ~900 plus-ish



translation: junk the stock muff - better yet, recycle it - cut it in half and make a worm farm out of it:D
 
CFM?

RDietz, thanks for the cfm numbers, where did they come from? I know when a factory muff is replaced with an aftermarket piece, it SEEMS like an improvement, but seat-of-the-pants meter doesn't really tell us what we need to know. Things like EGT drops etc are a good indicator that an improvement has taken place, but still need the numbers. Anybody know the max CFM the stock intake filter/box assy will handle?

The reason for the simple questions are, do I take a chance on voiding my warranty to reduce EGT, or do I live with the factory stuff and put up with a less-than-optimum system to keep warranty in place? TIA, Ron:confused:
 
When replacing the exhaust the only warranty that is voided is on the exhaust itself. A item would have to be PROVEN to cause other damage to void warranty. I know I will hear others jump in and say but!But the truth is TECHNICALLY it has to cause the failure of said system etc. Fueling boxes in my mind cross that line.
 
frijole, i got the CFM numbers from a brochure from banks - they do all sorts of testing like that, so they can charge you $270 for a muffler :rolleyes: .

i imagine their numbers are accurate as i've gotten similar flow rates on straight-through donaldson mufflers from airflowonlince.com.

your stock airbox flows (impedes) at about 325-400 CFM. AFE aftermarket flows the best with the highest filtering (mega force) as compared to all other "oil-gauze" filters - although their filtering falls short of OEM minimum specs. BHAF filters flow around 600 CFM - i'm considering a "marine" application BHAF that is "suppose" to flow around 900 CFM

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/archive/topic/81015.html



pm me if you would like me to send you the intake "airflow comparison" chart i have on file - i think it was originally put together for a ford psd
 
DPKetchum, unfortunetly they do not need to prove anything to deny your warranty. They simply do it and then its up to you to prove them wrong. I have been through the process and while it does not require an attorney (except to help you get the ball rolling) it does require some time and expense on your part. In my case it would have been simpler and cheaper to bite the bullet but it was a matter of principle IMO and so I followed through on the fight. As far as hp I didnt gain even 1 hp from changing my intake and exhaust on the dyno but did see a reduction in egt's and the truck revs quicker up to the point where it starts pulling. I went muffler/resonater because I wanted to maintain that 03 quiet as much as possible while getting rid of the raspy plugged up exhaust tone I felt the truck had stock. BTW when measured with and spl meter my exhaust is now quieter than stock at idle and cruise but has a nice bark to it when you got the truck honkin. Just right for a pathetic old person like me.
 
Air Flow

RDietz, I believe what you say about the airflow, Shooter and I went through this stuff when he had a 2K and I had my '01 trucks, respectively. We both put the Donaldson BHAF (B105006), coupled with the Freightliner 4" straight-thru muffler and the combo worked well to reduce EGT. I have a BHAF here, and tried to stuff it in the '03, couldn't get it in there, (even with the 4" 45* elbow cut down), without it rubbing on the A/C lines or getting dangerously close to the positive terminal on the battery.

Shooter has a Donaldson Catalog, is also outa town, but when he gets back, gonna have him look for a smaller BHAF with a 4" outlet, anything's better than the stock airbox. The gauze filters bother me enough that I won't use one, unless forced because nothing else will fit. With the BHAF, never saw a hint of dust/dirt in the intake hose, saw very good "heavy breathing". I really like the "ram air" concept of the Scotty, just wish there was a more efficient filter available. I don't know if you really need the marine version of the B105006, but if you get hit with water a lot in the front end maybe it's worth it.

DPKetchum-- Most will agree about your thoughts on the warranty issue, it gets down to your local dealer and how he will work with you on warranty repairs. The fact that the Muff and/or the air filter assy is considered part of the emissions system may make it a "sticky" situation, CA guys having a worse situation than most of us. AND... if the dealer is a d**khead, it gets down to how many lawyers DC has sitting around doing nothing, versus how many YOU have, EH? I could prove the air/flow, EGT point in any court of law, (especially at 6500 ft elevation, and 35 years in the A/C service/repair business), but it would cost a fortune in legal fees. (But I'd love every minute of it, just don't have the money). Sorry so long, but this stuff needs to be on the table. Ron

Oo.
 
I worked dealers for 25 years. Unless it was REAL obvious that it caused a failure hardly nothing ever said about add ons. Most of the time it was quicker to fix it and go on to the next repair. We did have a issue on a vp44 injection pump on a 01 with a TON of Banks goodies under the hood. Intake,turbo housing etc. It was denied by D. C. under warranty and BANKS sent a new vp44 pump and said THAT THEY had a working relationship with D. C. and send them the old pump and THEY would get it handled. Banks UPS ASAP another pump. Kinda impressed me. Truthfully the pump SHOULD have been warranty. We all know how HIGH the failure rate is on them. Some places spend more time being a ASS then fixing the truck/auto etc. Most techs could give a rat. They just wanna be PAID. Don't much care WHO pays them as long as its on their flag sheet at the end of the day.
 
I just ordered my DPP exhaust through Mass Diesel. I will keep the old system just in case I have emissions test problems. We in MA have the same draconian emissions as the folks in CA.



Wild...
 
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