Switch Seat and Window Hot Wires

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by DodgeTorqueWagon

It's illegal in EVERY state to leave kids unattended in a running vehicle. This responsibility falls square on the parents.

Steve,



Yep, I agree. The problem with the "power windows always hot" feature that used to be standard back in the 50's is the car that's sitting unattended in the driveway or garage unlocked with the window down and not running. The kids would climb into the car, start playing with the power windows and someone would get hurt or killed. That's the reason DOT/NHTSA now only allows the power windows to be powered up off the ignition key.



Rusty

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

Well, I can't find a resource for "special tool #6934". So I'm going to look at the degree of difficulty in splicing the wires the way I want them at Connector #203. If DC has provided suitable length to splice I'll provide some feedback.



Thanks to all for the ideas. This is the greatest resource.



Thanks again

 

[Ramboy]

Tim,

You may be able to find the tool you are looking for at Radio Shack, Graybar, etc. I work with a lot of electronic connectors and use this tool occasionally.

Phil

 

[Pull'nOld Iron]

Project Completed

Okay, here's how I accomplished the desired outcome. Which was; to shutoff the power seat operation when the key was turned off to avoid unwanted adjustment. Secondly, to have window operation with the key in the off position.



Under the dash is connector #203. It is located to the outboard side of the stearing column near the firewall. To describe the location further; it is a white connector, secured with a black swing gate flange. This connector is adjacent to a white boxed connection which has a stub protruding out of the center of the box.



So disconnect the batteries, disconnect the connector from its mate and get it into a spot where you can work on it.



Find the tan wire (power window hot) and the red wire with the light blue tracer (seat, switched hot). Carefully cut back the covering tape to reveal more wire length. Cut these wires at the same spot in length, do not stagger the splice connections at this point.



Crimp a splice connector onto each wire at the connector #203 side first, stripping a section of the wire first. Relocate connector #203 to its mate and determine how you want to stagger your splices for smooth splices that won't strain the wiring. Trim and strip the wires and connect the tan source wire to the red/lghtblu splice on the connector #203 side. Connect the remaining wires, re-wrap with 2 6" lengths of tape and reconnect to its mate.



Sorry for the long post but I need good detail on such things so I thought I would try to provide it.



This isn't the only way to skin this cat, as previous posts indicate, I just think it is the easiest without any unknown complications.



Pros:

Easy, desired outcome, no special equipment or materials



Cons:

My lock on connector #203 seems to be a little tempormental and would not reseat to a firm connection. I placed a little high-tack on it to secure. No problem.



The lights on the window switches remain luminated all the time. I do not have a problem with this. My windows are tinted so nobody can see it and the draw is insignificant, less than my fuzzbuster is.



So I'm



Hope this helps someone!

 

[Cooker]

Congrats on the BOMB.



When the weather warms up again around here, I have to start looking around and decide which I'd like to do.



Ryan