Switch Seat and Window Hot Wires

[Pull'nOld Iron]

Well, I'm really tired of sliding out of my truck and having my rear gear send my power seat buttons back to zero.



I traced the wires down in the service manual and they all come to a junction block inside under the cowling and dash area. I forget the number right now but can provide if needed.



The basic objective here is to switch the seat and window power wires so the windows will always be hot. That way I can operate them without the key on and the seat will be hot activated with the key. This will preclude me from adjusting the seat while getting in and out and allow me better window operation.



So with all that said has anyone tried this or know how difficult it will be locate and switch these wires?



Thought I'd ask the experts for some tips before I ripped the dash apart.



Thanks in advance.

 

[MCummings]

Me too.

I would like to know how to do this also.

Shoulda been this way from Factory.



MerrickNJr

 

[dremelts]

I have a "My Truck" file where I keep all sorts of information I come across on the net. One of the things that I have in there is a description of a procedure for making the windows powered all the time. This person was not concerned about changing the way the seat functioned but from what I can gather it should be fairly simple do what you are asking.



From what I can gather there are two breakers in the little fuse panel on the driver's side dash; one has switched power for the window and the other has constant power for the seat. It appears that all one would have to do is swap the power leads on the two breakers so that switched power goes to the seat and constant power to the window.

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

dremelts

This sounds a lot easier than what I found. Anyone have more details on this option?



I would wonder if this is a printed circuit or actual leads that can be switched. I haven't looked into the fuse box but it certainly sounds a lot easier.



Thanks dremelts for idea, I'll check this out as soon as I can..... if it ever stops raining around here.

 

[dremelts]

I have a "My Truck" file where I keep all sorts of information I come across on the net. One of the things that I have in there is a description of a procedure for making the windows powered all the time. This person was not concerned about changing the way the seat functioned but from what I can gather it should be fairly simple to do what you are asking.



From what I can gather there are two breakers in the little fuse panel on the driver's side dash; one has switched power for the window and the other has constant power for the seat. It appears that all one would have to do is swap the power leads on the two breakers so that switched power goes to the seat and constant power to the window.

 

[dremelts]

Oops... sorry about the double post. I got an error the first time I tried to post it so I tried again.

 

[illflem]

I connected my window wire onto the power seat wire behind the fuse block so I could roll up the windows without turning the key back on, seat remained always hot. Easy job in an uncomfortable place. Don't see why you couldn't just trade wires instead. Think the reason for having the seat hot all the time is because you're supposed to adjust the seat before you drive. Probably a law to protect those of us that can't chew gum and tap their feet at the same time...

 

[Cooker]

Fritz's site has the info on the power window "hot" modfication.



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/mods/electric/window_power.htm



I just want to say thanks to Dave for hosting all the valuable info for us.



Hope this helps,

Ryan

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

Thanks for the options and information. I'm going to look into switching the wires between the two behind the fuse panel. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[SS]

This is something I've wanted to do for a long time. Procrastinated until you guys made it easy on me to find the wires - I've seen instructions for splicing into different circuits, but this was easier.



I was going to change the wires in the connector, but since it is difficult to access, I made 4 jumpers about 3" in length. Each jumper has a male and female spade connector. I took the circuit breakers for the seats and the windows out of the fuse panel on the left side of the dash. I then plugged the jumpers onto the circuit breakers and plugged them into the fuse panel so the top left/bottom right wires and the top right/bottom left wires were on the same breaker. Taped up the connectors on the breakers and put the fuse cover back on. Be careful or disconnect the batteries. Seems to work - I'll post if I find any troubles with this. I love this place!

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

DodgeTorqueWagon

This sounds like an option. Do you have any specifics on the wire gauge used, can you post a picture... <1000 words. .



Anyway I tried switching the wires on the back of the fuse panel route last night and found out, after about 2 hours of putzing, that the side dash panel has a screw that is not accessible. You can not access the back of the junction block with this panel in place. At least I can't. :{



In my original post I indicated a connector, found the number, #203. This connector is waaayyy easier to access than anything on the junction block. This connector is located right near the base of the steering column, next to a white box. One problem. How do you switch the wires on the pins without having DC's "special toll number 6934



So off to the local DC store, then NAPA as suggested and still no tools to be found. Anyone know where I can get one of these, its for the Thomas and Betts type of connectors. It looks like a T handled allen wrench only the body resembles a pipe with a slot cut out of it, that grabs the wire and I guess releases a tab holding the wire.



