Archived Stress cracked block

[BTPitt]

I started smelling coolant and found the right side weeping. Coolant tested to be good to -48 degrees. The local diesel shop said they've only seen this twice before. The crack is 2. 5 inches long and 3 inches below the soft plugs,in the middle of the block,and runs horizontally under the step of the block.



It's in a '97 3500, 5 Spd. , 152,000 miles. 3:55 gears, Gear Vendor overdrive, BD Exhaust Brake, 325 Hp. , 4" exhaust, 255/85 R 16 tires, Transfer Flow tank.



Is this a common Cummins issue? Is there a Repair for this or will I be sending my block to the local scap yard?

 

[mberry]

Do a search for "53" block issues. Check your serial number of your engine block to see if you have a 53. There may be remedies available from Cummins.



This is not a common Cummins issue.

 

[BTPitt]

The tag on the front cover engine # 56320246. No "53". Should I check casting # on block? If so, where would I find it?

 

[tractorface]

53???

Look above the oil pan just below the injection pump. Sounds like a 53 to me. Real curious to hear. If it is I believe Cummins is still contributing to repairs. It would be worth your time to search these forumns for "53" You will find numbers to call etc.

Good luck

 

[rashwor]

Judging from the serial number, his is a "56" block and this is the first one of these I have heard of cracking.



Do a search. There are several repair options. If it is the same crack as the "53" blocks (sounds like it is) it is a crack in the water jacket and not actually in the block itself. It can be patched. Good luck.

 

[tractorface]

I don't think the serial number is any indicator of the number cast in the block, but I have been wrong before.

 

[Joe Mc]

I've had a cast block crack repaired before. You have to drill all the way through each end of the crack to stop it from spreading. In your case if the freeze pis where it stops by-pass the drilling at that end. The crack needs to have a v-groove ground pretty far into it's depth. The welder that did the one I'm referencing used a stick welder but, before he welded anything he heated the crack up with a torch until the metal was cherry red, then he welded the crack while keeping the tourch in front as he fed the stick to keep the cast hot. He said this was to provide better flow and penetration of material. Never had a problem for the remaining years I had the auto. This was 20+ years ago. Not sure if this would be appropriate for you, access would be the main issue. Unless you were up for removing/raising engine to provide access. Good luck to you.

 

[BTPitt]

So far the only numbers I've found on left side of block are "13J6". I don't think this helps but, the Reference # on the tag is "53040142". Could this be what I'm looking for?

I have e-mailed Cummins, but no response yet. I will let you all know what, if any, answers or help I get from them.

 

[tractorface]

Try the link below.

http://www.stamey.nu/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

 

[BTPitt]

Well, guess what guys, Cummins says this isn't a common problem. Seems that there are a lot of people that know about this not-so common problem. That's strange! The way I was treated at Cummins makes the Power Strokes a whole more Attractive!

Next call is to Dodge. This will seal the deal for me.



PS. This does not apply to "53" Engines only

 

[keimmmo]

I wrote in another thread just a little while ago, but I worked for an auto parts store with a machine shop years ago. I watched the old machinest there pin a number of cracked heads... and every one of them held just fine! He would drill a hole in the crack and thread it, screw in a brass bolt with #1 Permatex on the threads to help seal it, cut it off with a sharp chisel, and drill the next hole to just overlap the last bolt. By overlaping the bolts, it makes them impossible to come out!



I know you would have to remove some parts to gain access, but if I had a cracked block, I sure would try it! Good luck!



Steve

 

[tractorface]

http://www.belzona.com/



We have used this companies products for tank repair in the past. I am not sure if they have a product that will fix the cracked block but I have an inquiry in with them. They sell stuff similar to JB weld but much better. They have specific compounds for different applications. They will not tell you the product will work if it will not.

Worth a shot.

 

[BTPitt]

Muggy Weld Says they have the right welding rod for this (#77). I think I'm going to try this. It seems like a GOOD fix. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks to all for your input.

 

[tractorface]

Please make sure you let us know how it works out. I know I am rooting for you as I have a "53"

 

[brianMo]

This "not so common problem" seems to be real common, as of late. My leaky 53 is going to be fixed with locknstitch in the next couple of weeks. I have sent pictures, and the guy seems to think it will be an easy fix. I need to drive 2 hours from KC, MO. to get the experience I need. Cummins is only contributing $1000. 00 toward an approved repair. This would be a block change. I have already tryed to see if they would contribute to locknstitch. They never got back with me. No news means no, I guess. I will try again. Anyway... the way I understand is they are only contributing between 100k to 150k miles. I think they must get inundated with phone calls about this. Good luck! I will let you all know how mine turns out! It does however, put a very sour taste in my mouth for DC and Cummins. I wish you the best.



Brian

Missouri