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Synthetics

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I called my dealer for advice and price on synthetic lubricants in my truck. He said it isn't worthwhile to put synthetics in the transmission and axles. I didn't argue with him about it.



I know there are some Amsoil distributors around Louisville, KY, but I can't remember (or find) who you are. I'm hoping one of you will see this post and e-mail me (or reply). It'll be towing season soon and I'm hoping to be ready. Anybody got the difinitive answer about what viscosity is best, etc? Thanks in advance, O learned ones...
 
If you are looking for Amsoil give Briar Hopper a PM or email. He is in Kentucky and if he cannot help you he will point out someone that will.



Your dealer is not the sharpest tool in the shed if he told you the synthetics are not worthwhile. :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by 5thram

I called my dealer for advice and price on synthetic lubricants in my truck. He said it isn't worthwhile to put synthetics in the transmission and axles.



Huh? :confused: If you tow, the owner's manual tells you to get rid of the 90W in the rear axle and replace it with a 75W-140 synthetic. You might want to point this out to your dealer. :rolleyes:



I'm running Royal Purple 85W-140 synthetic in the rear axle. It already has the friction modifier built in, and I have no LSD chatter using no Mopar friction modifier.



Rusty
 
5thRam, hello to a fellow Kentuckian ! I tried to access my PM, but the server being down today is evidently keeping me from accessing my inbox... . you may email me at -- email address removed -- I'll be glad to answer any questions you may have, in these forums or through an email.
 
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5th Ram,

I agree with Rusty. The axle should have a synthetic oil in it for towing. it just works better in this application and is not too costly in the long run.

Not sure what a DEE is... if it is the manual transmission I would recommend using the factory lubricant. If it is an auto trans I could not tell ya what the best thing to use is.



Many good synthetics to choose from the axle lube. I personally would stay with the 75/140 or 85/140 weight oil. Some will try and tell ya the 75/90 is fine. I dont think it is. No matter what brand it is.



Torco, Red-Line, Royal Purple all make good axle lubes.





Klenger, if you have soot in your rear end you should see a Doc:D







Don~
 
Too slow! Missed the soot!







If it is an auto, and your towing, the smartest thing you could do to that transmission is go synthetic.

Towing COOKS autos, and these need all the help they can get.



The 5 speeds come with a "synthetic"(term used loosely) and the 6 speeds have a special concoction from Texaco.



I would change both under 20,000 miles.



. Perhaps this dealer likes warranty work, or future repairs.



And Don, Yer list is a touch short. :eek:
 
MGM, I was thinking it was kinda short too.



let me add a few more, here are some more great choices:



Texaco lubricants

Lubrication Engineers

Castrol

Chevron products

Kendall

Valvoline



Other oils would not make my list because of seal failures I have had with them in the recent past.



Don~
 
Being concerned with the welfare of the TDR boys like you are, maybe you would be so kind to do a search on LEAKS or SEALS and see what oils the guys were using when the failures happened.

Maybe even a poll.



Now I know for a fact, that most, if not all, of the list above are going to be in use during these leaks.



Now, unless we have a HUGE double standard here, we would HAVE to blame those oil companies for leaks, now wouldn't we?



Seals leak becaue they are bad, misinstalled, or blown out.

Oil does not cause seals to break down, quite the opposite. Oil saves seals.

Gene
 
In spite of my jousting on the subject of synthetics and extended ENGINE oil changes, I have synthetic in my differential and US Gear OD - and WOULD have it in my AT if it wasn't a high-mileage unit, and transmission experts advise against it due to tendency of a total system flush and synthetic installation to stir up loose wear debris in the transmission. and cause problems... But whenever that transmission gets rebuilt, you can BET synthetic WILL be installed!;) :D
 
MGM,



Oils do not cause seal failures per se, but the chemical additives do. Tests have been developed and some oils fail these seal tests. The ASTM and the SAE both have a good set of test perameters to find out if certain chemical properties in oil will/can attack seals.

I have spoken with the Dupont corp and testing lab here in the area about how, when and what it takes to get seals analyized.

It all kinda depends on the type of seal in question. Whether Viton, rubber, silicon, nitrile, etc. In one of my cases I had a bad silicone seal leak from fluids I installed. Silicone seals will not hold up in certain alkali enviros. Gasoline is a bad thing for silicone. Gear oil and extreme pressure additives all attack silicone type seals and can/will cause leaks. My transfer case seal leak is easily explained.

Im still working on gettin the stuff all compiled for you to see.



I will add the seals in my engine were 4 years old and the engine had about 175,000 miles on it.



After a quick search of the forums I came up with plenty of people in the same boat as me. Some sell oils too.



Don~
 
MGM,



I dont know. Lets talk about something different.

Im working hard not to mention brands on this thread.



I still like synthetic oils for certain stuff.



Don~
 
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