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Super Plug recalled?

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AFE Drop-In filter is coming off my truck!

City Diesel & Cool-Collar

Randy, your a nice guy using your truck for R&D for this company. I think if I had one of these plugs in my oil pan, it would be gone by the end of the day. The OEM plug would be back where it belongs. What do these engines cost to replace? :( Some risks are not worth taking ;)
 
I just got off the phone with a guy at SuperPlug named Ziggy, he was a little embarrassed, they had never had this problem before with any other diesel orgas application. He asked me to take the SuperPlug out and put the stock one back in for now. He said they suspect the problem is the thread size or pitch of the Sp-264 plug. For some reason it loosens up in the Dodge/Cummins. They now know that there IS a problem and are re-engineering the specs for the D/C plug. SuperPlug is going to change the threads so the new plug won't back out. He said all who want to can change their old plug for the new one when it is done, but again he asked that we remove the old SuperPlug for now.
 
Pit Bull, I have not yet installed the plug..... was waiting to see what the final call is.



I did get a return call from Ziggy today at work. He is thinking there may be a problem with thread compatibility. I suggested that maybe the flange head of the plug needs to be at least as big as the stock plug. We also talked about manufacturing a plug identical to the stock plug and attaching a superplug magnet to it. In any case he asked me not to install the plug and send it back to Geno's. They are going to do some R&D and figure out what the problem is and then contact me and everyone else who called. He seemed like a genuinely concerned, legit guy; maybe a bit embarrassed about the problem.



It is about time for another 11 quarts of John Deere 15W40 Plus 50 and another Fleetgard LF 3894. Guess the Superplug will have to wait. Just not worth taking the chance.



Randy
 
Stock Washer?

I just did my 20K oil change. Since I was unable to get the Super Plug for Christmas, I re-used the stock plug till next time. I have heard that the stock washer is a metal with rubber center like the banjo washers. My stock washer is a thick plastic washer. No metal or rubber. Since I have done every oil change it is original. Could the problem be with the washer? Which type is the best? I have always liked and had good sealing with a copper washer. Most of my imported car use copper washers. Only my old Blazer uses a plastic washer. :rolleyes:



Any thoughts?



Cary :cool:
 
Originally posted by rrausch

He said they suspect the problem is the thread size or pitch of the Sp-264 plug.



I just came across the box that my Superplug came in and it is an SP-265. It appears that the Superplug Geno's was selling was also an SP-265?
 
clarification please

All,

Can we get a clarification on the EXACT plug we're talking about here that was recalled/pulled from shelves/whatever? I believe there are two types that are being confused here but I'll list all of the Geno's types in my copy of the catalog:

1. Super Plug with magnetic tip.

2. A "Plug-it-Right" HD plug with magnetic tip (note-this is what I have and I didn't even know it was magnetic! I'll have to check it closer next oil change) This has the 9/16 head that some people on this thread may have had problems with or are getting confused with the "superplug".

3. B+M Drain plug

4. Finger touch Engine oil drain valve

5. EZ change drain Plug



Now I assume we're referring to number 1. With the stock of SP-265 for SP-220 depending on the year of the truck.



My question, "Is this assumption right?"





Brian
 
Originally posted by illflem

If you want to replace your plug for another, forget the washer or have it on backwards you can hook a vacuum cleaner up to the oil fill spout and plug the blowby with a screw driver. The plug can then be removed with no loss of oil or any in the vacuum. If your wife catches you with her vacuum hooked up to your truck tell her I said it was ok but only if you don't get oil all over it.

If you get oil on it tell her it was your idea. ;)
[/QUOTE



Good Trick !!!:cool:
 
I have two Super Plugs. I misplaced one and thought it got thrown out, only to find it after I ordered the second plug. I've had it on for 6 months and it is as tight as the day I put it on. I have the stock plug and the EZ drain plug as spares.



My plug has the 1-1/8 inch head
 
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My Superplug has been serving me well now for about 8 oil changes so far. Every time that I go to loosen it for an oil change it is as tight as when I tourqued it for the oil change before to 40ft/lbs. Maybe it is a washer issue and not the plug.



For info purposes my plug gasket is the plastic one that came from Geno's with the plug when I bought it.



Anyone else have a different washer?
 
