Archived Stuck in limp mode. 1753

[DFrank]

So i had been having some transmission issuers.

I had had replaced the solenoid and the transducer.

It it was running great.

Just st driving it up a pass with a camper and as it went to down shift on the tunnel approach, it went into limp mode.

Sounds like i need an actuator maybe.

Right ht now I feel if I could reset the codes it would probably drive ok if I am
careful to manually down shift maybe.

If if anyone has ideas one how I can do that I'd be appreciative.

I I could limp over the pass and into Silverthorne, but that puts me farther away from home if I end up towing it. Could limp to Idaho springs, but can't find anyone there on a Saturday.

Thanks,

dave. 720/298/2242 if anyone wants to call with suggestions.

Its the 05 dually with 48re.

 

[petersonj]

Hopefully you will be getting a phone call from Curt at High Country Auto Specialist in Silverthorne. He doesn't specialize in automatic transmissions, but he is very knowledgeable and offers excellent customer service.

He is located at 150 13th St (13th and Hwy 9 north of the freeway). His phone number is (970) 470-2324.

- John

 

[DFrank]

Thanks John. Your friend Kurt did indeed call me, and offered to reset my codes if I made it to his shop.

I had already tucked tail and started driving back east, and thankfully the transmission ws mostly cooperative.


The truck is safely in my driveway.

It shifted all but flawlessly as I drove I 70 east, through a mix of mostly down hill, but a couple big climbs.

I used the Tow Haul button when the truck might have wanted to down shift, but after it would have wanted to go back into 4th, it did it on its own, with t T/H still engaged.


The last leg from Golden to Boulder was the worst. It never got past 2nd gear after golden. This was painful, but under 20 miles. I think I would have called the tow truck if I had to drive it in first.

I drove it to the Dealer in Golden to try to have them reset the codes and look to pick up a TTVA.

The old codes that I hadn't cleared went away, but 1753 stayed and 1751 chimed in.


I am not 100% sure I should replace this part. It was $400+. I can return it, if I don't install it.

What else should I try to diagnose before either taking it to my mechanic, or just putting this part in and see if it fixes it?

I guess my 911 call is done, but problem not necessarily solved.

 

[petersonj]

I'm glad that you made it home without a tow. Just be patient and some one should chime in with some recommendations for how you might proceed from here. There are a couple of very knowledgeable transmission subscribers who regularly monitor this forum and can help guide you to a solution to your transmission problem.

I just reviewed some other posts and I see that you have already connected with one of the very knowledgeable subscribers. You are in good hands!

- John

 

[p-Bar]

crawl under driver side of your truck look up on the transmission and you will see a ttva throttle valve accuator. remove two blots holding it on. push up on it after rotating it out away from the transmission check the linkage moves freely for 45 degrees. make sure the d shaped plastic D shaped connector on the ttva is not cracked. so linkage is good and free moving. now disconnect the electric connector and test pin 5 its numbered in the connector for momentary 12volts when the key is turned on your going to need a helper its right when the key is flipped to the on position if no 12 volt present check your wire harness make sure its not grounded out. if its not grounded out then its 99.9% your ECM has pooped. look on ebay for a vin coded reman unit and hold on to your wallet. if you have 12volts at the connector its 99.9% your ttva has pooped and its also a ride at he dodge dealer.

 

[DFrank]

Thanks P-Bar.

I installed a new TTVA this afternoon, but it didn't help. Truck stayed in first gear, two out of three starts. The one time it shifted to 2nd, I could not get it to hot third.

Would it have hit 2nd at all if the TTVA were not engaged to the shaft below?

There are two things that I am suspicious of: it didn't feel like the TTVA dropped down onto the shaft, but the bolts lined up, so I figured I got it down low enough.

I read something about 30 seconds of power to calibrate, but I didn't do that before starting.

The other obvious possibilities are a damaged wire or a bad ECM.

What other possibilities am I overlooking?

Thanks.

 

[p-Bar]

Dave do the checks that I wrote about this should help you troubleshoot it . it us back with the results. You can use a test light or voltmeter

 

[cerberusiam]

The TTVA fits tight on the shaft, if the bolts lined up it is on far enough. The TTVA recalibrates every time you turn the key on so just turn it on for 30 seconds without starting then turn the key off.

Do you still have any codes? The 1751 and 1753 should be gone now if the motor was the problem, if you still have codes there is still a problem somewhere.

You can pull the TTVA off the shaft and just tie it up somewhere for a test. Without the TTVA on the shaft the trans should shift thru all gears but it will be short shifting on every gear with the lack of TV pressure. If you still don't get shifts there is a trans problem, either mechanically or the transducer is pooched again.

 

[DFrank]

Not sure if its permanent, but truck is fixed and running great. All codes cleared.

I replaced TTVA and used Edge to clear codes.

Thanks!

 

[Motorhead]

I was going to suggest using a programmer that also reads and clears codes. For that matter, you might invest in a code scanner if you don't have one in a programmer and keep it in the truck. I was getting the "Low Boost" limp mode where the engine would cut way back on power. I would plug in my Smarty jr and clear the code and be on my way. Just a suggestion.

 

[DFrank]

So, I hadn't had a chance to drive this truck much since "fixing "it.

