Here I am

stop barking!!!

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Clean Diesel Grants

TIPM Saver. 2006 and up

anyone come up with a simple boost relief/blow-off valve ?? all bombers need em nobodies got one. all ricers enjoy it but we cant seem to get one ,why???
 
Diesels don't have a throttle plate, so there is no way a normal blow-off valve would know when to open. BD's pop off has electronics that sense throttle position, clutch position and who knows what else?? That would explain the high cost, some of it anyway. I think a better product than a blow-off valve would be something that attaches to the throttle line and lets it off at a fixed speed to prevent barking. So no matter how quick your foot comes of the throttle, the turbo never sees compressed air forced backwards, through it. Probably a lot of safety concerns with that though.
 
im going to make one tomorrow , it will cost considerably less than brand "x" and work 100% mechanically, ill keep yall updated.
 
ok not 100% but mostly mech, this is how it works... went to "n"parts store got a cannister purge valve(electric emissions device) wired w/fuse to contact switch on throttle linkage (adjustable!)(can also mount anotherone any where else for fun or whatever)then tap a boost source (intake manifold works) route it to the purge valve then to the dump valve . notice: the dump valve must hold your boost pressure! and work off pres not vacuum! it will only dump boost as boost is held and switch is live. easy dyi project and could save ur turbo!! i'll email u a diagram if interested. enjoy!!
 
how large is this valve. . ?
i have been wanting to rig up a bov but i have been waiting to find a good deal on a turbosmart, greddy, hks or tial 40-50mm bov. . i had an idea on how to make it work, and after seeing the install instructions [with pictures:D] for the BD turboguard, mine will work in a similar fashion [just with switches - ±10psi pressure switch, clutch & 0% throttle] but will have a controled bleed valve to actuate the BOV instead of a spool valve
 
Hey DCreed! Sounds interesting. Could you email me a diagram of what you're planning on doing? Email is -- email address removed --. Thanks! Eric
 
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A bov on a gas motor works off of boost pressure and spring pressure to stay closed, when the throttle plate closes, it causes huge vacuum that opens the valve and releases the boost. On your dodge you can wire two solinoids, one on (from the charge piping) to provide closing pressure whil truck is at anything above idle, off when truck is at idle (via micro switch on the throttle), the other one on when truck is at idle (throttle off) plummed into the vacuum pump, this will open the valve when the throttle is let off. You will need both of these solinoids because the spring pressure in a standard bov will not hold over 15-20psi boost unless the diaphram is being held closed by by boost pressure. you can get a knock off tial 50mm off of ebay for under $100. 00. this is the same valve that BD uses. hope all that makes sense :)
 
holy cow !! $$$$$$$ bd is nuts!!! it costs less to replace the turbo bearing! anybody sane have one??



Well I am not sure about the sane thing;) , but I do have a BD BOV installed. Yes it is expensive, but for me I am glad I had it installed. $40,000 truck, $12,000 in mods whats another 5 or 6 hundred bucks, if it works. After I had my tc/trans upgraded and with just air intake, exhaust and 150hp boxes I could bark my stock turbo with very moderate acceleration and let off. Just got worse when I added the II SPS66 and more hp. In my case it has eliminated pretty much all barking on the street. It will still bark on WOT and OD/Lockup because of the hard rpm drop with my TC, but that is limited to track or occasional road "testing" with ricers around. Mine works well for me.



This is what I posted on anther thread on the BD BOV. It is what I know about the operation of the device.



On the 3rd gen Cummins the kit connects to the TPS/APPS circuit among other physical connections. The install is involved and requires fabrication on the intake tubing at least.



The tuning of the BD BOV can be tricky, but once tuned can generally stay that way. This is the controller tuning options:



Four potentionmeters for adjustment:



APPS:

Set the amount of voltage from the APPS/TPS that needs to be dropped before the valve will open.



TIME:

To set the period of time that the APPS/TPS setting must be initiated in to activate the valve.



RE-APPLY:

To set the amount of re-apply of APPS/TPS voltage to allow before canceling the valve activation.



Pulse:

Set the length of time that the valve should be pulsed open for.



A Cancel input can be used to shutdown/turn off operations with an external switch applying 12volts. I need to do this for the track.



BTW: Forgot to add that it looks cool if you can get in the right position to see it and the psssst, psssssst when operating gets as many looks as the turbo whine at 55psi. :)
 
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So how big a deal is this "barking"?? as far as damage to stock turbo / other?? And how annoying?



I have a smarty / intake / exhaust and plan on getting some dtt parts for the trans and turning up the smarty... . eventually i'll get an sps62 / gdp fuel pump.....



I'm going to be pretty tapped after $4k for the trans work... and just want to know if i'm going to be miserable becasue of the bark and the fact i cant get the turbo right away? Is it bad enough to wait until i can upgrade the turbo as well?



Sorry if these are stupid questions, but i've never heard a turbo bark and dont know squat about it.



Thanks in advance.
 
Well I was told the barking would not really hurt the II SPS66, but it cannot be good for any turbo. Some trucks seem to bark turbos much easier than others and it can be minimized on the street. But I just got tired of it barking everytime I enter a freeway and had to accelerate and then slow down quickly because of Houston drivers.
 
How can it be minimized? Driving differently? From reading on here, i'm under the impression it's when you have a sudden lift off the throttle, or somethimes under hard accell on the 3-4 shift???
 
How can it be minimized? Driving differently? From reading on here, i'm under the impression it's when you have a sudden lift off the throttle, or somethimes under hard accell on the 3-4 shift???



Well I mean minimize with driving habits and right foot. Rolling in and out of throttle without just dropping out of moderate to high acceleration, letting off some before the OD Lockup is about to happen, etc. , but there is always the idiot that changes lanes in front while you are accelerating and nothing I could do about those barks.
 
i'm under the impression it's when you have a sudden lift off the throttle, or somethimes under hard accell on the 3-4 shift???



Thats when it happend to one of my HX-40's,

I was racing a trans-am, Pulled real hard from 3rd and went to shift into 4th and "POP":eek: :-laf





Michael
 
I picked up a TiaL from Olee but havent installed it yet since Im not sure how it works... . there is a vaccum line but where the heck do I put it?
 
does anyone know which wire from trans computer/harness does the 3-4 upshift?? auto guys need that one too for a switch as the clutch for standards.
 
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