Switching to synthetic oil

[Radshooter]

I've been running dino oil since I bought the truck new in '03. I change oil and filter every 2K miles. Now, I don't drive it near as much as I did when we were full-time RVers. Usually, I hit the 6 month mark before I hit the 2K mile mark. The truck has around 75,000 miles if that makes a difference.

It is getting harder on my old bones to do an oil/filter change now than it was 15 years ago. Thinking about synthetic to extend time/miles between changes.

Questions: Is there anything special I need to do to switch or is it really as simple as drain/refill?

What kind of mileage/time increments am I looking at between changes?

Can I run the same oil filter? I have always used Stratopore LF 16035.

Since I don't drive it that much anymore, is it worth the added expense to switch? Is synthetic ok in low mileage driven vehicles?

Any favorite brands to look for or to stay away from?

Thanks for your input.
Steve

 

[KOG]

I've run annual changes in gas engines for decades using mostly Mobil 1. I don't do that with my diesels because of different operating conditions which make me concerned about fuel dilution of oil. So I use conventional oil in the diesels and change it at much lower mileage than the cars. If you run only long trips at high speeds you can get some benefit from synthetic and extended changes.

 

[BLNRAY]

I have an 03 with 445k mi on it all on synthetic,Mobil 1.its always used fleetguard or donalson filters,oil and filter changed around 10,000 mi.,never used oil between changes.i use synthetic in everything.

 

[SnoKing]

I've been running dino oil since I bought the truck new in '03. I change oil and filter every 2K miles. Now, I don't drive it near as much as I did when we were full-time RVers. Usually, I hit the 6 month mark before I hit the 2K mile mark. The truck has around 75,000 miles if that makes a difference.

It is getting harder on my old bones to do an oil/filter change now than it was 15 years ago. Thinking about synthetic to extend time/miles between changes.

Questions: Is there anything special I need to do to switch or is it really as simple as drain/refill?

What kind of mileage/time increments am I looking at between changes?

Can I run the same oil filter? I have always used Stratopore LF 16035.

Since I don't drive it that much anymore, is it worth the added expense to switch? Is synthetic ok in low mileage driven vehicles?

Any favorite brands to look for or to stay away from?

Thanks for your input.
Steve

Why don't you just change oil at around 5K like most people do? You sure have wasted a lot of oil. SnoKing

 

[Mark31]

Steve, I switched to Amsoil when CL4+ oil was phased out because the CJ oils didn't meet the specs . Mostly I think that the CJ oils have done fine, and if I had known that this would have proved to be a non issue, I don't know that I would have switched. Unless you live in a humid area with wild temperature swings that make engines "sweat" a lot, I would take a 100 mile trip every quarter, and change the dino oil once a year before winter sets in. If "your bones are old" or even if they are not so old, that Cummins stands a good chance of being sound longer than the rest of the truck and you and me and my old bones.

 

[Radshooter]

Why don't you just change oil at around 5K like most people do? You sure have wasted a lot of oil. SnoKing

I guess I do it that way because that is what Dad taught me growing up on the farm.

Maybe I will switch to 5K/yearly. We live in Northern AZ for now. Pretty dry here. We drive into Flagstaff once a month or so to get groceries and what not, and alternate trips with the Dodge and 4Runner. It is about 85 miles one way, so by the time we get there, do our running around, and get home, a couple hundred miles is common. It is a good run to keep things lubed up and running.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Tuesdak]

How many miles does it get per year? By the 2003 owners manual they can go 10,000 to 15,000 miles between oil changes. CA engines are 3750 miles and 7500 miles.

Or 1 year whatever comes 1st.

If you have any doubts sample the oil and send it to a lab. You don't need synthetic, in fact, fleets ask for distance on conventional oil and some conventional oil will outlast synthetic by distance. Synthetic is good for extreme heat or hot rod tunes.

Most times the oil can outlast the oil filters endurance so a good oil filter is more important than "what oil". You already use a good one.

 

[Radshooter]

Now days we are doing good to get 5K/year on the gal. Usually closer to 3K. The once a year in the fall oil change plan sounds pretty good.

I've thought about trading it in for something smaller, but I really like this truck and it is paid for. When we get retired and move back to the farm in a few years, it will handle anything we can hook to it. Gonna hang on to it for as long as I can shift the gears.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Steve

 

[JR]

The latest spec, CK4, is the most robust diesel engine oil to date.
Additional, more stringent tests for oxidation and aeration, increased shear stability, and piston scuffing to name a few.

I wouldn't hesitate to run annual (yearly) OCI based on your usage, this with conventional oil. Won't hurt a thing.

