Sudden p2262 code

[Jim W]

crispyboy,

You will find that you have a new truck and it will run smooth and you should not have any issues now. I would buy block off plates for the EGR at least; leaving the cooler on but blocking off the soot from the engine to the air intake.
I have been using a Smarty since 09 with this type of set-up and have been trouble free for almost 50K+ miles.

Good Luck

Jim W.

 

[crispyboy]

Jimw,
Any links to the block off plates? I was thinking about leaving the egr equipment in place for now. Did you unplug the egr or leave it plugged in and remove the internals to the actuator? Did you unplug the butterfly valve?

 

[Jim W]

Jimw,
Any links to the block off plates? I was thinking about leaving the egr equipment in place for now. Did you unplug the egr or leave it plugged in and remove the internals to the actuator? Did you unplug the butterfly valve?

crispyboy,

I sent you a PM on this.

Jim W.

 

[firemansdiesel]

I had a similar incident with my turbo crapping out on me with my old '09. I bought a reman turbo for 1k with $100 core charge. Changed the turbo out in my driveway by taking the manifold and turbo off together. Took about 8 hours between two people.

Like stated above with EFI and delete. You'll find out you will have a new truck that runs good.

 

[crispyboy]

Exhaust brake does not work!!

UPDATE - EXHAUST BRAKE NON-OPERATIONAL



What can I say but this situation has become a total and complete nightmare for me and because of some poor decisions I have made.

Here is the current situation:

Mechanic installed the turbo, temporarily put on an H&S tune and 4" exhaust with muffler. Drove the truck and I didn't like it because:

1. ) exhaust brake did not work

2. ) DPF full codes being thrown

3. ) truck was louder with drone, smoked when accelerated, stinky, puked all kinds of soot on my garage wall etc... .

4. ) if truck idled more than 30 seconds in park or neutral the idle would go up by 200 rpm



I told the mechanic to remove the after market equipment and that I wanted it to be a stock truck. I remembered how much I liked having a quiet, stink free truck.



I found a complete, low mileage exhaust from a 2012 truck for a good price and had it installed. (original dpf was clogged).



The truck still does not have an exhaust brake!



The truck is now with a dealership mechanic who does some work on the side. He told me last night that there was a "switch" so to speak in the trucks ECM where the exhaust brake could be turned off or on. He took the truck to his work and confirmed it was in the "on" position.

Should the ECM be totally reflashed by the dealership - Can this be done? The H&S tuner was supposed to put this back to stock.



The turbo seemed like was working ok otherwise - truck seemed to accelerate ok. There are no CEL's or codes.



Is there some type of controller or actuator that must be calibrated?



Can anyone help this idiot (me), maybe I am not understanding how the turbo is supposed to work.

 

[crispyboy]

UPDATE - As of 11/19/13 - After 2 1/2 months I finally have an operational truck again.
Never in my life have I ever been through such an ordeal with a vehicle. I'm ready to go back to a truck that has a set of points and condenser!
My education has been extremely expensive and quite embarrassing (down right foolish) but the moral of the story is make sure you have your vehicle at a competent mechanic.
To properly fix the truck it has taken a second turbo because the first rebuilt one was no good. I am trying to get some money back on the first one and I doubt I will have any luck.#@$%!
Mechanic #2 had the correct tools (computer software) to diagnose that the original actuator was not working properly. They took a good actuator and put it on the existing turbo and it would not work properly. I got to purchase a second turbo - Christmas will be a bit on the lean side this year.......
I had the dealer reflash the ECU to stock along with the latest/greatest of flashes.
The truck seems to have more power and shift better than it has in a long, long time! I can actually hear the turbo spooling up at times.Oo.
Mechanic #2 is a franchise operation that specializes in turbo/injector problems. From what I gather they are certified by Holset to rebuild the turbo's and have the proper tools to diagnose and install the turbo.
http://www.dieselusa.com/discinci.html
The shop also recommended the use of Stanadyne in the truck which should help cut down on the soot.

So with all of the recent soot issues do you think it would be a good idea to go ahead and clean the egr cooler and related emission components? The vehicle has 46k miles.

