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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Story of 1st fuel filter change, hard starting

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Changed the fuel filter yesterday for the first time at 16,000km - really easy job and no spillage if you pull the cap/filter up slowly and carefully. The old filter was quite black with what I assume is algae, it didn't look like particulate and there was zero sediment in the canister as well.



Restarting was a battle. I cycled the lift pump 3 times by bumping the starter. On the 4th cycle the LP tone changed and I assumed the canister had filled up so I tried starting it. It ran for a few revolutions and then died. It took another 5 or 6 cycles of LP priming and several cranking sessions before it finally started.

I had the LP replaced and it makes 15/10psi at idle so I think it's OK. The truck was pointed uphill slightly so maybe some fuel drained back from the VP44 to the filter canister causing a worse than normal loss of prime.



Anyways for you other diesel beginners, like I said an easy procedure overall so don't put it off if you're nervous and certainly don't pay someone to do it. Get a 1-1/8 box end wrench or socket so you don't break the plastic cap, and a chunk of old garden hose to stick over the useless factory drain tube.



Rich
 
Algae?

Black filter after 10000 mi is normal , but if you found Algae that cause for alarm . Algae is like a smelly jelly or a some say snot ,if this is what you found get some Bio-side at large truck stop store or supply store and put in fuel tank and fuel filter do this at least for two to three tank fulls keep checking the filter . Algae can and will stop up the fuel system to a no go situation and require dropping the tank and steam cleaning . Hope what you found is not Algae Ron Bissett in LOUISVILLE KY Oo.
 
agree with Bissett

That is the exact symtoms of algae in fuel: black. Sometimes i have had trouble finding biocides in truck stops, and when u do :(way) overpriced. I find it reasonably priced at my Peterbilt dealer, or someother truck supply, or truck dealer. I like "killum". Might think about switching fuel dealers as well. . .
 
The filter pleats were discolored black towards the outer edges, but not so much that it blocked light from coming through. There was no snot-like substance that I saw :). I'll see what kind of biocide they carry at Cummins, I need to get more filters and oil there anyways.



Thanks
 
Originally posted by rspinks

The filter pleats were discolored black towards the outer edges, but not so much that it blocked light from coming through. There was no snot-like substance that I saw :). I'll see what kind of biocide they carry at Cummins, I need to get more filters and oil there anyways.



Thanks



Normal, but running some biocide won't hurt anything. Keeping the tank topped off also helps keep fungus from happening. Good luck
 
Hey rspinks,from the description of your filter change,sounds like you didn't fill the filter canister before sealing it. Doing it that way can trap a big bubble of air,that will be pumped right into theVP44,thats why it was hard to start, possibly a dangerous thing to do,You should install the filter,leave the cap off then fill the filter canister, by just turning the key on,the pump will fill the canister,let it over flow. Put the cover backon,leave the pump on open the water drain,just to flush the bottom of the canister. Now you're ready to start it. It should start right up with no air in the VP44.
 
Mdemello you're exactly right, I put the filter cap on with the canister totally dry so that massive volume of air would have to go somewhere. No wonder the VP44 lost prime, at least I didn't crank it too long and I've been running lots of Lubetech in the fuel so hopefully the VP44 didn't mind too much.



I guess to avoid the air bubble you have to fill the canister to the top, either with the LP or manually, and then stick the new filter/cap on. Some diesel will overflow but you can probably get a plastic bag around the filter housing to catch it. I'll know for next time.



Thanks for the info.
 
You could crack open the banjo on the injection pump and bump the starter until the fuel comes out air free. I think that's the recommended proceedure.
 
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Loosening the fitting at the VP44 will cause air to get drawn into the suction line,if you crank it. The VP44 has a small draw at this point. If you're going to loosen it at this point,just turn on the key, without cranking,the lift pump will pressurize the system.
 
mdemello, heres another option. I had the same trouble when I did my first filter change. I now drain the fuel into a clean empty quart oil container. I made a funnel that has a fuel filter/water seperator that I attached to the end. Most marine shops have a version that you can use. Once I've cleaned the filter housing and installed the new filter, I pour the fuel back into the housing and it fills up to the top. Install the filter cap. I haven't had a problem starting or rough idle since. No mess no spill.
 
fmj:

When using your method, do you drain for a while before catching the fuel, or just catch all the comes out? I am asking this because the fuel drain is there to get rid of any water that may be trapped in the cannister right? So if there is any, you are just putting it back in the fuel system?
 
Just out of curiosity. Why cant we just go to the local plant nursery and buy some consentrated algicide/fungicide. Then put some in the tank at small amounts. I am sure the chemicals at that small level shouldnt hurt our pumps or engines, especially if you use a lubricity additive with it.

Someone with a biocide bottle, look for the active ingredient in it, and post it. Then I will check for similar active ingredients in the plant market.
 
raiste, yes I just drain the fuel out. No it doesn't just go back in. Thats why I went and got a water seperator/fuel filter from the marine (boat) supply. By pouring the fuel through the seperator/filter it removes any water and dirt. Hope this clarifies it as I wasn't clear the first time. I can't remember what the part number was on the filter or who made it. I've had it for some time and the numbers are gone. If you go to a marine supply you can find one that looks like a straight thru type filter and match it to your funnel and hose.
 
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