Suggestions on the Removal of a Stripped-Out Transfer Case Fill Plug

[DonCurley]

I realize that this is not a question that specifically pertains to a diesel equipped Dodge, but I thought it was related enough to ask it anyway.



Basically, I need to get some suggestions on how to remove a stripped-out NV242 transfer case fill plug.



The quick lube place that has been servicing my 1999 Dodge Dakota pickup for quite some time recently stripped-out the fill plug in my NV242 transfer case. What I mean by stripped-out is not the threads of the plug or the case, but the hex socket itself in the fill plug. The inside corners of the 10mm hex socket have been completely rounded-off so a 10mm hex wrench or 10mm male hex socket just spins around inside the hex socket area of the fill plug. I tried to use my largest extractor which is a #6 (13/32") unit, however, because of the initial smaller diameter taper, the extractor prematurely bottoms-out in the fill plug's shallow hex socket area before the larger diameter portion of the extractor can engage the sides of the rounded-out hex socket walls, so it can't get any bite. I don't have any larger metric or SAE hex wrenches (or larger extractors for that matter), so I am pretty much stuck at this point. I thought of hammering in a chisel into the hex socket, but decided against that as I might end up damaging the threads cut into the softer aluminum case of the transfer case.



Based on all of this, does anyone have any words of wisdom or suggestions as to how I can safely remove the fill plug?

 

[EDankievitch]

I've had to remove Pipe plugs in Cyl heads on the EMD diesels on the boats I work on. Hate to say it you are going to have to drill the drain plug deeper so your extractor will work. Also some heat will help free things up... . I'd have a new plug ready before I drilled along with fresh fluid... ... .

 

[DonCurley]

I've had to remove Pipe plugs in Cyl heads on the EMD diesels on the boats I work on. Hate to say it you are going to have to drill the drain plug deeper so your extractor will work. Also some heat will help free things up... . I'd have a new plug ready before I drilled along with fresh fluid... ... .

Thanks for the input. Based on another response I received elsewhere, I am first going to try sacrificing my extractor by cutting down the tapered portion until I can get a bite in the hex socket head portion of the fill plug. But as you additionally suggested, I will also heat the case area up around the fill plug with my MAPP gas torch when I go to extract the plug. Hopefully this approach will work.

 

[EDankievitch]

The Extractor is heat treated and hardened if you cut it or grind it you will weaken it...

 

[DonCurley]

The Extractor is heat treated and hardened if you cut it or grind it you will weaken it...

Yep ... you're right. I tried to cut it with a hacksaw and it wouldn't even put a scratch in it. I then used a triangular file, and got a scratch started, but two different hacksaws (one with a new blade), wouldn't even put a dent in it. I then switched to my small cut-off saw with a diamond blade. It basically did the blade in but I got through it. After grabbing some dinner, I will give it a try in the fill plug (and I'll hope that I didn't weaken it too much). I'll report back.

 

[Ducman82]

i used a bigger hex on my dodge, pounded it in, then just turned it out. had to get a new one ofcourse'

 

[Allnew2Me]

Why ruin a good extractor then you are going to have to replace the plug anyway? Just drill the plug after you get a new one.

 

[DonCurley]

Still no success ...

After heating the case around the fill plug with my MAPP gas torch, I then got the cut-down extractor to bite into the fill plug. I first tried a 12mm open end wrench, but it wasn't long enough, so I couldn't exert enough torque to break the plug free. I then moved up to a 1/2" crows-foot socket with a 3/8" socket wrench, and finally two longer Crescent wrenches, but none of them were able to break the plug free. It's getting pretty cold here now, so I am going to wait until tomorrow to try again with larger (longer) wrenches after I remove the transfer case skid plate which is hampering my getting a more direct purchase on the extractor in the plug.



I may be dreaming, but it almost looks like someone used some form of thread locker on the plug, as it looks and acts like it is literally glued in place. Hopefully I can get it broken free tomorrow.

 

[InfernoB]

Iv'e had a similar problem with a 1/2 NPT aluminum plug in a Ford transfer case that had some of the plug sticking out was tap it with a hammer a few times and drive a 6 point socket on it. Came right out. Good luck.

 

[dan.poitras]

drive (hammer) in a torx bit and use it as an easy out. Done this many times with success.

 

[DonCurley]

Iv'e had a similar problem with a 1/2 NPT aluminum plug in a Ford transfer case that had some of the plug sticking out was tap it with a hammer a few times and drive a 6 point socket on it. Came right out. Good luck.

It sounds like you may be talking about a plug that has a square head (or some kind of head) sticking out. In my case, it is a hex socket head plug, where the hex is an internal cavity going into the plug itself. Almost nothing sticks out of my plug as it is close to being flush with the back surface of the transfer case, so there really isn't anything sticking out in order to hammer a socket on it. In any regard, the cut down extractor is really biting into the damaged hex socket cavity now, so once I get the skid plate off tomorrow, I am going to try again with a larger wrench.

