Synthetics

[Don M]

Ill tell ya what it is after you tell me about the shortage of barbers in your area. Talk about a hairdoo. :--)



Hope you guys know this is just fun and I dont mean any of it.



Don~~~~~~~~

 

[HC]

He said it isn't worthwhile to put synthetics in the transmission and axles.

If he feels that way, then I wouldn't let him do the changes, regardless of what you eventually decide. #1, he's unaware of the DC requirement to use synthetic in the rear, #2, if he really believes it doesn't matter, he might put anything in and tell you it's synthetic just to make you happy.

For the DEE 6 speed transmission, I'd suggest you stay with the factory-required Texaco lube until your warranty has expired. You're towing, and you don't want to open the door to any denied warranty claims. JMO

 

[JJW_ND]

75w90 Does Just Fine!

Just wanted to add that 75W90 has been very good in my case. Switched at 26K. Changed ever 30 - 40K. Sample every change. Never had a high wear metals sample yet. Oil usually gives out because of high TAN.



Last sample with 38K on the oil had a Iron reading of 98ppm. The lab flags the sample once it gets to 1000ppm (one thousand). Had right wheel seal changed at 17K. Pinion seal changed at 198K. Nothing else ever done. Have 206K todate.



Truck hotshotted many illegal loads becase of length or weight. I really wish I had some temperature data but it is the one thing I have tapped. When the drive shaft was recently rebuilt, the driveline shop put a scope to the diff w/ engine running and in gear. Rear diff was very quiet. BTW, replace the still factory original u-joints in the shaft. Their was very minor wear and all could have stayed in with over 200K on and with no new grease.



This is in a 96 5sp with LSD.



While I think there is a place for 140W fluid in our trucks (I see a few car haulers etc that really should have a bigger truck) it is a rare few that really need it.



I have heard occasional complaints of Dodge drivetrains on this site. Other then the 5th gear (5sp) I could not ask for a more trouble free setup. Truck ate allot of tire rubber in those 200K but the drivetrain has been trouble free.



jjw

ND

 

[WCrovo]

My diffs got syn at the 1. 000 mile mark. The transmission will stay OE fluid for now and the engine gets Dello 400. Can't afford the big dollar engine oils and the oil sample comes back perfect. I sevice my rear diff every 15,000 and it is slightly more discolored than the front. I will probably never due the front diff again. I have been torn about the weights. I have always used Redline 75/90 and get up to almost 20. 000 GCVW. My gears look perfect at every service so I stick with it, the cold weather is a factor as well.

 

[HC]

Re: 75w90 Does Just Fine!

Just wanted to add that 75W90 has been very good in my case...

Last sample with 38K on the oil had a Iron reading of 98ppm. The lab flags the sample once it gets to 1000ppm...

Truck hotshotted many illegal loads becase of length or weight

jww,

Thanks for that info. I feel much better now about switching to the lighter stuff. Didn't someone post awhile back that he got HIGHER wear with the thicker oil; probably due to colder climate / flow issues? That was what put me over the edge into going with the 75W-90 synthetic.

 

[HC]

... mine does not leak anywhere with 118,000...

Gene,

How many miles when you switched from factory to synthetic?

Second question: Is there a generally accepted rule of thumb for when someone should NOT switch to synthetic? I've heard "don't do it with older engines". But does that mean 100k? Or what?

 

[Sled Puller]

barber? I'm almost totaly bald Don? LOL!



HC,

I switched at 26,000, flushed the engine.



You have to start waying the price of the oil against what life is left in the vehicle.



I lady with a 1985 Chevy van called with 185,000 miles, never did a thing to it, wanted to switch, I told her no, whatever she was doing it was right, keep it up.



I guy with 165,000 on a smallblock Ford bought off the internet, switched his truck over, never flushed, and it is running fine. Not using oil or leaking. Go figure.

In those situations, you can bet if ANYTHING changes, they would blame the oil, even though the odds were getting very bad for them. I like to sell to people with less than 100,000 on Diesels, 75,000 on gassers. Preferably, the first oil change.



I wouldn't hesitate to do any mechanically sound NON leaking engine if it is a keeper.



Gene

 

[Briar Hopper]

And all this time, I've thought that blown seals had something to do with penguins!

It's certainly not from the oil... . I'd hate to be on a motorcycle following Don M !