2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stripped Box-Frame Nut

[StephenDelany]

I hate it when this happens!!!



Just finished installing the new steering box brace from Marv at Windecker. Kit is very nicely finished and fit like a glove. Only problem is probably my fault... For some reason one of the bolts that is used to secure the Stabilizer. Bar and new bracket has stripped out the thread of the net INSIDE the box-frame.



I think that I am going to try to re-cut this nut inside the frame for 11mm thread with a tap and use a bigger bolt. how does this sound / any suggestions.



I just can't understand why it happened because this bolt was the least troublesome to get started in it's thread and was not yet really torqued down..... RATS!

 

[EBottema]

I agree, cut the nut bigger and tap one or two sizes larger.



I hope you learned your lesson, next time no drinking while working around hardware. LOL just kidding.

 

[StephenDelany]

I wish!!,



I didn't even open the first beer of the day until an hour after the job.



Thanks for the feed-back. I think the nut re-cut plan should work too.



Steve

 

[jrobinson2]

Sometimes if you switch from metric to SAE you can go 1/2 size instead of a full size larger when rethreading. You can also use a Heli-coil to repair back to the existing thread size



Jared.

 

[StephenDelany]

Thanks jrobinson2,



Those are a couple of great suggestions.



I was just a little bummed last night thinking about it, but I guess I should be able to restore it without too much trouble. It was just the idea that the nut was inside the box-frame where I can never get at it that had me a little tweaked.

 

[Walt-L]

Fishin fool;

How long did it take for you to get your track bar bracket from Windecker? I mailed them a check on 4/14/05, E-mailed "marv" twice -no reply-and there is no answer at their phone number. I was going to see if they are still in business on this forum when I saw your post. Did you actual comunicate with these folks? or just waited untill the parts came in the mail?

Just wonderin

Thanks

Walt

 

[EBottema]

Walt- I feel your pain.



I ordered mine on the second to last day of the GP. I got an email on 4/5 about a computer problem and he needed to know the year of my truck. Like that matters. Well, I figured no big deal. I emailed him around the 18th of april and demanded a tracking number since it has taken to long. He said he was sorry and would get me the tracking number in a few days. Finally got it last week sometime but never did get a tracking number from him. His customer service really stinks. I mean the first mess up, no big deal, but promising me a tracking number but never sending it, that wrong. Hope you get it!

Erik

 

[RPosey]

What size bolt? If it is 3/8 (. 375) and you will replace with 11 mm (. 433) , the difference will only be . 058 of thread engagement, divided by 2, which will only leave . 024" of metal for thread engagement, assuming the new bolt threads don't split the old thread. I assume 3/8 bolt is course thread at 16 threads to the inch or . 062 space between threads. If the 11 mm bolt is 11x1. 0 then the thread space will be . 039, 11x1. 25 thread space will be . 049, 11x1. 5 thread space will be . 059 . Do the math and you will see where each metric thread will be relative to the SAE thread. Still . 025 thread engaugement is not much.

 

[Walt-L]

EBottema,

Whew, I was startin to feel like the sheep with the red X painted on his butt (the ones that kick). Now I know Im not the only one. But just what does GP mean?

Thanks

Walt

 

[wlowe]

For those of you who haven't installed your steering brace yet here are a few suggestions. When I installed mine I did it this way. First, I took out each individual stabilizer bolt, liberaly covered it with anti-seize, reinstalled it, then did the same to the next bolt. By reinstalling the bolt you get a good coating on the hole threads. After all the bolts were coated I then removed them. Before installing the brace I coated the new bolts with anti-seize also.

The problem lies with the fact that the bolt holes are difficult to line up due to the weight and torsion of the stabilizer bar and steering brace. The anit-seize stops the bolt threads from galling against the hole threads when miss-aligned, reducing the chance for crossthreading.



Good Luck

Bill

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

When I removed my stablizer once the bolt simply sheared off they were that frozen in place (assembly line monkey had it misaligned and ran it in with the impact I'm sure). I drilled it out and used a heli-coil kit to fix the threads - worked great. Do use anti seize when you put the bolt back in after the heli-coil or that will freeze up too.

 

[StephenDelany]

I got my stabilizer in about two weeks from the date that I ordered it. I had them send it Express shipping, but it was probably not worth the extra expense.



The suggestions from wlowe above are really good. If I did it again I would follow his advice exactly. As it turned out it was prety simple to run a tap into the stripped nut that was encased in the frame and replace the 10mm x 1. 5 bold that came with the braket with a new 7/16 forged bolt from Napa. Cost of Tap and bolt... $5. 00. Everything sucked up tight and looks great.



I guess my steering was still in good shape after 89,000 miles because I am not sure that I can feel a difference in the way she behaves going down the highway, but, I know it's better than it was new. . and that is worth it to me.



Windecker's (www.soildsteel.ca) kit is top notch and I would reccommend it to anyone who is interested in improving or upgrading the front end parts.



Thanks for all the input on this little bug in the job.



Steve

 

[jrobinson2]

Fishin fool;

How long did it take for you to get your track bar bracket from Windecker? I mailed them a check on 4/14/05, E-mailed "marv" twice -no reply-and there is no answer at their phone number. I was going to see if they are still in business on this forum when I saw your post. Did you actual comunicate with these folks? or just waited untill the parts came in the mail?

Just wonderin

Thanks

Walt

I received two braces from Marv 5/3/05, the invoice was dated 4/14/05, I don't remember exactly when I ordered them it was a few days after the "group buy" officially ended, probably late in the first week of april, maybe later. I called him today around 3:00pm PST and he answered on the third ring the first time I tried.



Sorry, I didn't think to mention that some here were concerned.



Jared

 

[Walt-L]

I did finaly get Marv on the phone, And as he said he is a one man operation and apologized for the delay. He found my check in a stack of letters and said he would get it right out AND through in the bearing kit for the stearing box I asked about so I can weld up my own stabilizer plate to the plow frame. On that, I will mail him a check when I get it! All in All the guy is very accomadating. Hopefully I'll have the parts soon since the track bar just came in (was back ordered).

 

[jrobinson2]

What size bolt? If it is 3/8 (. 375) and you will replace with 11 mm (. 433) , the difference will only be . 058 of thread engagement, divided by 2, which will only leave . 024" of metal for thread engagement, assuming the new bolt threads don't split the old thread. I assume 3/8 bolt is course thread at 16 threads to the inch or . 062 space between threads. If the 11 mm bolt is 11x1. 0 then the thread space will be . 039, 11x1. 25 thread space will be . 049, 11x1. 5 thread space will be . 059 . Do the math and you will see where each metric thread will be relative to the SAE thread. Still . 025 thread engaugement is not much.

It won't work on all sizes and changing metric to SAE seems to work more often, I've never tried to change an SAE to a metric so I don't know if any size will work that way. I check the correct size drill bit for the new tap size in the stripped hole. I usually like to see at least 90% of the old thread removed with the drill, all of it on a high stress bolt. The swaybar mount bolts are 10mm, they drill and tap to 7/16" quite well, I usually re-tap to fine thread because the minor diameter is larger so you have a bit more margin. I have changed 6mm to 1/4" fine thread a few times and have also tapped 12mm fine to 1/2" fine without re-drilling on a housing that is impossible to heli-coil in place on several machines.



Jared