Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Symptoms of a Bad Lift Pump

[Rebel_Horseman]

Is there any way to tell, other than the use of a fuel pressure gauge, to tell if a LP is going or already has crapped out? Would there be a change in tone of the motor or a rough idle or anything?



Also, I'm going to try to find the instructions on how to change out a LP just in case mine craps out. I'm thinking about installing a new one just to be safe since I don't have gauges yet. If ya'll know off the abt where I can get the instructions I'd appreciate it.



Thanks,



Reb [><]

 

[duaneparks]

There are no symptoms of a lift pump failure. The VP44 will run seemingly fine until it fails, or so I've been told.



The ONLY way to know the pressure your lift pump is supplying is to hook up a gauge.



To replace the lift pump, remove the fuel lines from it, remove the fasteners holding it to the mount, then remove the electrical connection. That's it. Reverse the order when putting a new one in. Oh, practice your yoga first as it's in an awkward place. Also, you may want to pressurize your fuel tank before you try to start the truck. Proceed after that as if you just changed your fuel filter... ie, bump the starter, let the lift pump run 25 seconds and try to crank. If it doesn't crank, you may need to crack an injector line since you lost your prime when you disconnected the fuel lines... no way around it that I know of.



HTH.



Duane

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

There are symptoms but by the time your getting them the lift pump has been below specs for a long time. They also generally come on so gradually that you'll never notice it. You will notice a difference once you put a good pump on if you had a bad pump (by bad I mean REALLY bad as in drawing a vacuum). IMO, you definately need a gauge.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

I was afraid ya'll would say that. Now to debate. Spend the $150 and change out the LP and know that it's ok whether it needed it or not, or spend $350 on a set of gauges and know for sure either way plus have the coolness of gauges. I've gat a feeling that my credit card is about to get some exercise.



Thanks for the replies,



Reb [><]

 

[Ron Bissett]

Change out the pump ,and then drive down the road then think is the pump working ? Ever hear dead out of the box or did I get a lemon . First the gauge then if needed change the pump . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY:-{}

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I did my electric fuel pressure gauge setup along with 2 senders, a switch to switch between them, and a mount for just over $100. There's no reason you need to spend $350 for a fuel pressure gauge. I went through 4 lift pumps between 28,000 and 65,000 miles and never would have known those went bad without a gauge.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Thanks Steve and all of ya'll. I went ahead and broke down and bought my full gauge setup. Figured I needed the fuel gauge and the rest of them are needed anyway. Migh as well go ahead and spend the money now and do it right the first time. At least now I can go ahead and start saving for my future BOMBs as well as the future repairs that are sure to come.



Reb [><]

 

[claymike]

If your pump is at 0 psi you will know when you change your fuel filter:--) I am on my sixth lift pump at 75,000 miles, #7 is under my rear seat

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Well, I'm glad I have gauges, even if it's been a pain in the arse so far. Hooked up my fuel pressure and EGT so far. At idle the gauge shows about 5 or 6 psi! At WOT it's down to about 2. Ordering the pump in the morning. Now I just hope there's no permanent damage to the VP. Guess I better start saving up anyway. Maybe I'll get lucky and my fuel pressure line from the filter has a kink in it. I know there are some air bubbles in the line from the sender to the gauge. Would that throw off my gauge?



Thanks,



Brian

 

[duaneparks]

Reb...



I've read on here many times that as long as the VP44 is not pulling a vacuum, it should be fine. I've also read that pressures should not ever be below 7psi (even at WOT) to ensure VP44 longevity.



Sounds like you caught yours just in time.



Thought about relocating that lift pump to the frame? There is a TON of info on here about how to do it. Just a thought. I was going to do mine, but at the time I didn't have the time or $$ to do the relocation, so I bought a sacrificial pump (needed one anyway) to last me until I get the gumption or $$ to do it.



Duane

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Duane, it's strange you mentioned it becase I'm doing the same thing. I want to relocate the pump, but after spending close to $400 on my gauges and now another $175 on the LP (need the truck for the weekend so I'm getting it overnighted here otherwise I could save about $25). I'm looking at this one as a sacrifice as well. I've looked at the FASS system from Piers and that's probably the route I'm going to go once I can get the dinero saved up. My how money seems to disappear around this thing.



Reb [><]

 

[Rogue Ram]

I know there's a ton of info on the fp gauges, but generally speaking, which is the easiest for the do it yourselfer to install???? I've never been too clear on that one.



RR

 

[Big_Daddy_T]

I just had my forth or fifth lift pump installed(1st on this truck). I dont have a fp guage on it. I noticed a loss of power and bad fuel mileage. Its all better now. They want to do the 18-11-99. Im debating risking it. Ohh. I noticed more white smoke than normal one morning on a cold start. Like the engine was starving for fuel. I mean I went down the road and it was smoking pretty good while I was sitting at the stop sign. I was watching it drift past and across the road in front of me. I then knew my suspicions were correct. If you are sure its a fuel pump. You can take it in on a loss of power, bad mileage, hard start basis. They will fix you up. Oh yeah. It was running 4psi at idle or worse. While in neutral.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Rogue:



Don't know which is easier because all I could gather was info on the wya I did it. i've hear about installing it straight into the VP but I couldn't figure out which fitting. I installed using a replacement banjo bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter housing. It's a "simple" enough job but the location of the fitting an the fact you can't see the sucker makes it a serious pain in the butt. If you have the right tools it might be easier, as I was making due with a crescent wrench.



Reb [><]

 

[GILLES]

There is no filter from the fuel cell to the LP. The LP is getting all the crap of a bad tank. after 3 LP at 65 000 , I am looking to install some kind of filter between the fuel cell and the LP.

Any recomendations?



1998. 5 4x4 quad. K+N, 4'' exhaust, shift kit, fuel pressure

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Check out the FASS system from Piers. Itlooks to me to be a replacement for both the LP and the fuel filter. You may even be able to use the stock fuel filter as an additional filter.



Reb [><]

 

[bombero]

Does anyone have the latest LP stock number? Also where is the best(cheepest) place to order one. thanks

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

I went to Rush Truck Center here in Shreveport to order mine. They are a Cummins seller adn they work on them too (it's a Peterbilt dealership and service center). Check out www.dodgeram.org and you can follow the links to all the Cummins part numbers for everything. I ordered mine for $148 plus another $20 for overnight shipping.



Reb [><]

 

[bombero]

Reb; thanks for the info. Thats a good stie. Just added it to my favorites.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

10-4.



I've gotten a ton of useful info form them.



BOMB's away!



Reb [><]