Stuck oil drain plug

[Cooker]

Kroil!
I don't know how much it will help here though.

Did you try it when warm or cold? I would imagine if it was warm you might have a better chance. Just a thought.

Ryan

 

[Eric_77]

You must pull the engine or the transmission to replace the pan. Your best bet is the transmission most transmission shops will do it for a couple hundred bucks. I had to do it last summer due to cross threaded drain plug. #ad
At least I made it worthwile and had TC and VB installed at the time. #ad

 

[illflem]

Mine is also hard to get out at times also even though I don't use a torque wrench on it nor overtighten. You have to use a high quality socket drive or it will bend. I usually use a two foot 1/2" drive breaker bar with a Proto 1/2"x 3/8" adaptor on it and it comes off without too much effort. I use a 8" long socket drive to retighten. Do it while the engine is warm, if it seems like it is still taking too much torque to loosen it heat the plug with a propane torch or heat gun. You really don't want to damage the pan, the transmission has to be removed to change it.

 

['956Wheel]

Quite often a bit of impact will free up most anything when pulling won't. If you have an air impact with an adjustment you can C A R E F U L L Y get it loose if it takes much STOP. A tap with a hammer on a loaded up breaker bar works well too! YOU MUST BE CAREFUL, OR DO NOT DO IT! Mine needed a little "massage" to free it up.

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9535hundred

 

[Tackett]

I bought a used '97 4x4. While trying to change the oil, I found that the drain plug is really stuck. So stuck, that I think somebody used JB Weld on it. Stuch enough that I bent the socket extention I was using. I feel that if it does come out, it's going to tear the threads out with it.

Any options that don't involve buying a new pan?

Also, can the pan be replaced without pulling the engine?

Thanks.

 

[rhoads]

Sounds like some one took this thing to a quickie oil change. OR some Low payed nerd at a d/c shop had more musles or a 120 lb weakling with a 3 ft cheater bar.
HOW_EVER-
If you can see no thing on the/around-the pan plug--First take a small screw driver and dig out all crud of the plug square hole(3/8) now take a 3/8th or 1/2 inpack wrenchw/ a 3/8th adaptor ---make sure it is in the reverse/counter-wise position--Insert solidly-wnen you know it is enbedded give a quick trigger and it should spin loose without damage to the pan/plug.
I have a 96 and the origanal plug. Check miles.
If you insert a driver and have a 6" handle the avg torque effort by the avg holder(person) is 60ft lb. no matter the size of the fastner.
Did you ever wonder why the larger the head size of the fastner the longer the handle was. KNOW you know.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
750,000 miles

 

[walmor]

Tackett, get a Oxy,Acyt combo and put a 0 or 00 welding tip on the torch and apply heat to just the plug. When it just starts to glow back it out. It will come right out.
Throw the plug away and get a new one. Put a little Antisize on the new one. Also replace the gasket on the plug regularly.
Sometimes it tears and it leaks after you have just put in 11 qts of oil. The first inclination is to really put some *** on it to get it to stop leaking. Mine didn't so I had to drain my new oil out into a clean bucket and replace the 54 cent gasket.

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91 D350,New style BD Brake,Gear Vendors O/U Drive,Gauges-Pyro,boost,tach,trans,rearend,brake,
Airbag rear,Transfer flow tool/tank, Exh. sys,Rino lined bed, Alcoa Mags,SS runningboards.
16cm.