I really like the idea of switching these leads but I may have to resolve myself to placing these jumpers in the Junction block like you suggested.



So if you can post some further details please do. I'm no electrical expert and am concerned about using the wrong stuff the wrong way.



Thanks again, keep those suggestions coming.

 

[SS]

Tim, sorry I don't have the technology for photos.



Wire size looks like #18 or so - check the wires going to the seat motor under the seat and pick a size at least that big. The breakers are the two silver boxes about 3/8" x 3/4" - they are numbered 20 and 21 in the fuse panel located on the left side of the instrument panel. The fuse panel cover also identifies them. They are both 20 amps.



Disconnect the batteries if you are concerned. The top terminal where each of the breakers plugs in is the hot side. You could use red wire for those and black wire for the two lower terminals. That way if you connect a red and a black connector to each breaker you can't hurt the truck. When you are done, if it operates the same as it does right now, just switch the black wires. Make sure you use electrical tape on any exposed part of the terminals and check that all of the connections are snug. When you get the jumpers and the breakers plugged in, test it, then stuff the breakers back in next to the fuse panel and put the cover on.



You could use some fully insulated terminals to plug onto the breakers and you may also want to put a piece of foam tape around the breakers just to prevent rattles.



Hope this helps. And thanks for getting me motivated.



Steve

 

[C.]

I do not have power seats, but I did hook up the power windows to the power seat circuit. I did so the way DodgeTorqueWagon descrided.



The only problem I have found is that there are lights on the window/lock switches on the armrests. These lights are constantly illuminated even when the key is removed. I have been running this way for a year without any problems. If you leave your truck sit for extended periods it may drain the battery.

 

[Fuzz]

I did the ckt brkr thing like Dodgetorquewagon. I noticed that I also had those darn lights on,in the switches. Bummer.

Guess I could run the relay to the dome light and all but instead I think I will leave the breakers hanging and switch the the bottom wires when I use the pickup.

We usually just use it for extended trips,mostly with the trailer so

shouldn't be a pain to switch then and not have to worry about

how long it has sat with them lights on.

 

[SS]

Thanks fellas for the tip on the indicator lights being on when you switch power leads. I noticed that too when I drove it at night.



I had the door switch apart and found it could be defeated by breaking the connection on the circuit board. I figure it's just 5 small LED's, so the radio memory probably uses more power when the truck is off. No big deal.

 

[Cooker]

I can't imagine the little lights drawing much juice. If you drive the truck at least once a week, I don't think I would worry about the lights drawing the batts down.



JMHO,

Ryan

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

DodgeTorqueWagon

After reviewing your suggestions and don't misunderstand me I appreciate all info, won't this still leave the seat as power hot with the key off as it will get juice from the junction block circuit.



Anyone else know about the tool # previously called out?



I guess if I can't find the tool I can look into splicing these two wires back to each other's power route.



Keep those ideas coming, we can improve on DC's ideas, or lack thereof.



Thanks

 

[Cooker]

I think if you swap the wires in the back you are doing the same thing. The circuit will still he hot all the time.



The "fix" on Fritz's site only allowed "key-off" power window operation with the one dome light on. This way it is not hot all the time,

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Cooker

The "fix" on Fritz's site only allowed "key-off" power window operation with the one dome light on. This way it is not hot all the time,

Fellows,



The reason Dodge doesn't build their vehicles with "power windows always hot" is because they can't under DOT/NHTSA regulations. Back in my younger days, cars used to come this way, but small kids managed to get into unlocked, unattended cars, stick their heads into an open window, hit the power window switch and strangle themselves, crush their windpipes or break their necks. Just something to think about for those of you with little kids.



Edit: A second reason is that all a thief would need to do is get a coat hanger wire between the door and cab, hit any window switch, roll it down and he's in. Like most things in life, the Law of Unintended Consequences works here, too.



Rusty

 

[SS]

Tim, no sweat on the instructions. Others have already done it, and I've picked up more than my share of info from the site, so glad to spend a few minutes helping if I can. If you choose to do it another way that's no problem for me - lots of options are good.



Rusty, I was thinking about the coat hanger in the door too, but right next to the window switch is the power door lock switch which would be just as easy to activate. Besides, the would-be thief would have to know your truck was wired that way. The stranglin' of kids, however... well, let's just say it's something to be vigilant about. (I HATE seeing lawsuits where the kid left in a running car gets it into gear and causes great damage/death - it's illegal in EVERY state to leave kids unattended in a running vehicle. This responsibility falls square on the parents. )



Steve