 

[brods]

A warning about switching to synthetic in an older engine: oil seepage! I bought some name brand oil that was on clearance for our gasoline cars and both were seeping oil much worse than before. Turns out the clearance oil was full synthetic. Both cars have high mileage (120K+ and 200K+) which probably plays a factor.

Count your blessings that you have a pre egr 03. I change the oil in the 05 every 5K even though recommended change interval is much higher simply because I just can't bring myself to accept that the black as tar oil is still good for the engine. If I had a 03 or 04 I'd be running to the max miles recommended in the maintenance schedule before changing the oil or when it started getting discolored, whichever came first.

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks everybody. Annual oil changes with dino oil are looking pretty good.

Steve

 

[Dan_69GTX]

I totally agree with JR!

You might want to consider the yearly change in the spring. You have more chance of condensation, contamination buildup, etc in the oil in the winter if you don't get the oil good and hot long enough to get rid of that stuff compared to the summer driving. Because of the chance of that I normally change oils (in the once a year category) in the spring. (Vehicles, air compressors, outdoor equipment, etc). YMMV.

My truck is normally used as a truck, not a daily driver, no short commutes. I put about 5-6K a year on it. I'm gonna change it once a year now that the "break in" is completed. I can't get myself to change 3 gal of synthetic and filter after 2K miles.

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks Dan.
I understand the condensation issues. I understand how it is more pronounced with short winter drives. But, can you explain why spring oil changes are better than fall oil changes? Not arguing with you, just trying to understand.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Dan_69GTX]

In the spring, If you have any thing in the oil from winter driving - condensation or contaminants - changing the oil then makes sure it doesn't stay in the engine. In the fall, there shouldn't be as much "stuff" in the oil.

 

[Radshooter]

Aaahhhh! (Light bulb moment!)

Thanks

 

[Mark31]

Dan, I agree with you. My thinking, however flawed, is that I would like my oil/additive package to be new for the special stresses that winter brings. The thoughts of cold weather starts with "old" oil kinda makes me cringe! LOL

 

[Killer223]

being i live in Flagstaff, and have 3 of these cummins powered trucks, the best oil to run is the one thats on sale. i'm lucky to get an oil change every year on some of my trucks. still have a combined 700+K miles. no issues. i change mine at 7500 miles. the 95 12V it's been 2+ years on the same oil tractor supply travellers, and no it's not hurting anything. the 04 has been about 1 1/2 years on this oil, currently Mobile Delvac MX F2, https://www.mobil.com/en/mobil-delvac/products/engine-oils/mobil-delvac/mobil-delvac-mx-f2
the 08 get's driven the most, so it's usually 1-2 times a year pending on how many road trips we go.
that said. watch the miles. 5000-7500 is fine. and if you are ever in need of a change, contact me come to my place and i'll help ya do it. you supply the oil and filters though.

 

[Radshooter]

Thank you Killer223...that is a very kind offer!
I still enjoy getting under the truck, but now I use a creeper instead of a sheet of cardboard and it takes a bit longer.
If nothing else I would like to buy you a cup of coffee sometime just for making the offer.

Steve

 

[slowmover]

Time more important than miles when short trips (under 100-miles) are the use, IMO.

I changed mine to Rotella T6 less than a year after purchased (second owner @ 120k). Now at 220k eleven years later. Turns over just a little easier than with dino.

Baldwin or Donaldson oil filters (understand that full flow filters really don’t do much) as quality assurance.

I consider fuel filters more important than oil changes (as these pre-emissions tunes are incredibly easy on oil when stock), but not more than a year.

I favor doing the changes with annual inspection/registration. May or June. Just ahead of period with potential extended idling in my area (A/C use). That’s also when Truck may go for tire inspection or similar.

IOW, the May oil change became time for all sorts of close annual inspections or changes.

 

[User113]

Read the quote from John Martin on page 62, of TDR 101 (regarding "these old '89-'07 engines": "So go ahead: test the new oil sample, test again at 10K miles, and test again at 15K or 20K miles. Make sure the viscosity is in-grade (12.5-16.3 for 40 grade). Make sure the total base number (TBN) is at least as high as the total acid number (TAN). When these two numbers are equivalent, change the oil."

And Robert Patton on page 63, "...talking about lube oil is like talking about religion. It is doubtful that you can change anyone's mind. I'm comfortable with a 20,000 mile change interval (non-'07.5-'12). I'm comfortable with three years."

And Stan Gozzi's column: "In fact I'm confident that you could double the oil change interval on a Cummins and never have an oil related problem."

With a Fumoto drain valve, taking an oil sample and getting it tested is way faster, easier, and cheaper than changing it. If you don't like doing changes, this is for you.