Suspension concerns when adding a winch & bumper set-up

[AH64ID]

Pick a vendor, but for manufacturer Dynatrac or Carli balljoints and Yukon or Dynatrac hubs, Spyntec is good too.

 

[seafish]

I bought my DynaTrac Free spin kit, Carli bj's, and all Spicer replacement ujoints from George at 8LugTruck Gear.

I can heartily recommend him as a vendor on par with my all time favorite, Genos Garge, for the following reasons--

BEFORE I bought anything, while I was still deciding what parts to get, he readily took the time to answer any and all of my questions. Since he sells BOTH the Carli and Dynatrac ball joints, as well as the Yukon and Dynatrac free spin kit, he has alot of knowledge on choices. He also knows how to guide you in getting the correct Spicer ujoints for your particular truck, agreed to price match the freespin kit from another seller that had a great sale going on at the time, and then gave me free shipping, as well as low prices, on all of the Spicer parts and ball jpoints. AFTER I bought eveything from him, he quickly got me a replacement ujoint when I fubared one needle bearing and cap while installing it all and he was also readily availbale for questions DURING the install, as one or two small problems came up for me. All in all, top notch customer service!!

 

[AH64ID]

Seafish, how where the Spicers to install?

I have heard a lot of issues with them not fitting and needing to be ground, and that's on the "application specific" ones. Several of my local shops had so many issues they quit carrying them and only use the OEM AAM joints.

 

[seafish]

Seafish, how where the Spicers to install?

I have heard a lot of issues with them not fitting and needing to be ground, and that's on the "application specific" ones. Several of my local shops had so many issues they quit carrying them and only use the OEM AAM joints.

So I do remember that there were in fact SPicer/AAM fitment issues early on between Spicer and the AAM axles that Dodge uses...apparently there was NO application specific Spicer/Dodge fitment available and the ones that were closest to fitting, STILL needed to have either the clip or the ear filed down by a few thousands. This was further complicated by Dodge using various front drive shaft parts that had different diameter knuckles, each permeation of which needed a diffferent ujoint. All that being said, my understanding now is that at a more recent point in time, Spicer DID choose to make and market application specific ujoints for the Dodge/AAM axles. I can attest to the fact that the ONLY problem I had with installing them were casued by me (lol) 1) I dropped one needle bearing in a cap while doing the cardan joint rebuild and 2) bending the ears on the front axle shafts knuckles slightly in when using a hydraulic press to push out the old ujoints...did NOT realize that I had bent them until not being able to get he clip in on the cap despite being fully seated...I actually thought that the SPicer/AAM fiutment issue had come to ahunt me, despite George's assurances, but then I took measurements and realized what happened!!! (lol)

In any case if you want an even clearer understanding, I do advise you to call George at 8Lug...I am sure that he would readily answer any specific questions you might still have.

So far, my truck is driving GREAT with the work I did (including the BD sway bar end links that I remember you were sceptical about!! (lol)

 

[cerberusiam]

All that being said, my understanding now is that at a more recent point in time, Spicer DID choose to make and market application specific ujoints for the Dodge/AAM axles.

Do you know if that is also true for the rear drivehaft? Jusy about ready to buy the 4140 conversion for one truck becausee cannot get rid of the vibrations in the rear driveshaft. I suspect the ears on the yoke have been bent as you saw happen and it is now out of line.

 

[seafish]

Do you know if that is also true for the rear drivehaft? Jusy about ready to buy the 4140 conversion for one truck becausee cannot get rid of the vibrations in the rear driveshaft. I suspect the ears on the yoke have been bent as you saw happen and it is now out of line.

Sorry Cerb, do NOT know for sure about the rear ujoints -- At 80k I convinced my dealer to upgrade the oem 2 piece DS (with the carrier bearing going bad for the 2nd time) with the oem one piece aluminum DS, so did not yet have to rebuild the rear DS this time around.

 

[AH64ID]

So I do remember that there were in fact SPicer/AAM fitment issues early on between Spicer and the AAM axles that Dodge uses...apparently there was NO application specific Spicer/Dodge fitment available and the ones that were closest to fitting, STILL needed to have either the clip or the ear filed down by a few thousands. This was further complicated by Dodge using various front drive shaft parts that had different diameter knuckles, each permeation of which needed a diffferent ujoint. All that being said, my understanding now is that at a more recent point in time, Spicer DID choose to make and market application specific ujoints for the Dodge/AAM axles. I can attest to the fact that the ONLY problem I had with installing them were casued by me (lol) 1) I dropped one needle bearing in a cap while doing the cardan joint rebuild and 2) bending the ears on the front axle shafts knuckles slightly in when using a hydraulic press to push out the old ujoints...did NOT realize that I had bent them until not being able to get he clip in on the cap despite being fully seated...I actually thought that the SPicer/AAM fiutment issue had come to ahunt me, despite George's assurances, but then I took measurements and realized what happened!!! (lol)

In any case if you want an even clearer understanding, I do advise you to call George at 8Lug...I am sure that he would readily answer any specific questions you might still have.

So far, my truck is driving GREAT with the work I did (including the BD sway bar end links that I remember you were sceptical about!! (lol)

I recall, it's been a year, that the local driveshaft shop was still having issues with the application specific ones. But for sure I know I went with AAM's at their recommendation.

Did you go with sealed or greaseable Spicers?

My only OE ujoints are the front driveshaft. The rear driveshaft was replaced with a 1 piece alum this spring, and has 1550 ujoints.

The reminds me, I never posted a link to the broken BD links... Glad they are working for you.

 

[CVR222NV]

I recall, it's been a year, that the local driveshaft shop was still having issues with the application specific ones. But for sure I know I went with AAM's at their recommendation.