 

[DonCurley]

drive (hammer) in a torx bit and use it as an easy out. Done this many times with success.

Well, now that my cut down extractor is really biting in, it is serving as an easy out. Hopefully it will come out tomorrow.

 

[InfernoB]

It sounds like you may be talking about a plug that has a square head (or some kind of head) sticking out. In my case, it is a hex socket head plug, where the hex is an internal cavity going into the plug itself. Almost nothing sticks out of my plug as it is close to being flush with the back surface of the transfer case, so there really isn't anything sticking out in order to hammer a socket on it. In any regard, the cut down extractor is really biting into the damaged hex socket cavity now, so once I get the skid plate off tomorrow, I am going to try again with a larger wrench.

It was a round plug with a square in the middle. It had enough materail sticking out though. Looks like you may be greasing a drill bit and use the "easy" out.

 

[jakprince]

If that extractor snaps off in there then your screwed. You couldnt even drill that sucker out then.

 

[BlitzkriegSSII]

What u need to do is weld a nut to the fill plug and use a wrench to turn the plug out. Take the nut and place it in the center of the fill plug and weld the nut in the center. My father and I have use this trick many times and had very good luck with it. Just make sure that every thing is clean when you go to weld it. Hope this can help you out!

 

[DonCurley]

Success !

OK, I finally got the damn fill plug out of my transfer case. After I got the transfer case skid plate off, I found that a 14mm 12-point socket fit the square end of the #6 extractor quite well and put a breaker bar on it. However, now that I could get some better leverage and torque on the extractor, I ended up just twisting the business end of the extractor in the fill plug, so that was that. I then investigated drilling the fill plug, however, due to a welded-in crossmember just behind the rear of the transfer case (anchoring the rear of the two front torsion bars), there was no way to reach from the rear into the fill plug area and even if I could have, it would have been at an awkward angle.



So, I tried grinding some more material off of the tapered front of the extractor, but my Baldor twin-wheel grinder wouldn't even begin to tackle the hardened steel. I then went back to my small cut-off saw, put on a new diamond blade and cut another section off the extractor to get to a larger diameter section of the tool. I then banged the extractor end into the buggered cavity in the fill plug and then heated the hell out of the aluminum areas adjacent to the plug with my MAPP gas torch. I put the socket and breaker bar on the extractor again, but when I started to turn the extractor, it started going off-angle and acting like it was just going to spin inside the fill plug cavity again. Just when I was running out of travel on the breaker bar handle, I heard a loud snap and the plug had obviously broken free! After I completed a bit more with the breaker bar, I switched over to my standard 1/2" ratchet wrench and finished getting the extractor and plug out. Here is a shot of my success:

#ad




From the fact that the fill plug was totally flush with the back of the case, and yet the drain plug stood off over 1/8", it is very possible that these same quick lube grease monkeys previously overtightened the fill plug, perhaps using an air impact wrench. Anyway, it's out and I'll get a new plug tomorrow.



Thanks again for the help and suggestions,



Don

 

[CPittman]

Nice picture... I tell ya, once these kids in the quick changes places get a taste of an air impact they want to use it on everything. Even though it says right in the transfer case housing, 'do not use impact driver'.



So, next time - 3 quarts of ATF+4 and an hour of your time in the garage - yes? You can do the diffs while you're at it (however, that's a four-beer project... due to time only, not difficulty).

 

[DonCurley]

Nice picture... I tell ya, once these kids in the quick changes places get a taste of an air impact they want to use it on everything. Even though it says right in the transfer case housing, 'do not use impact driver'.



So, next time - 3 quarts of ATF+4 and an hour of your time in the garage - yes? You can do the diffs while you're at it (however, that's a four-beer project... due to time only, not difficulty).

For my three vehicles, I do all of the work on my 2000 Jeep TJ, my 2007 Ram 3500 goes to the dealer for service (still under warranty), but I have been taking my 1999 Dodge Dakota to this quick lube place for oil changes & lube jobs (which is the only one in the small town nearest my remote location) for the last 90,000 miles (it has 146,000 miles on it). I may take on the duties for my Dakota as well, but at the very least, the quick lube guys are going to get a piece of my mind about all of this.

 

[Ducman82]

mine came that tight from the factory! i tried to take it out one day, could not do it so i orderd a new plug, and the next day started tto work on it. . to me about 20 min. i think they must stick the plug in RIGHT AFTER the case is cast!

 

[DonCurley]

i think they must stick the plug in RIGHT AFTER the case is cast!

Well, if you wanted a permanent plug in there, that would be the way to do it.