Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) sucky brakes!!!

[Ahopper]

so i have been trying to fix my brake problem for the past few days first replaced calipers and pads. nothing different. next replaces front rubber brake lines bc they started bubbling/seperating. nothing different there. then replaced all fluid with synthetic brake fluid. i mean i compleatly compleatly flushed the system. the rear brakes are only 5k old. im sick of the soft peddle but not only that. i was pulling a small john deer yesterday maybe 8k lbs. going down the road and the light decided to go from green to red almost instantly bc of firetruck coming. put both feet to the floor and nothing it seemed like!!! they didnt lock up at all, had to run the red light luckly the fire truck already went through. really need some advice. could it be brake booster? peddle will come all the way up after u depress it.

 

[Coalsmoke]

I'm not a brake expert, but that fact that your peddle is soft makes me think that its not the booster. Instead, I think you might have a worn out master cylinder. When it wears internally, fluid will bypass the internal seals and the master will not build up enough line pressure to effectively fully engage your brakes. At least that's where I'd be looking.

 

[bmoeller]

I'd check that, and re-bleed the system to make sure there isn't any air in there.

Also, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up like they should be.

 

[Champane Flight]

Vacum pump?

Maybe not assisting? Is the pedal slow and hard to respond?

 

[K5IP]

My brakes get that way when ever the rear brakes need adjustment.

This is a manual (star wheel) 15 min job, but they need to be done on my rig every 50K or so. Lately, I've been adjusting them whenever I rotate tires.

Rog

 

[arthr31]

Hi K5IP,
Can you give either a good description or source of information on how to do this (adj rear breaks)? Thanks.

 

[SFrey]

my truck is still off the road, but i talked to glen @ egr brakes. he recommended that i put the chevy wheel cylinders on the back brakes and a chevy master cylinder up front. he stated that it would be a night & day difference. i will post what happens when i get my truck back on the road.



scot

 

[Ahopper]

i forgot to mention that i did do the chevy 3500 wheel cylinders when i did the rear brake job. the rears i belive are adjusted right. i took off the lower link to the rear porportioning valve and propped it up to see if i would get better rear braking power and i could lock them up by barrely braking. so i put it back to normal. how hard is to replace the master cylinder?

 

[bmoeller]

As long as you bench bleed the new master cyl, it isn't bad.

 

[bmoeller]

Hi K5IP,
Can you give either a good description or source of information on how to do this (adj rear breaks)? Thanks.

#ad


Under the rear of the truck, look at the backing plate that the brakes are attached to. There should be an open oval-shaped slot or a rubber plug if it is still in place like it should be. That is how you get to the adjuster screw.

IF your self adjuster mechanism works, you tighten up the clearance by backing up and hitting the brakes kind of hard. May need to do it several times.

If not-
------------
quote-

Rear Brake Adjustment

Subject: DiRT: Automatic Rear brake adjustment.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 12:02:21 -0600
From: -- email address removed -- (Doug Bloomberg)
To: DiRT

Read in the service manual the technique to adjust the rear brakes...

The Manual states. This when doing a reline of the rear. To go backwards and brake to a stop, then forwards and brake to a stop. Use the brakes only do not do a rolling stop. The Manual states a rolling stop will not actuate the automatic brake adjusters.

(DO NOT get going backwards, brake and put into 1st/drive and motor ahead. Stop completely via brakes alone. )

Any how with new brakes do the back up/forward stop thing 8 to 10 times.

I have done this, IT WORKS! ie. . I Had a slight shudder the past couple days when applying brakes. This AM did the back/forward thing 2 times. Shudder gone!!!

Now older RAM's (did this on other vehicles) I would suggest that if the adj does not seem to work, you remove the rear drums. Clean the whole brake assembly with brake cleaner, and take the star wheel assembly (you will know it when you pull the drum. A shaft type thing extends between the brake shoes, has threads and a star wheel on the piece with the OD threads. )

Anyway, remove the assembly and clean it, Move the threaded part till it is free turning. I put a little molly grease on the threads, but if you drive in mud and dusty areas I would probably not do that as the grease will hold the dirt.

But the trick is come to a complete stop using the brakes. And no you don't have to back up very fast to do it.

Just come to a complete stop... Then go forward...

