2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission stops rust PERMANENTLY

[VHolloway]

THIS STUFF WORKS GREAT

www.por-15.com

 

[SKargo]

I have to disagree.

 

[Mopar_Tim]

why do you disagree, i love por15

 

[VHolloway]

we used it on my brothers beach vw bugy he goes to NC fishing on the beach thru salt water and no more rust

it worked great for that little sand bug

it had rust but after we rolled it on no more new rust

but it's not cheap

 

[MBreyer]

Look up www.Rustbullet.com

We've been using it, including the front bumper of #1, and it's all but invincable. (SP??)



~Matt

 

[DLangford]

I have used the specific POR product made for the exhaust manifold and fuel tank sealer on my vintage power wagon restoration. So far so good.

However, when blasting off some Por the previous owner had put on the frame, I noticed that it came off in sheets-delaminated- with very little apparent grip ot he metal in places. IN other words if you angles the abrasive blaster it lifted off very easily. I also found some places where there had been a rock chip and the moisture got under the POR and rust spread under the POR so you could not see it right away.

I then did this experiment (which I showed Pictures of on the Power wagon forum) I took one small part and blasted it and painted it with epoxy primer and hardened urethane. The other small part I painted with POR after doing everything they say to the metal as a prep. THen I dipped both pieces in a warm lye solution. In less that 2 minutes the piece with POR was stripped clean. THe other part looked like nothing had happened.

Conclusion: I have serious concerns about using POR on sheet metal, not because it is not very hard (it is), but because of its questionable adhesiveness to the metal and thus protection.

Over on the autobody forum they recommend blasting and painting with epoxy primer and urethane or polyurethane for durability. If that cannot be done, they recommend Zero Rust. Cheaper than POR and supposedly better.

 

[SKargo]

why do you disagree, i love por15

See DLangford's post above.



My vette's frame rails were done properly with por15. It is delaminating just as described.

I'll try the rust bullet eventually.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

I didnt have very good results with por 15 either. It holds for a while, but when rust comes from the inside out, there isnt a product out there that will stop it. Only way to slow it down is to cut out and replace the sheet metal. I'm sure its probably good for exterior surface rust, but on body panels I have my doubts.

Chris

 

[JoeMartin]

Ok for what its worth, I own a restoration shop and i gotta tell you i get a lot of this stuff with the magical POR 15 because the people start them themselfs and the I get them. The stuff does'nt stick over time worth a snot, makes a mess when you try to work around it. We now either sand blast the selfetch then epoxy/urathane primer. Zero Rust is a great product and can also be mixed and poured into door's ext. The other option is a product call RustMort made by SEM Products, Great stuff works fast at attacking rust in hard to reach places, We will also use LPS for a sealer after we finish, its kinda like cosmaline of the old days..... Just my 3 cents. .

 

[rbattelle]

Some of you guys mentioned the use of an epoxy primer and a hardened urethane topcoat. Please excuse my ignorance, but where can I get these? What brand names are there?



I'm asking because I'm working on painting some old cast iron (which I've cleaned) and want something that will last forever.



-Ryan

 

[HEMI®Dart]

THIS STUFF WORKS GREAT

www.por-15.com

I have to disagree also. I painted my front suspension 5 years ago and 100% of POR-15 has flaked off. Totally gone. I followed the directions exactly like they said. I used the etching fluid, left a little surface rust ect.



I know the road salt is a very tough environment for any paint to stand up to. I won't buy it again.



I recently used Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator on some things. It has very good feedback. Too early to see how it holds up.

 

[VHolloway]

cool will look in to the EAST WOOD stuff

thanks

 

[VHolloway]

is this the stuff www.eastwoodco.com

 

[rbattelle]

Some of you guys mentioned the use of an epoxy primer and a hardened urethane topcoat. Please excuse my ignorance, but where can I get these? What brand names are there?

I ended up with some Sherwin Williams Industrial & Marine Coatings DTM Alkyd. No primer required; apply at least 3-5 mil when dry. ASTM D4060 rating is 50 mg (tested at 1 kg / 1000 cycles). Compare that with the equivalent product from Rustoleum Industrial, which is rated at 76 mg (lower is better). But the Rustoleum has better ASTM D2794 (direct impact) resistance: 50 in-lb for the Sherwin Williams, 100 in-lb for Rustoleum. I guess I'll have to be careful not to smack it with anything.



Now for some strange reason the POR-15 uses the ASTM C501 test for abrasion, so I can't directly compare ratings. What's really strange is the C501 test method is for testing unglazed ceramic tile. I'm assuming they used a taber abraser (as required by C501), but they achieved a rating of 0! Something seems fishy.



Regarding adhesion, the Sherwin Williams product rates 420 psi for ASTM D4541 and 5B for ASTM D3359. Rustoleum doesn't rate their adhesion, nor does POR-15.



For salt fog (ASTM B117) the Sherwin Williams achieved a rating of "10" per ASTM D610. The POR-15 achieved "zero change" (not sure what that means). Rustoleum doesn't provide this data.



Just thought I'd post the results of my short research into the matter... in case anyone cares.



-Ryan