Did you go with sealed or greaseable Spicers?

My only OE ujoints are the front driveshaft. The rear driveshaft was replaced with a 1 piece alum this spring, and has 1550 ujoints.

AH64ID, I am getting ready to install a Dynatrac Free Spin kit and Carli ball joints (among other front end upgrades). I was planning on upgrading all u-joints on the front axle and front driveshaft as part of the upgrade. Below are the u-joints I have identified:

Spicer U-Joints – Front axles - 5006813
Spicer U-Joint - Front drive shaft at pinion – 1330 series – 5-795X
Spicer U-Joint – Front drive shaft at Constant Velocity Double Cardan Joint – 1350 Series – 5-3208X (1 3/16” or 1.1875” cap)

Are you saying there are fitment issues with these Spicer u-joints? After reading all the issues with removing the u-joints from the front axle yokes I decided I would just take the axles once removed to the local driveline shop and have the old u-joints removed and the new Spicer u-joints installed with the new yoke supplied with the kit. I was also going to have the front driveshaft rebuilt with the Spicer u-joints and balanced as well. This is the first time I have heard of fitment issues with the Spicer u-joints.

Also, where did you purchase your rear aluminum driveshaft with the Spicer 1550 u-joints? The largest Spicer u-joints I have seen used on the aluminum driveshaft have been Spicer 1480's. Is that a difference between the 2005 (NV5600) and the 2006 (G56)?

 

[AH64ID]

The only joints I really looked at where the axle joints. I don't recall part numbers, but the 5006813 looks familiar. If it's their sealed ujoint for the axle joints then I would say it's the one with issues.

From what I found the AAM's where cheaper, and fit better. They also seem to be a good joint, when I pulled mine at over 80K miles they were still very solid.

I have six states build me a shaft, and it came with 1550's which are HUGE!

 

[CVR222NV]

Have you noticed any significant blockage of air to the intercooler? Since I ordered my bumper unpainted I was thinking of adding a duct or perhaps two to direct air where it needs to be.

After thinking about your question I popped my hood and took a look at the bumper and the cooling systems in the front grill area. The bumper covers the lower 1/3 of the coolers. However, unlike my stock bumper (going off recollection here) the Buckstop bumper has two openings on each side of the winch that measure 2 1/2" x 8" that allow air to the lower portion of the coolers. Rather than blockage it seems the Buckstop bumper will actually improve air flow.

I took some photos but can't figure how to attach them!

 

[seafish]

The only joints I really looked at where the axle joints. I don't recall part numbers, but the 5006813 looks familiar. If it's their sealed ujoint for the axle joints then I would say it's the one with issues.

Except for the ones of my own making, I had zero issues with installing the Spicer 5006813 on the front axle shafts on my 2005.

 

[cerberusiam]

However, unlike my stock bumper (going off recollection here) the Buckstop bumper has two openings on each side of the winch that measure 2 1/2" x 8" that allow air to the lower portion of the coolers.

The stock bumper has large air flow vents both above it and directly thru the middle of it. Buckstop is one that has some area to allow air in but it is no where near what the stock bumper has. Not sure it makes a difference as probably 3/4 of the cooler are is above the bumper, but, it is a concern.

 

[RDThompson]

After thinking about your question I popped my hood and took a look at the bumper and the cooling systems in the front grill area. The bumper covers the lower 1/3 of the coolers. However, unlike my stock bumper (going off recollection here) the Buckstop bumper has two openings on each side of the winch that measure 2 1/2" x 8" that allow air to the lower portion of the coolers. Rather than blockage it seems the Buckstop bumper will actually improve air flow.

I took some photos but can't figure how to attach them!

Thanks for checking, It's one less thing to fret about.

 

[CVR222NV]

After looking at photos of a stock Laramie bumper I agree with Cerberusiam that there is an opening between the tow hooks that is bigger than the openings in the Buckstop bumper. I am now wondering if the bottom of the Buckstop bumper is higher than the stock bumper by a couple of inches. The Buckstop tapers up from the frame to the wheel well about 6" which will require that you trim about 6" off your plastic wheel well liners. I also note that the two power steering lines going to the cooler appear more exposed than they did with the stock bumper. So much so that I am going to fabricate a skip plate to cover the area between the frame rails.

Bob, when you install your bumper take some measurements of the stock bumper so you can compare to the Buckstop bumper. I wish I had done so.

I think you will be pleased with your bumper decision although you will have to do some front end upgrades. We use these bumpers on most of our ranch trucks. We hit a Mule Deer buck on the highway going 70 mph at night and it cut the deer in half with no damage to the bumper or the truck. It works as advertised!

 

[Regcabguy]

Just removing your airdam on a stock bumper exposes your ps lines,cooler,radiator and intercooler.
I like the ADD Stealth unit in that they panel the sides so that I would think there would be more impact resistance to the corners.

 

[CVR222NV]

Looks like the ADD Stealth bumper integrates a skid plate into their bumper to protect the power steering lines. Nice bumper. Did you find out what it weighs over the stock bumper? Looks to be of a lighter design than the Buckstop. Good option if you are not looking to add a winch and probably less wear on the front end components.

I like the Buckstop Grill Guard for complete protection of the grill, lights and fenders. I decided on the Baja and it is massive. I had a bull Elk step out in front of me from behind a tree on the side of the road and while I was only going around 25mph and almost got it stopped I still tapped him and it took out the plastic grill. The ex-wife hit a Doe deer dead center going 75 mph down I-15 between St. George and Cedar City many years ago and the deer's head, ears and all, left an imprint on the plastic grill of our 3/4 ton Surburban. That impact took out the radiator.