Doug Bloomberg Denver RAM 1500 4x4 -quote

Ram brake job hints

 

[Coalsmoke]

The back and stop thing works well with my 95 too.



Whatever you do, don't try to make your rear brakes better by adjusting the balancer / tensioner mechanism on the e-brake cable where it goes from 1 to 2. I learned this the hard way. Oh well, nothing like frying a rear drum on a road trip, at least they are drums so they back off when they get real hot.

 

[SMorneau]

I'b be interested to know what Chevy master cylinder is suppose to work on our trucks? I have the same concerns and problems with my brakes.

 

[y-knot]

You made a few fatal mistakes right off the bat... ... should have posted first and then bought the parts.



You didn't replace the front rotors which is a big mistake, they make up 70% of the braking and should be up-graded to vented, slotted rotors like the Super Stoppers from Raybestes or the ones EGR brakes sells.

Second, you should have contacted EGR brakes, then purchased there brake pads and front calipers W/ rotor package, that would have taken care of the front. Then get there rear shoes and over-sized rear cylinders and you would have had a awesome package that you really could tell a difference with.



The synthetic fluid is a great addition. EGR also sells some awesome braided brake lines, 2 for the front and one for the rear, these are what gives you the awesome solid brake peddle, the rubber hoses only give.



I know you have already spent a good deal of money, but i would still contact EGR and get the Right stuff and sell the other junk on E-Bay. You will feel the difference.

 

[SMorneau]

I fail to see how slotted rotors, different friction materials, and some of the other things you suggest are going to cure a spongy pedal on a system that is not experiencing high heat and boiling fluid.



The braided lines are nice looking but some internet research indicates that decreased sponginess is probably not due to the lines but the new fluid that goes in when they go on. Reliability of the braided lines is, in the eyes of many, questionable.



I'm happy for everyone who credits EGR with their good brakes but to suggest the only thing that might be wrong with Ahoppers brakes is the wrong selection of vendor components is misleading at best.

 

[y-knot]

I suppose you just have to See it to believe it... . or more feel it to believe it.



Every vehicle I ever swapped out the stock rubber hoses for steel braided ones immediately gained a firmer peddle, everyone!



The EGR brakes are just that good... yes they are expensive, but the brake system is the MOST important system on the truck. If your going to spend the money for new brakes then I would and I would suggest that others should also dig a little deeper in there pockets and get a very good set of brakes that do work much better then the stockers when the truck was new.

Also, pulling to one side is very much a sign of a brake issues. One which is usually associated with worn sticking calipers or pads.



The slotted and drilled rotors are just another piece of the performance braking system. They are worth every penny they cost over stock and are just the ticket to anyone interested in up-grading there trucks braking system, weather it be on a normal truck, one lifted with larger tires,someone that tows or hauls heavy loads or all of the above. Until you experience a great braking system like the ones EGR offers there is just know way you could commit or make suggestions for or against them. The proof is in the pudding.

 

[arthr31]

#ad




Under the rear of the truck, look at the backing plate that the brakes are attached to. There should be an open oval-shaped slot or a rubber plug if it is still in place like it should be. That is how you get to the adjuster screw.



IF your self adjuster mechanism works, you tighten up the clearance by backing up and hitting the brakes kind of hard. May need to do it several times.

Cool bmoeller, thanks! I will try this tomorrow morning 'cause I have been getting a shudder the last couple of weeks.

 

[Ahopper]

i know ther are better upgrades then stock but i dont pull and i dont have huge tires i just want to stop. my rotors have 7k on them. my calipers were definetly shot so i relaced them. i got new pads and the brakelines were seperating so i relaced them too. i just want it to stop like it did when it was newer. stock is fine with me

 

[hsmith]

If it is 2wd, don't rule out the ABS dump valve. Can cause a real spongy pedal.

 

[SMorneau]

Until you experience a great braking system like the ones EGR offers there is just know way you could commit or make suggestions for or against them. The proof is in the pudding.

Silly me wasting my time researching other sites where opinons don't necessarily match yours.

 

[Ahopper]

all this time and i didnt relize the 4x4 wasnt in my sig. sorry. i take it then if its a 4x4 it dosnt have a abs dump valve? im in mexico right now ill be back later this week to go buy a new master cylinder. diesel is only $1. 90 a gallon!