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Synthetic Oils

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I was told by the Engineer at Royal Purple that I could get by changing the oil at 20 - 25 K as long as the filters were replaced every 3000 miles or so. He also said that a bypass filter setup would be much better than the stock filter. The most I have taken the oil is to about 12K before replacing as I have a bad feeling about running any farther. (I sometimes tow a travel trailer that weighs around 6000 lbs). Have been changing the filters around 2500 miles. Does anyone have any comments about running synthetic longer than conventional oil?

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K
 
Stan:

I have ran four cycles of 25K miles on Amsoil synthetics and just fleetgard Filters. I change filter every 6K. No bypass installed... . YET! Even at those miles the oil checks out fine with very high TBN yet.

My miles are mixed hard pulling, intown driving and very cold winter (ND) driving. A real test of good oil.

jjw
ND
 
Hi Pacool!

It's been done successfully for over 20 years with AMSOIL products, and with some of the newcommers too. Most 18 wheelers that run AMSOIL AVERAGE over 100,000 mi between oil changes with full flow filter changes every 12,500 mi, bypass filter changes and oil analysis every 25,000 mi.

Properly formulated synthetics are a whole new ballgame.

Rudy
 
Thanks JJW and Rudy for the replys. Guess I'm not screwing up too bad. Was (am) considering a bypass system just for extra protection. I've always been a user of WIX filters and thats what I've been using with the Royal Purple. Do you feel there is much difference with the fleetguard filters?

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K
 
As a rule of thumb a synthetic oil can be run longer than a pertoleum oil. There are exceptions to that rule. LE oil 15w40 is a petroleum oil and will go extremely long oil drains with very little wear. In fact they see 80 to 90% less wear with long oil drains than the regular oils do with short oil drains.

The reason regular oils don't go longer in general is because most of them are formulated for short oil drains. And also are formulated to meet minimum MFG specs. There are some petroleum oils that are formulated for long drains just like the synthetics.

In fact, some of the synthetics don't go as long as some of the petroleum oils do. Lets look at Castrol syntec vs Castrol Super fleet everyone knows that syntec is synthetic and that super fleet is petroleum. The wear rates on the super fleet and is much lower than the Syntec. Also the oxidation rate is much better on the petroleum super fleet than the synthetic syntec. That's not just Castrol it is the same with other companies as well. look at the Valvoline premium Blue petroleum and Valvoline Premium Blue 2000 synthetic. The petroleum blue has better oxidation and less wear than the synthetic blue 2000.

If you're looking for the lowest wear and longest oil drain interval, then buy LE #8800 15w-40. You can get it at Mag-Hytec 1-818-786-8325 ask for Roy the owner.

Sincerely, Kevin
 
Isnt it true that engine contaminants affect
synthetics the same way they affect the
petroleum based oils and that it would be
more cost effective to buy the cheaper oils
and just change more often?
 
Terry G,
Your question was;
Isnt it true that engine contaminants affect
synthetics the same way they affect the
petroleum based oils and that it would be
more cost effective to buy the cheaper oils
and just change more often?

An oil, synthetic or petro, costly or cheep has to incounter the same comtaminants in the engine. (talking about diesel engines) This part of your question is true, however how an oil handles the comtaminants is the key to how much or how little wear happens, or how long an oil can handle soot before it can't handle it anymore and starts to develop deposits or build up soot that developes into bigger particles and starts to wear on you cylinder walls.

The answer is not all oils are made the same. you can buy a cheep oil and change it often and you still get the higher specific wear rate then you would if you used a high quality oil, weather it be synthetic or petroleum. For instance an oil that uses mostly calcium and not very much Magnesium is not a long drain oil and if you tryed to go longer oil drains you would end up with higher wear rates and soot buildup etc. But if you use an oil that was made for longer oil drains like LE or Amsoil and others etc. that have a lot of magneisum and don't rely so much on the cheep Calcium (Calcium and Magnesium do the same thing degergent/dispersant) then you can rest assured that the oil will go long drains without higher wear. You can buy cheep oil and you will always have a cheep oil in your $10,000 engine or you can spend a little more and have the best protection $ can buy. I believe that anyone that is in the oil business selling petroleum or synthetic high quality or cheep will agree that there are oils out there that will last longer and reduce wear better than a cheep oil.

I'll use Amsoil and LE for examples because they are the most talked about on this sight. Both Amsoil and LE have engines that have gone 100,000 miles without draining the oil. These same engines have gone over 1,000,000 miles with no overhauls. Knowing this and knowing how much the oil cost compairison is between say LE and regular oil about 3 times mor for LE you would only have to go 3 times longer for the oil to pay for itself. Since a lot ot guys only go 3,000 miles before changing oil that would only be 9,000 miles. Also keep in mind that we see 3 to 7% fuel savings using LE over regular oils (does fuel cost mean anything today???) Figure that into the equation and which one is more expensive now? Recently a comparison was done with a 8. 2L Detroit diesel engine in a school bus that was going 6,000 miles on an oil change using a major brand diesel oil talked about a lot on this sight. They switched to LE and that same engine went 25,700 miles without an oil change. The wear ppm per mile were recuced by; irom down 82%, copper down by 88% and lead down by 91%. Fuel soot was reduced by 76%, the viscosity was maintined in the middle of the SAE 40 range and the TBN is still high. I've used high quality oil for over 21 years and will never go back to cheep oil.

Sincerely, Kevin

Both oils drains were extablished by using oil analysis.
 
Oilman,
Thanks for all the information. I'm pretty new at this and can use all the help I can get. I even got an E-Mail from someone regarding the question on the WIX filters. This is why I joined TDR - all the great help from experienced folks such as yourself.
I bought my 93 used to see if I would like a diesel. Was going to buy a new one if I did. Not only do I like it, but after reading some of the postings I will probably just keep the 93!

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K
 
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