Suggestions for a mild tuner 2005 with 48RE

[Ozymandias]

Good to know, my information was different then.

 

[bigceltic]

Good to know, my information was different then.

I thought the same and always ran it on SW2 when towing and 1 or 3 otherwise. Good to know!

 

[Regcabguy]

You just have to be sure it's not locked to somebody else's VIN. Try before you buy.

Yeah if it's local. There's a few being sold out there. Will ship. Actually a brand new Jr. isn't that bad. For a couple more hundred bucks you'd have piece of mind.

 

[Blakers]

You just have to be sure it's not locked to somebody else's VIN. Try before you buy.

So buy locally and plug it into my truck? Can I tell right away?

 

[Blakers]

Yeah if it's local. There's a few being sold out there. Will ship. Actually a brand new Jr. isn't that bad. For a couple more hundred bucks you'd have piece of mind.

I'd probably go new, unless it was someone I knew. I just saw one online new for $475 on sale.

 

[slowmover]

Smarty won’t improve steady-state highway.

The rest has always been about the intelligence of the operator.

Correct tire choice (in stock size), no lift, perfect alignment, zero steering play (column bushings and outwards), zero brake drag (confirmed; use temp gun), and no CAC system leaks (new hoses & fasteners).

Spend on these and maybe higher-quality shock absorbers.

.

 

[Topzide]

Can't tell you how many times when traveling, find your spot where your truck makes it's best mileage and let all the others go on by! You'll catch them after they've made fuel stops or get invitation to Patrolman's Ball! The Centramatics that I installed, help with driver fatigue, calming the vibrations.

 

[AH64ID]

Smarty won’t improve steady-state highway.

That's a 100% false and uneducated assumption.

All 3 levels on the SJR have modified timing tables, unless stock timing is selected, that improve steady state efficiency at cruise.

The HPCR timing in the cruise region, especially 04.5-07, is retarded to reduce peak cylinder pressure as a way to combat NOx. By advancing the timing we get a more efficient burn and use less fuel to make the same power.

Even then the timing tables on the SJR are relatively mild and the gains on SW1 are timing only, stock fuel tables and stock fuel limits. That's a 40 rwhp peak gain just by improving the timing.

 

[Blakers]

Smarty won’t improve steady-state highway.

The rest has always been about the intelligence of the operator.

Correct tire choice (in stock size), no lift, perfect alignment, zero steering play (column bushings and outwards), zero brake drag (confirmed; use temp gun), and no CAC system leaks (new hoses & fasteners).

Spend on these and maybe higher-quality shock absorbers.

.

Thanks for the elementary driving lesson. I appreciate it. No offense, but I’ve been driving for 46 years. All those can help in some ways. The sweetest spot with the 5.9 trucks I’ve owned has usually been around 55-65 mph. Somewhat bigger tire size (35”) has increased mileage some by keeping the rpms closer to the torque peak at higher speeds.
All the drag-associated items certainly help reduce resistance. Not sure about the shocks?
Around here summer fuel has more btu than winter fuel. That alone can be 1 mpg difference. I wish we could get the old #2 fuel that was more oily, didn’t evaporate, provided better lubrication, and had more btu. I’d like to find some #4 and blend it.
I’m not sure about your Smarty remarks. Others differ. That’s why I’m here to learn.

 

[slowmover]

That's a 100% false and uneducated assumption.

All 3 levels on the SJR have modified timing tables, unless stock timing is selected, that improve steady state efficiency

The HPCR timing in the cruise region, especially 04.5-07, is retarded to reduce peak cylinder pressure as a way to combat NOx. By advancing the timing we get a more efficient burn and use less fuel to make the same power.

Even then the timing tables on the SJR are relatively mild and the gains on SW1 are timing only, stock fuel tables and stock fuel limits. That's a 40 rwhp peak gain just by improving the timing.

That’s directly from a phone call to tech at MADS.

Proof is in the pudding. I don’t see anyone beating the numbers I average or others with same by having added a Smarty. ‘03-‘04 would have pulled up near to 30-MPG at 60 had it been so.

.

 

[AH64ID]

That’s directly from a phone call to tech at MADS.

Proof is in the pudding. I don’t see anyone beating the numbers I average or others with same by having added a Smarty. ‘03-‘04 would have pulled up near to 30-MPG at 60 had it been so.

.

I can tell you that I’ve likely spent a lot more time corresponding with MADS and Marco over their programmers, and specifically the SJR.

There are timing improvements in the cruise region, and that equates to increased efficiency.

People don’t beat your numbers because we don’t drive like you do, I have a life to live that doesn’t involve your style driving. Comparing your mpg to anyone else’s is a waste of time. Look at average real life comparisons, not one off numbers. You also have an 04, and as mentioned above their cruise gains aren’t as high as 04.5-07.

The region of the fuel/timing map you are using to cruise at the mpg’s you get the gains will be smaller, but the fuel/timing map the average driver uses the gains will be more noticeable.

