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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Studs install Price?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) a little help gauge readings

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo Questions

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What should the ball park price of having studs installed be? I know that the studs themselves run around 400. What should the cost of labor//tapping the block be? Just curious b/c I am throwing around the idea or having set put it and I just want to make sure that I dont get taken to the cleaners on it. Thanks... .
 
You don't need to tap the block if your gonna run 12mm studs you should be able to install 12s yourself I put 14mm studs in mine just cause I rebuilt the engine and had it out plus I got a good deal on them I think 12mm studs would be fine I guess it depends on what you want to do with your truck.
 
I just dont want the head gasket coming off. I have hit 52-53 psi as it is right now on a hard pull. Thats with my smarty on 2... and I am going to install M4s shortly. I just want to be able to use whats in my sig with M4s instead of whats in there now and not have to worry about the HG.
 
You don't need to tap the block if your gonna run 12mm studs you should be able to install 12s yourself



If you do not bottom tap the block you will cutting your valve cover where you can see your front two head bolts now, and you will see some of the studs will be up higher and lower while putting them in.



You are better off getting it bottom tapped.
 
You can install 12mm studs without taking the head off. Just change them 1 at a time. You must follow the torque procedure and the following retorques.
 
If you do not bottom tap the block you will cutting your valve cover where you can see your front two head bolts now, and you will see some of the studs will be up higher and lower while putting them in.



You are better off getting it bottom tapped.





I am not disaggreeing with you about bottom tapping. Recommendations for doing it or not come from all sides. I did not bottom tap and I also did not need to cut the valve cover. The fit is close on my truck, but they fit and the valve cover seals. However, I did make a mistake early on in the install and had to pull one stud back out because I put a short one in the wrong place.



Jim
 
It took me about 6 hours to bottom tap and install studs, with the head on. Remember too you will have to pay for a couple of re-torques. I don't know what the hourly rate is in your area, but that should give you an idea.



You didn't ask, but IMO anything over about 50 psi, or 500hp, and you should o-ring, on a 2nd gen 24V.



Paul
 
I don't know what brand of studs you guys are useing I'm thinking maybe arp the 14mm I'm running are A-1s I did bottom tap the block just because I had to redrill and tap for the over size studs but my A-1 studs had abought 1/2 to 3/8" of blank at the bottom that was turned down smaller than threads so I don't think it would've mattered with the bottom tap as far as o-ring I don't really care for them I think they are more trouble than their worth I'm running a commetic mls on mine have a fried that has built to common rail trucks with twins and says their good for 70psi they also have a fuzion head gasket that has a gas filled ring that fits between the head and block like a fire ring the gas is supposed to expand with heat and put more pressure on the head and block if you are going through all this trouble you need to go ahead and check the flatness on the deck (top of block) and have your head cheked and surfaced that is the important factor keeping a head gasket on the thing a good smooth flat suface sorry this is so long look up www.commetic.com call them if you can't find what you need they are very helpfull and you can buy factory dirrect.
 
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Any other imput? So am I good with just putting in a set of 12mm studs? What all do I need?



Commetic MLS gasket and the studs 12mm... . 14mm require lots of work and are not worth it in my opinion. If you want something stronger go for the 625 series stud but your talking about 900-1000 per set. this set up(mls plus 12mm) is simple and straight forward and great for a daily driven truck. My 3rd gen with a factory mls gasket and 12mm studs holds 70 plus lbs day in and out and has been proven by many of those with high powered trucks. As it was mentioned in the above post... check the block(deck) to make sure it is within spec! Have the head resurfaced to make sure it is flat as can be. You may or may not wanna change valve seals and upgrade springs since the head will be off. Other than that you should be good to know. As a side note, I have seen 24v 2nd gen trucks with low 500 hp and still on stock bolts and gasket.





Richard
 
I agree with raychem completly 12mm is all you need I wouldn't have used 14mm in mine but I got a deal on them and I had the engine torn down for a rebuild but make sure you get the block and head checked also when we rebuilt my head we left the valve seals off the exhaust valves the guy doing my machine work said every 24V head he has done has bad valve guids due to how hot they get and says the valve seals are to tight and don't let the valve stem get enough oil don't know if this is true but I'd rather burn a little oil than wear out the guids agin and I havn't noticed it burning excess oil ya I know once you start bombing your truck it's a nver ending process. :eek:
 
Next question... I went to their site and they only show these:

Domestic Auto

I guess that I want to get the 12v hg? What about the Phuzion hg? Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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The stock head gasket on my 02 started leaking running at 510 hp, and 48psi on a single turbo. This was with studs. Granted it was after about 300 1/4 passes. I have about 1200 1/4 passes since o-ringing the head without a problem. The last 1000 or so have been at ~640hp. People have gotten away with more hp, but I didn't, and of course people have gotten away with less.



Third gens are a completely different animal. My 05 (see sig), has the stock MLS head gasket. 600 hp on the stock head bolts and gasket are not uncommon, and 800hp with the ARP 2000 studs seems to work. Above 800hp and the New Age 625's are a good recommendation.



The ARP New Age 625 studs are a significant improvement over the ARP 2000 studs, but it does come at a price. I do not know how much they would hold with the stock head gasket on a second gen. The recommended torque on the ARP 2000's is 122 ft lbs. ARP recommends 150 ft lbs with the New Age studs. The New Age studs feel much more solid when torqueing them.



If you are going to do a MLS gasket on a 2nd gen, block and head prep are a must. If you are going to go to that much trouble, just o-ring the head and use a stock gasket with studs.
 
Just out of curiosity what turbo was it? Do you know what your drive pressure was? I have been told that it is not as much of a psi thing that does your hg in, rather that drive pressure plays a big part. 50psi at 1. 8-2:1 is a little different than 1. 2-1. 4:1. I want to say that a silver bullet is close to 1. 2:1, maybe a little lower? For a SPS it is closer to 1. 4:1 I could be way off. I know that a stocker is near 2:1 above 23-25psi if IRC... but I am no turbo guru.
 
Next question... I went to their site and they only show these:



Domestic Auto



I guess that I want to get the 12v hg? What about the Phuzion hg? Thanks for all the help guys!



no you can't use 12v gasket ,the fuzion gasket sounds good they didn't make it when I was building mine I think the Mls was around $250 I'll see if I can find the part #went to look for the old box in the barn could't find it I'll try to find the invoice if you call their # they will know what you are talking abought don't know why their not on the web site anymore you might ask them abought the fuzion gasket and see what would work best.
 
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