It runs great until it does an automatic 4th to 3rd shift pulling a hill. right after this happens, the CE light comes on, but it didn't go into limp mode. It drives fine until you slow down, or maybe stop. Then it doesn't shift out of first on time or out of 2nd at all, until I pull over and clear the codes with the edge controller.

This happened three times on last weekends drive. Until this resolves, I will just try to hit tow/ haul preemptively and avoid the issue.

The code it throws is 1753, which is TTVA related still.

Any other suggestions? Thanks.

 

[cerberusiam]

I think you probably need to drop the VB and work on it. A lot of the TTVA codes will be the result of the TV valve in the VB sticking, known issues and Sonnax has a fix for it. Since this is happening on a down shift when the TTVA is advancing a lot I suspect that might be the source of the problem.

 

[DFrank]

Thanks Cerb. Would this Sonnax kit be an easy install?

ive replaced 3 parts so far: the transducer, the solenoid and now the TTVA. All indicated by codes thrown, but im having doubts as to whether any of them
were actually bad, as the TTVA code returns, and the first gear issue had corrected itself (maybe only temporarily) before I replaced the solenoid and transducer.

Is is there a way for a shop to diagnose the potential VB issues or would they just be throwing parts at it like I've been doing and hoping one of them actually fixes it?

 

[cerberusiam]

The sticking TV valve is a pain to find until it gets really bad, then you can feel it hang when you manually operate the TV lever. When it is intermittent like you describe it is probably happening when the trans gets to operating temp. The TTVA motors do not like and restriction when moving or they hang then the TCM thinks the motor is bad, a lot of times it is the TV valve in the VB that is hanging. If the bore is worn then the over size kit should be used and that requires reaming, http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1834-oversized-throttle-valve-kit. If just the pieces worn then you can install the update kit, http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1833-throttle-valve-kit, or the HD kit, http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1846-heavy-duty-throttle-valve-kit.

It is possible a bad connection is the issue or you even managed to get 2 bad TTVA's, but, that is not something that is the norm. We have 2 trucks both ~ 250k and still the OE TTVA motors that we have taken apart multiple times and reset advance on. On one truck the locking tab is broke on the connector and we just zip tie it tight. The motors seem to be solid and connections don't seem to be an issue. The recurring problems I have seen took a VB fix with the Sonnax Sure Cure kit to get rid of the issues, we suspected a hanging TV valve but could never feel it when testing.

 

[DFrank]

Thanks for the detailed description, I sure appreciate it!

Would the codes thrown that indicated the solenoid and transducer that I already replaced be related or provide a clue to a bigger (ECU maybe?) problem?

 

[cerberusiam]

The only codes you have now are for the TTVA, correct? The transducer are junk and they will code even with new ones if they are bad out of the box. Anything you have posted indicates a problem on the VB, as far as I can tell.

 

[DFrank]

i drove the truck to Utah this weekend, and if I use tow/haul to shift it out of overdrive before it decides to, I was able to avoid the CEL and the TTVA code.

If I let it auto downshift form OD to 3rd, the CEL comes on about ten seconds later, and stays on until I clear the codes with the Edge insight.

The other issue is that Tow/Haul does not lock it out of overdrive. Pressing Tow/ Haul will force the downshift, but it will not force it to stay in 3rd. Even with Tow/ haul engaged it will shift back to OD just as easily as it would without the button engaged.

Might this indicate other issues, or help with further diagnosis.

I think I will get the Sonnax kit for the VB and see if that helps, but for how much I drive this truck at present, the symptoms are not such that an immediate fix is required.

Once the code is tripped, it sometimes drives normally, and sometimes sees slight loss of power, but not full limp mode. Sometimes it can keep shifting normally, but if I get back down to first gear, it may not shift past second until a reset of codes.

Is there a way to move this out of 911, or will that just confuse things. This is not a 911 issue any longer, but this is where I started the thread.

Thanks,

 

[DFrank]

So I am still having some issues with this.

I always drive it in Tow haul mode, and it usually shifts ok, but sometimes it shifts form OD to 2nd and redlines, struggling to settle into 3rd. *


Sometimes this throws those codes again, but usually not. *If it does I can clear them out with the edge insight module.

Today I saw the CEL, and when I checked the codes it said P2509, which is ECU Supply Voltage intermittent.

IT was suggested earlier that Maybe I needed a new ECU. * Does this hint at that, or some other condition that is causing that code? *I did just have complete battery discharge.

i have another post about that, and have no idea if these are related, thought it seems reasonable that they might.

I just noticed that this is still in 911 forum, but don't really know the protocol for keeping the thread, yet moving it out of 911 forum.

 

[p-Bar]

Have you cleaned all the ground cables to the body and engine?

 

[Bob4x4]

the 05 t/haul switch is not designed to lock out od.That came in 06.With the 05 there is a flash that allows you to decide if you want tow /haul or od lock out by using a drb.You can not get both at once.

p2509 Loss of voltage detected at the ECM for a calibrated amount of time.

Possible Causes
POOR CONNECTIONS AT THE BATTERIES
LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE
OPEN FUSED B+ TO ECM
OPEN GROUND CIRCUIT
BATTERY + SHORTED TO OTHER CIRCUITS
RETURN CIRCUIT SHORTED
BATTERY + SHORTED TO GROUND