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straps or chains?

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MorRyde Hitch box setup

Weight Formulas

Just curious what the opinions are for straps vs chains for tieing down vehicles such as our trucks? Are there laws saying you have to use chains, or are the heavy duty straps sufficent?

Any suggestions for a good site to look at when I am shopping for either. I have only seend the one that Summit offers.



Thanks,

Ted
 
I personally like the ratchet straps at Home Depot rated to 3,333 pound each (10,000 breaking point). they are $12 and work very well. Keeper brand.
 
I have only ever used the chains and binders method. Personally I would always wonder if the straps were "ok" while I was towing. With the chains, I know the load is secure. Peace of mind I guess.



Don
 
The DOT regulations all state that " load securement devices must be adequate to secure the cargo. " Meaning, straps, chains, etc, must be properly used and strength rated for the cargo being secured.
 
In the towing industry, operators will use a 4 point tie down, plus a "safety" when transporting a vehicle on a "car carrier". A great

place to look for this type of equimpment is at, www.awdirect.com . No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.



Jim
 
When hauling tractors I always use chains/binders. Have had no problems and have hauled from 5k-16. 5k. Take a look at the big rigs, all I have seen is chains. I don't feel that confident in straps.

just my opinion!!!
 
When we haul 40,000lb excavators, it is deffinitely chains.

1. Even though you can get 50,000+LB straps, I can't imagine trying to get the stretch out so it is good and tight,

2. straps can (not saying they always will, just that they can) move easier due to the wind slapping them. If they aren't on right, they can be off in a hurry,

3. never seen a chain fray because it was rubbed against a steel edge,

4. when/if the strap does go ka-boom due to the fray, you don't want to be anywhere near it, never mind at one end tightening it with a ratchet (I can verify this as I have seen a strap bury itself into an a/c cooler. Had to dig it out with a screwdriver = no more a/c cooler. :eek:
 
For commercial requirements, see here. Scroll down to section 393. 100.

http://www.fmcsa. dot.gov/rulesregs/fmcsr/regs/393.htm

However, I don't think that site is up to date on the changes which became affective on Jan 1st. For that info, go here.

http://www.fmcsa. dot.gov/safetyprogs/cs.htm

I think commercial or not, it would prudent to follow these regs for any kind of towing and hauling due to the ever present threat of an accident and being sued.



I have always used chains or straps, sometimes both depending on the load. For sprung vehicles, I like to use cross tied straps pulling away from both ends of the vehicle. This allows the vehicle to flex some. For equipment or big steel beams, it's always chains. Straps work fine with lumber and bundled metal items.



Dispose of frayed straps. Like someone said, they are dangerous and will take you out. Stretched chains need to find a different home too.
 
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I think the biggest factor is the load, what is it you are trying to secure?? I use both, and it just depends on the load as to which method I employ.

For Cars, ATV's I like ratcheting straps. The cars, trucks take at least a 2" wide strap and I like to use the 10,000lb models. Most of the times I will position the straps so they are low to the vehicle (use an axle strap) while having them extent out in front of the vehicle and crossing, same in the rear.







Some times the Tire bonnets are used, they go over the tires and secure directly in front of and behind the tires.



I think chains need to be used when the load is very heavy and or when the material being secured is likely to cut,rip, tear or fray the straps. If you do use chains, go with quality chain binders. The threaded ones are the best to me. If you use a normal binder, I like to secure the handle when ready to roll (a Ty-wrap works great), this way if a little slack develops the binder will not fly open. It is also necessary to make sure that what you are attaching your strap/chain too, will hold the load. This is not a job for the . 89 cent 3/8 eye ring, Properly mounted floor D-rings, E-track or stake pockets work well, as long as they are designed to handle the load you are asking of it.
 
Take your tiedown points into consideration when you go shopping for your tiedowns too.



For stake pockets, I like to feed my chain/strap down through the pocket and up between the rubrail and sideframe then hook it on the pocket. For straps, I buy flat "J" hooks and come up the outside to clip the pocket. That way gravity holds your hook in place in the event you get some slack. For "D" rings, use the hooks with a safety latch.



A properly placed bungee can tension your tiedown when there is a lot of flex too.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.



One more question, Today I saw some straps that had a max capacity of 10,000 lbs, but a working capacity of 3333 lbs. What's the difference?



Thanks,

Ted
 
I must agree with the folks who said it depends on the load. if your hauling some pallets of ceder shingles then straps are better because they wont hurt the shingles but if your hauling some thing such as a truck or an excavator chains. use your judgement. aw-direct is a great place to get every thing for trucks,towingect. to secure our trucks i would suggest getting actual vehicle tow chains if your rig is on the trailer regularly with r hooks on the end. I drive a tow truck. so trust me these are the best way to secure a vehicle. one at each corner.
 
Hi Ted,



I use both. :D



Rather have way more than i need, than not enough. If i had to choose one over the other for securing one of our trucks, it would definitely be chains over straps.



JMO,



Chris
 
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