"SWAMP COW AVOIDANCE LIGHTING"

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You will get quite a range of feedback on this. Do a search on "9004" within this website and you will see most of it.

IMHO: You might be able to get by without changing anything, but the conservative approach would be to bring bigger wires to the bulbs with a relay setup and due to heat issues do not attempt to drive both overwattage bulbs with some kind of 'britebox' idea. I would say that don't get into this conversion unless (worst case) you have the 'mad' money available to address melted headlight enclosures.
My justification is that I want the sport enclosures so if I melt these it just makes it easier to spend the money on the conversion. (no sign of melting at this point!!)

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Green Monster's cyber garage (and TDR multimedia sandbox)
Yahoo messenger: davidc3y

 

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well I have been running the 80/100 bulbs AND the britebox at the same time with no problems. The longest I have had this setup running continuous is three hours, and there was no overheating of the wiring or lenses. So at the very least I think either one modification is pretty safe on it's own. Take all this for what it's worth since my motto has always been if it ain't broke it sure as hell needs fixin'/can't leave well enough alone.

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'00 2500 reg cab LB 4x4, 5spd, LSD, Van Aaken, 275 injectors, regulator boost fooler w/elbow, combo boost/egt guage, line-x, alumasport diamond toolbox, vernier idle controler, cold front, Warn front receiver, ventvisors and stepguards by autoventshade, OEM foglights, Super H headlight bulbs, my own "brite box", hide-a-hook, loadsaver, G-tech, name a factory option - I don't have it!

 

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Hey David, the flickering I was talking about was a burned socket, seems the ground started melting things, so I went and got a set of sport headlamps and blinkers, got any suggetions, I printed the "2nd time around", I'm going to work on finishing tommarrow but I'd like to know if I can run low/high on the inners and high on the outer if I replace the wiring back to ??? any thoughts?

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'96 2500 4x4 3. 54 traclok,billit grill,blue head lights,tenzo blue fog lights,clear tail lights w/red bulbs,chrome front & rear dif covers, alumium bed rail covers and tailgate cover,3" stageII lift,35"BFG M/T's on alumium rims, Kenwood sterio system,tinted windows,westach 60lb boost/egt guage,NOS,bullydog LPG injection,360 degree K&N,"tweaked" pump, 4" exaust w/ flowmaster and a 5" tip,Jim Leonard dual disc clutch, 121k,best performances to date=14. 35@97. 8mph(2wd)Weds Mar22,TuesMarch21 351Hp on the motor,394Hp w/ NOS,428Hp w/ NOS and LPG on, You know the rest,yep brand new pherd there tonight, people came and talked tome,said the book says it make 400hp,LOL, running 22. 4 et, HeHe. '98 Prostreet FXR,Kenny Boyce,96" S&S,Thunder Header,Metzler,12. 10et@105mph

 

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I rigged my fogs to go on with the parking lamps (fog 1 in panel) and driving lights to go on with the brights (fog 2 in panel). SEE LINKS BELOW OR P 6 OF READERS RIGS.

there is NOTHING u can do to the oem's that isn't a bandaid on a bulletwound. With my fogs on I can't even tell that the regular lights are on. The fog beam is so flat I almost never get flashed, and when I do, my high beams and driving lights help them quickly recognize their mistake.

All the cops I've talked to are vague on the law. It states something about not being "dazzeling" and they suggest I use the driving lights sparingly.

Not liking the idea of butchering my interior, the switch installation is practically invisible. With a dremel I cut switch holes in the bottom edge of the instrument panel and up through the dash behind it. The fogs have on/off switch, and the drivers have on/off/on switch (2nd on is with parking lights - that way I never forget to turn em off).

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tedstruck 2500qc, no leather or abs
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