 

[slowmover]

Thanks for the elementary driving lesson. I appreciate it. No offense, but I’ve been driving for 46 years. All those can help in some ways. The sweetest spot with the 5.9 trucks I’ve owned has usually been around 55-65 mph. Somewhat bigger tire size (35”) has increased mileage some by keeping the rpms closer to the torque peak at higher speeds.
All the drag-associated items certainly help reduce resistance. Not sure about the shocks?
Around here summer fuel has more btu than winter fuel. That alone can be 1 mpg difference. I wish we could get the old #2 fuel that was more oily, didn’t evaporate, provided better lubrication, and had more btu. I’d like to find some #4 and blend it.
I’m not sure about your Smarty remarks. Others differ. That’s why I’m here to learn.

Taller tires reduce overall MPG.
Fuel additives can promote better combustion.

As to driving lessons: unless you’re keeping record of every gallon and every mile to track the annual average so-called experience won’t help in altering the driving habits necessary to success.

https://www.fuelly.com/

Is one way to do it. Keep a journal otherwise.

It’s easy to reduce the average annual mpg. It’s difficult to get it higher and then to keep it there.

Only the average matters. All gallons, all miles.

“Intelligence” is planned use. The how-to of operation over the course of the year. The willingness to make changes. And the discipline to follow-thru.

I thought I was fine with my in-town miles. Till the discrepancy between those and highway-only it was pointed out to me by a Cummins engineer differed only in engine time spent at steady-state rpm.

The difference in MPG was almost one-third. I took the challenge and got it down to 11%. That’s how MPG is improved. I didn’t use any extra-legal techniques like the serious competitors as safety, longevity, reliability and mpg track the same almost 90% of the way. (I default to safety).

Magic devices won’t substitute for sloppy driving as THAT is the meat on the bone.

Only thing left is highway steady-state. On cruise control.
MADS said, nope, sorry.

.

 

[slowmover]

I can tell you that I’ve likely spent a lot more time corresponding with MADS and Marco over their programmers, and specifically the SJR.

There are timing improvements in the cruise region, and that equates to increased efficiency.

Then where are those truck owners hitting 30-MPG at 60-MPH? Best spec for FE, and best climate & topography? They’d be all over Texas and The Southland. Even if most never hit that number as their skill set lacks past being rigorous about mechanical condition.

I can run at 27-MPG, solo, with no adverse conditions down here. Same as others with same spec, etc. Stock truck.

No diminution from OEM in ability to work. No race car tuning for solo-only. Can still run as hard as any OEM.

If I’d bought from MADS, I ought to be higher to make it worthwhile. Pay for it, for starters. Just like those other non-existent 30-MPG pickups. It’s no reflection on MADS. Steady-state takes X-power. No way around that.

‘03-‘04 set a mark that Dodge hasn’t budged in 20-years. (Except via second OD). Deleted new trucks ain’t beating it.

It’s with the operator to take what he has in spec and get out of the way of what his truck can do. Same as with my Dad and his Hupmobile during wartime fuel rationing.

Class 8 is miles ahead of where it was in 2003.

But not with what Joe Sixpack drives. It’s up to him to minimize fuel burn to accomplish the same ends: Fewer engine starts/miles in the exact same errands driven at a higher skill level in a pickup with no variances from ideal.

Only after that is a tuning device realistic.

.

 

[AH64ID]

lol, always the same soapbox speech that most people just ignore. We get it, we run the wrong tires, own the wrong vehicle, take the wrong route to run errands, lack skill, stop/start out trucks too much, drive to fast, spend too much money on fuel, aren’t successful… etc.

Yes, it takes a certain amount of horsepower to move a vehicle down the road at a given speed and conditions. No-one is arguing that, but what is variable is the efficiency of the fuel being burned. Increased efficiency decreases fuel burn for the same power output at all speeds and loads, not just 30 mpg at 60. Surely with all your “intelligent” mpg experience you should understand that

Despite your attempt at a “lesson” the facts remain the same, the SJR will improve steady state fuel economy under the same conditions. It may not ever be enough to pay for itself, but that’s hardly the main reason to buy one. A little more power, a little better economy, and a little better drive ability. It’s a package deal that’s worth the cost, as long as you don’t obsess over CPM and just enjoy the ride.

 

[Ozymandias]

He should buy a tuner to make 40mpg..

 

[Blakers]

Does anyone have a good Smarty Jr they wish to sell? Is it ever safe to buy a used one? Can they be corrupted and cause damage?

 

[Ozymandias]

Not corrupt but VIN locked.
Better make sure that the seller returned his vehicle to stock and therefor unlocked the Smarty.

 

[Blakers]

Not corrupt but VIN locked.
Better make sure that the seller returned his vehicle to stock and therefor unlocked the Smarty.

Can one tell without trying to install on mine?

 

[AH64ID]

Can one tell without trying to install on mine?

Yes, when the device powers up there will be two pound signs on the top line when it's VIN locked. i.e. # SMARTY JR #

 

[TVolken]

Hello, I do have a smarty jr. that I removed from my 2004.5 3500 when I installed a
Banks exhaust brake and Banks Economind tuner with Idash monitor.
The smarty jr. is unlocked and ready to go.
It works great , I used in the towing setting when hauling a cab over camper.
It has all paperwork and connector as when bought new.
I'm asking 300.00 and I can ship 2 day priority mail for 20.00