Originally posted by jerryrigg

Anyone know if people using the fingertouch plug has had any problems. Something I noticed it the factory plugs and superplugs have a machined area just below the gasket instead of threads all the way to the gasket like the fingertouch plug. I thinking we may be running out of threads and the plug is only hanging on by a couple threads...



any thoughts?

-Matt



I have used the "fingertouch" plug for a long time with PERFECT results in my Nissan Maxima. It's actually made by Fumoto Engineering, and it is a quality product. There's no comparison for convenience.



It usually runs about $25, and here's what I like:

- Never have to take a plug off or fish it out of oil

- it doesn't leak-- EVER

- The valve LOCKS IN PLACE, so it would take a VERY special kinds of bump to accidentally open it.



One POSSIBLE gripe is that the drain goes up high enough into the pan where it MIGHT not be flush with the inside floor of the pan. Thus, any particle and stuff that accumulated in the bottom would not drain out. I disproved this to my satisfaction, though, by taking the valve out and feeling the inside of the pan through the hole-- nothing.



The other possible gripe is a slight reduction in ground clearance at the oil drain. If you drive where you might dent your oil pan, you also might shear the valve off and then you would REALLY be hurting. For me, this is not an issue, since the ground clearance is plenty, and I feel this is a remote risk and not likely.



The valve is machined from a solid chunk of brass, and has a stainless steel ball valve in it, with nylon bushings for sealing.



I highly recommend it; I feel it is a very high quality product. They've been selling them for over 25 years, and millions of plugs later, no recalls. You might want the version without the nipple, as it's lower profile (it sticks out about 3/4 inch)





JMO



HOHN
 
super plug

I have had mine installed for over 20k with zero problems, I do oil changes every 3k, I kept the original box and the p/n is SP-264 M22- 1. 50. Good thing, The manufacture has stepped up to the plate and is addressing the issue.



Dave :)
 
I sent Super Plug an email to follow up and get their statement as to what is the situation with this plug. I hope that they have solved the leak and torque retension issues. I'll post their reply if and when I get it.
 
I've followed this with interest, IMO some people are calling the other magnetic plug Geno's sells a Super plug.



I've had one in my 24V for 85k miles, long before Genos sold/pulled them. Never loose at oil change time. Have one in my 12V, again it's never come loose. Both of these are the so-called "bad" ones.



They always come out with superfine metal bits that are small enough to stay in the oil through the filter, sure glad I have the SuperPlugs on my trucks.



I dont think there ever was a problem with them. Some definately had problems though, most likely to upside down sealing washers or faulty washers. The fiber washer (not used) sounds like a problem.



Had SuperPlugs on two other (gasser) Dodges, never a problem.



Never torqued them, just use one standard wrist torque.
 
Boy, it has been awhile since I pulled my SuperPlug out. I did check it after first reading on the TDR about 18 months ago that they were loosening. And sure enough, mine had loosened. I spoke with Ziggy and he never got back to me. I think they just engineered the threads a little off--evidently they wanted a tighter fit than the OEM plug, and as it turned out that tighter fit actually loosened with all the vibration from the Cummins. At any rate, that is what I recall from speaking with Ziggy. He sounded like a good guy, and I kept my Superplug for many months, hoping he would fix the problem. I finally just sent it back to Geno's and traded it for the other magnetic plug they carry. I'm still carrying that new plug around in my door--haven't remembered to install it yet!
 
jerryrigg said:
Anyone know if people using the fingertouch plug has had any problems. Something I noticed it the factory plugs and superplugs have a machined area just below the gasket instead of threads all the way to the gasket like the fingertouch plug. I thinking we may be running out of threads and the plug is only hanging on by a couple threads...



any thoughts?

-Matt



Matt, I have used the finger touch oil valve on my gasser car (which sits much lower) for over 3 years. It's great! No leaks. No looseness. Very convenient. I have the one WITHOUT the nipple so I get more ground clearance. The only problem I had with it is somehow the valve tab got bent. Bent it back- no problems.



By the way-- the finger touch valve is made by Fumoto Engineering (http://www.fumotovalve.com/)



On my CTD, I use the OEM plug. I may convert to the Fumoto valve, but so far, the OEM is working nicely.



My only gripe with the Fumoto valve is that the orifice is kinda small, so draining the oil takes a little longer. Not much of an issue with only 4. 5qts, but with 12 it is.

Justin
 
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