Stripped Pyro install

[Pull'nOld Iron]

You can just imagine how stupid I feel but here it goes. I was installing a pyro gauge post turbo and while installing the 1/8" nipple fitting it broke right into two. Need to get another locally.

Here's my question. I think I can relocate to the inboard side of the elbow, about 2 o'clock, currently 10 o'clock. But what about this hole now. Will JB weld do the trick or should I drill it out bigger and step down the fitting.

Feeling stupid, can't believe it broke, I wasn't gripping so tight, hell the boost gauge is tighter. Any thoughts!

This is my daily driver and I'm taking it to work tomorrow. I ran it for a while and nothing seemed to be creating a problem. I was noticing hot air, dah, but will this create a hot spot and burn a hole?

I was going to go pre-turbo but can't get to the underside bolts to place a blind in before the turbo to protect it from the shavings. Is this a must do for pre-turbo applications?

Please don't laugh too hard, well go ahead my ol'man would've.

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Tim Jungles
Brandon MS(currently)
99 White Sport, westin side bars, hide-a-ball bed hitch

 

[trning]

You probably need to extract the fitting. JB weld won't hold up to the temp. of the exhaust manifold.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

JB weld MIGHT work, but i dont think for long, your best bet is drill and tap it larger and use a plug, or have it brazed shut. As a quick fix, try JB Weld with a bolt to plug most of the hole.
As for drilling pre Turbo, you dont have to use a blind or remove the turbo, just go slow, use a magnet, and lots of grease on the tap and drill bit. What few pieces you miss will blow out the turbo on startup.
I have installed close to a dozen on everything from Rams to Grand Nationals and NEVER removed a turbo to do it and never had a problem. The turbo is not spinning fast enough to cause damage.

 

[dresslered]

First of all, it is no big deal. At very worst, the elbow will not be too expensive. In fact, there are probably many spares laying around from those who have installed E-Brakes.

Have a machine shop extract the nipple. The threads might be alright. If that doesn't do the trick, tap it out to 1/4" and use a reducer (my pyro is 1/4"). Because of the tapered threads and the extreme temperature changes, do not over-tighten the next one. Just think of it as a spark plug-just tight enoough. Good luck,

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins ETH/DEE, SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine + diff. temp. ), Autometer Ultra-Lite (electric fuel pressure, vacuum), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, SmittyBilt Outland Sport Bumper Gaurd, 2-LO kit, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper. "Do it in a Dually"

 

[Bill Kondolay]

We have about 10 kicking around just call no charge

 

[RobbyRam]

I agree, just drill and tap for a 1/4" NPT. then screw in a 1/4" that has a 1/8" NPT threaded hole in the middle, and that will work great! That's the 'post turbo' set-up I have.
By the way, I visited two trucker friends last night around a campfire at 'Pi Pi' Valley,CA,USFS campground and they couldn't even contemplate having a 'pre-turbo gauge, because, every tractor-trailer rig they have ever owned and/or driven has only had a post- turbo gauge. Their shift-down temp is 1100 degrees post turbo. My shift-down temp is 800 degrees post-turbo.

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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[roadranger]

Also, our ISB's have aluminum alloy pistons, the big rigs have steel.

 

[trning]

The big cummins engines also have aluminum pistons-M-11, N14, etc

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

Thanks all!

She's fixed!

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Tim Jungles
Brandon MS(currently)
99 White Sport, westin side bars, hide-a-ball bed hitch

 

[EMDDIESEL]

If you read back on other posts, the whole "Tractor trailers have there EGT gauges Post turbo" issue was WELL covered. In case you have forgotten, You dont drive a tractor trailer, tractor trailers dont use the ISB, Tractor trailers dont have performance fueling boxes and injectors.

The engines on over the road trucks are engineered for one thing, Hauling heavy loads, not racing Ford Powerstrokes or cruising around the neighborhood. They are set up to do ONE job and therefore, installing the Thermocouple anywhere is fine, since it will be calibrated for that specific application in wherever the Thermocouple location is. In the Ram, most people have multi stage fueling boxes that allow you to set it up for towing, performance, etc, etc. Or may only tow a trailer once a week, then go racing the next day, then drive around town in stop and go traffic the next. Since it is constantly changing you need accurate CONSISTENT EGT readings.
This is not my own opinion, you can also ask, Banks, Jannetty Racing, TST (A Cummins engineer for 16 years) and others, they all reccomend PRE Turbo setups. This was covered many times while in the Diesel schools i went to.
If your truck is bone stock, and will remain that way, post turbo is fine. If you will be adding injectors, boxes, bigger turbos, etc, you want PRE turbo or if you want, Both Pre and Post.