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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) suggestions anyone?

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Here's the deal. Last year after the warranty timed out I put in a # 6 plate . The engine rev's up VERY SLOWLY unless I have the star wheel run up all the way to the very front of the hole. Then it runs great, quick response, lots of smoke. Since I have been here in Florida for a month I have expended my supply of $1. 26 diesel fuel I brought with me. and now will have to buy $1. 69 fuel for the 1200 mile trip home; today I spun the wheel back maybe 1/4 of the way back from the front of the hole ( no where near center yet) to cut down on the smoke and maybe fuel consumption for the trip home. I pulled out of the drive to go to the hardware store and could not get enough acceleration to pull back into the drive until I raised the hood and screwed the star wheel all the way forward again. why do I have to do this? Any suggestions? would it help If I moved the plate to the rear of the slots instead of forward? I am determined I am going to set right her in Clermont till I get this figured out. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Go to the Piers site & look for the "secret" lever adjustment. Mine acted a little like that after I put in my spring kit, the tip of the lever was hanging up under the nose of the plate.
 
Thats what it is I bet. When my 4K GSK went in it was so gutless I could have pushed it faster and after the lever adjustment it went on the dyno for 389HP.
 
Thanks for asking. I haven't driven it yet. My daughter was attacked by some sort of virus going around the area here and the wife and I ended up getting her some medical help. Got home around midnight with a tired body and a daughter that was feeling better. I'm fortunate to have the day off today, so will be going out in awhile to see what it's doing. I'm fairly certain based on what Joseph said, that I have the lever where it needs to be. Now the question will be finding the sweet spot for the plate and AFC housing. Knowing it's rated for less H. P. than the #5, after talking with Piers, it should be more fun to drive and still have plenty to tow a 10K load over a hill or two. I post the outcome later.
 
You might also ck. to see if the pre-boost fueling screw on the rear of the afc housing is loose backed off etc. I saw one do this once when installing a TST kit and afc springs. The afc spring kit instructions mention this with illustrations etc.



Common adjustment is to adjust until it just touches the afc link. I've found with auto. trans trucks with lower stall converters that it likes an add'l 1/2 to 1 turn in to provide sufficent low boost "startability. "



I think you'll lick this problem in short order.



Good luck
 
Thanks for the ideas. Right after I posted I received a call from a repeat customer wanting a sunroom "right now" so I loaded up all my tools and headed back to missouri ( after I took out the plug and screwed the wheel almost out of sight forward) Yesterday it was cold with -25 wind chill and snow. Currently it is 3 degrees with -8 windchill and supposed to drop to - 6 air temp so I haven't touched it being we don't have a garage.

As soon as the temp goes up I intend to tear into it with gusto though. Keep the ideas coming so I can check them all. :)
 
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