Here I am

stock plate adjust vs. tst plate

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Now for my first trick err post!

Pyro Readings

Status
Not open for further replies.
In reading the recent posts, there are some of you getting very good results from moving the stock plate all the way foward. In fact, more additional ponies than changing to the #11 TST plate. Other than the obvious $300 tag on the TST plate, what are pros and cons of just moving stock plate foward? Torque increase? Smoke? Ease of starting? Engine longevity?
 
I'm not an expert on the P7100 pump but I seem to remember someone (might have been Joe Donnelly) last year saying that there was a pin in the P7100 rack that was stressed when the plate was slid all the way forward and could possibly break. If anyone else remembers this hopefully they will respond. It was in some post about sliding the plate forward to gain power. It was said that it's better to use the proper plate for more fuel rather than sliding yours.
 
I just slid my plate forward. Great results and I was able to adjust the smoke to an acceptable level. However, I slide it back last night due to the fact that it has too many cons. In a post a couple of days ago I was told that it fuels all the way through the rev band instead of just at the upper levels. For me, I need to tow and don't have a pyro yet,(married with children) so I couldn't see makin' my motor look like Chernobyl to save 250-300 bannanas. That's not much money for the increase you get. I would expect more out of an aftremarket plate. I don't know enough to say weather it's hard on the pump or not, bein' new at this game.
 
No matter what you do you need gauges. Before you even think of modifying and engine you need the correct gauges. This will let you know how much you helped/hurt you engine. A set with A-piller only cost ~$200. That's cheep for all the diagnostics you can do from them.
 
Guages are in and seem to be operating normally. The EGT sensor is in the cast elbow attached to turbo outlet. I've been told to add 300* due to location, sound right?
 
300 degrees is considered a safe number to add. It isn't usually that great a difference but it's a good rule of thumb to keep from running too hot. I once saw a chart that showed the difference pre and post turbo under various operating conditions. As I recall, the difference never exceeded 300 degrees.
 
With 370s and my plate forward about a 1/16 of an inch I can hit 1400 deg with no trouble when running empty and pulling towards 90mph. Couldny get over 1200 with stock injectors and plate position even when pulling 7000lb trailer, thats pre turbo by the way.
 
I've got TST number 6 slid all the way forward. EGT's can get excessive when pulling hard, say passing some unworthy gasser that's impotently trying to pull a trailer up a grade, etc. If I recall right, the thing about breaking something in the pump was refering to trying to run without a plate at all, as I have heard of some bozo's trying to do :rolleyes: You might start off with just the stock plate slid but you will probably wind up wanting more. It's a slippery slope, you know :D
 
it depends on how far forward you slide the stock plate for how much power you get. Banks says . 020 = 35hp for their exhaust systems for everything but a 215hp truck, then its . 10 for the same results. If you go all the way forward it really depends on were your plate started, the farther you move it forward the more power you'll get. I usuall cut that back parts off the adjustments so I can slide it to within 1/16" from the front of the opening, thats as far forward as the plate can go with the afc going back on to the farthest forward of its adjustments. This combined with a few other tweaks are usually equal to 80 to 100 hp. Otherwise you'll know real close to you exact power by buying a aftermarket plate set were they tell you. If you really want to know how much before or after, go to a dyno then there will be almost no question. :)
 
The TST plate changes the shape of the torque curve. It adds more fuel in the mid range than at top end compared to the stock plate. This broadens the usable hp range. Moving the stock plate forward gives the same amount of increase at all rpm, an amount that is lower than using the TST plate, especially in the mid range. In most cases this means some more power everywhere but not as much as you could want. The 215 hp 12 valve engine is a special case and with it moving the stock or TST plate forward quickly gets into high egt above about 2400 rpm. The TST plaltes are carefully designed to increase fuel the safe amount at each rpm range.



In the 215 I have dynoed the plate movement at 28 hp per 0. 035" movement. The other P7100 pumps give 1/2 to 1/3 as much gain per amount of movement. None of the pumps gave the amount of gain quoted in an earlier post on this thread.
 
its funny how banks turbo a reputable and very well wknown diesel advacate would sell you the spects in the above mentioned post by me when they are all wrong. Then taking the already known and sold to me by the above mentioned after making 354hp on the dyno, with 215 injectors and a hx40 then with a "quarnetied" 400 hp by the aformentioned yeolded 334hp with a #10 camplate and 370's. Funny how that works when some makes 300 or so dollors plus injectors on that. ")
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top