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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Stupid Question 2

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) electric fan

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I have a '94 that had the bad fuel level sensor. When I would fill up the truck it would go to full for about 50 miles and then to empty.



I went to the dealer and got the new one. They ordered part number 04797738. I did the install. . I dropped the tank and pulled out the old and put in the new. When I fill the truck up the gauge only goes to 3/4. The truck stays at 3/4 until it gets below and then seems to read ok.



I went back and read the article in issue 49 on how to do it and they show 2 different part numbers. The show the one above and 05013467AA



I called the dealer and they cant tell me the difference between the 2 part numbers. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
 
The part number you installed is the same as the one for my '94 and a friend's '97. What you should have done is to check to see if the thing worked by moving the float by hand and observed the fuel gauge when you did that before you put it back in the tank. It is possible to put the float on the sending unit backwards. Or you can put the little cover that clamps the sending unit on the fuel module on backwards. Don't ask me how I know that. The float should move freely when you tilt the fuel tank module from the empty to the full stops. If the float is on correctly and sticks or rubs when it move the little cover is on backwards.



Edit. If you have an ohm meter you can test to see if the sending unit is correct. Test with the fuel module connector disconnected. F should read 3. 8 ohms. E should read 103. 3 ohms.
 
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Matt,



The sending unit costs about $70 from Dodge. I think you can get it for about $40 shopping around.



You can either tilt the bed or drop the tank. Unless you have something in the bed like an extra fuel tank or 5th wheel hitch I think it is a lot easier to tilt the bed. Make you you have it blocked up when you do that so it does not get you like a big mouse trap.
 
I paid $48. 00 for it from the dealer, but then I get a good deal on parts cause I know the guy .....



Dropping the tank was not bad ... . I ran the truck to what I thought was close to empty. I jacked up the rear of the truck and put it on stands disconnected the filler tube and vent line and all the connections on top of the tank. Then its 2 (I think 15MM nuts) to drop the straps. I used a floor jack and 2x6 to support the tank and then let it down... ... . Turns out I had about 20 gal of fuel still in the tanks :(



The entire job took like 3 hours and that was stopping for 2 cold refills :-laf
 
There are some advantages to lifting or tilting the bed. No crawling around on the floor for one. The whole thing is easier to work on even with a full tank. You an check out the sensor to see if it is working in place on the tank module connected to the truck wiring. A lot easier to look at the fuel gauge reaction to changes in float position. No possiblity of loosing control of the tank since it is never removed from its mounts.
 
The spare tire mounts to the frame. Some years there is a ground strap from the bed to the cab so check for that. If you take it completly off (not that bad a job if you have help or a lift) you will have to unplug all the wiring at the back that goes to the lights. I made a simple lift with ropes and pulleys in my garage because I was doing some electronic stuff to control a transfer pump. That was simple and cheap to do. I lift the bed off and roll the truck forward. I vented the humps in the tank to the filler neck vent. I can put four or five more gallons in the tank now. Less foaming when I fill it too. It still foams, but not nearly as bad.
 
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