 

[BILLUA]

Crispyboy, we all live and learn. There is also nothing worse than unknowingly installing a bad part and having other problems. You're not an idiot!

Imho, now that your truck is squared away, I would go back to the H&S, and tunes along with your 4 inch full exhaust if you still have it. I would pull the EGR and put the block off plates on it.

I have pre preemptively done the above on my truck and my 3rd oil change still looks gold on the dipstick after 1500 miles...

 

[Bob4x4]

If it were my truck I would clean the valve,I would not worry about cleaning the cooler yet. There are road side smog ckd in California. Wasn't sure if it was rumours or truth till I got funneled past one. There was a portable dyno,sniffer,and a chp canine unit. The fine vs a 1-2 mpg fuel saving makes the decision easier in my mind

 

[crispyboy]

Thanks for the comments and recommendation on cleaning the valve.
I will do that job pronto!

BILLUA - I realize all the benefits of deleting with cleaner oil, no regens and being nice to the turbo but it just wasn't working out. It also bugged me that those who deleted seemed to have a better chance at getting trouble with head gaskets, driveline issues and exhaust drone.
For the time being I've spent more than enough money and time getting it going again and at the end of the day I like this truck because it is quiet and mostly stink free (stinks during regen). We used the truck over Thanksgiving to visit family 100 miles down the road and we had normal conversation (no exhaust drone) and the mileage was 17 mpg mixed driving - good enough on winter fuel.
In about two years I will seriously think about finding a 2014 model with the updated emission system or hemi gas truck.

 

[Heavy Driver]

Turbo Removal

I changed the turbo on my '08, myself, in my garage. not a real hard job, but I had an issue with getting the controller set up just right. while the truck ran, it made only a little boost.
I took it to the dealer and had the tech "center" the controller with the old Star Scan.
I've put well over 100,000 miles on it since then.
Plus, I took my old turbo apart, cleaned it, reassembled it, and still have it. ( I'm guessing it works OK now)


good luck

RDHamill,

I may need to do this as well - to clean it, and possibly replace it if it's bad.

I have a 2008 3500. I have been having surging problems where the truck loses power like it's getting choked (with P226B - Boost Pressure High- Mechanical). After looking at the VGT position while driving (using AutoEnginuity) I found that it sometimes goes to the full open position when it's commanded to be closed. I expected the AutoEnginuity software to show the VGT position go to the closed position, since the code P226B is for High Boost but I have not seen that since I started recording it. However, I have not experienced a surge event when I was recording, so I am not entirely sure what's going on. Either way, my guess is that the turbine is dirty.

The service manual procedure for removing the turbo (I pasted an excerpt below) requires draining the coolant, removing the right hand engine mount after lifting the engine ("slightly"), and a special wrench for the turbo, among other things.

I imagined removing it was possible without lifting the engine.

Anyway, what did you actually have to do to access it?


Thanks in advance.


The steps for the turbo removal and engine mount removal are below just for reference.


Turbocharger Removal - 6.7L DIESEL

Disconnect the battery negative cables.
Drain coolant.
Remove air filter housing.
Remove charge air cooler inlet tube at turbocharger inlet.
Disconnect turbocharger speed sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect turbocharger actuator electrical connector.
Remove turbocharger oil supply line.
Remove turbocharger coolant lines at engine block.
Remove RH engine mount.
Remove exhaust steady rest bracket from transmission.
Remove V-clamp from turbocharger exhaust outlet.
Remove turbocharger drain tube mounting bolts at turbocharger. Remove tube from cylinder block.
Lower vehicle.
Using Tool 9866, remove turbocharger mounting nuts.
Remove turbocharger from vehicle.



Engine Mount Removal - Front

Disconnect the battery negative cables.
Remove the viscous fan/drive assembly.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Install engine support fixture tool# 8534 and steel bracket tool # 8534A
Loosen the thru-bolt and nut.
Lift the engine SLIGHTLY and remove the insulator to block bolts.
Remove the RH mount (2) from the engine.
Remove the LH insulator (2) from the vehicle.