Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Tabbed my KDP today......

[CCiatteo]

You guys were right..... it took me about 4-1/2 hours and sure enough the pin had started to work its way out. Wasn't real bad, maybe 1/8 of an inch out past the gear case. I followed TST's instruction sheet, but thought that a few extra steps could really ease the task. Here's my observation for those that might be doing this in the future.



* Drain the radiator down far enough to remove the upper rad hose. Access to everything is easier and getting the shroud and fan out is much easier.



* Getting to the 4th bolt that holds mounting bracket for the pulley/fan/clutch is a PITA and started to round off trying to break it loose with an open end wrench. TST would have you grind the box end down to it can fit in between the pulley and the bolt head. I simply loosed the 5 or 6 10mm bolts holding the pulley to the bracket which gave me the room I need to get my box wrench in without having to grind my tools down. I reveresed the procedure for install which also allowed me to get it good and tight going back together.



* Don't freak out when you get the balancer off and there's no woodruff key. I was freaking because nowhere in the destructions is there any mention of timing or marking anything and then I get the balancer off and I'm like uh oh??? I hope this thing is neutral balance cause I have no idea what the orientation was coming off. (I was thinking SB chevy and such, silly me.



* The two gear case bolts behind the cam gear may not be as accessible as the instruction would have you believe. I found them, but could not get them out. The window in the cam gear wasn't big enough and did not give me a straight on shot, thus working at an angle caused binding as the bolt was backed out, so I just made sure they were good and tight. I didn't want to risk dropping a bolt into the gear case or something stupid.



Other than that... . easy. Does this qualify me to say I'm a diesel mechanic? (I wouldn't dare, that would be an insult to all those that are. )



Thanks to the board though. I am sure this saved my motor, maybe not now, but certainly at some point in the future.



Chris

 

[Missouri Mule]

Congratulations you have made the kdp killer club and now you don't have to worry about the kdp killing the engine.

 

[SCass]

I have a 1999 CTD with 55000 miles on it. I purchased a TST kit but have been procrastinating about doing the job. If the engine were on a bench I would have no concerns about it. But trying to get in to it while lying underneath causes me concerns.

I do smaller jobs myself. In the past I have changed water pumps a couple of times on my '77 Ford F150, replaced radiators, rebuilt carbs, replaces alternators, done tuneups, replace brakes, honed cylinders, etc. That was 25 some odd years ago though. This job seems to be really working in a confined area!

I talked with the shop I've dealt with for 20+ years and they didn't have anyone who wanted to do it since none are diesel mechanics. This caused me to think that maybe I shouldn't try this one. I have been having trouble locating a shop locally that works on diesels.

I realize that it is a very subjective question; but, how difficult is it to do this procedure?

Regards,

Steve Cass
Tucson

 

[surfbeetle]

It's not that difficult, but to add to Chris's instructions, I actually pulled the radiator when doing the TST kit. I did this so I could also clean the fins on the radiator with degreaser easier. It also made accessing everything much easier. When draining the Rad, I collected it into a couple of new clean oil drain pans that had a pour nozzle on it and reused the coolant as I had it flushed a few months prior to doing the KDP.

 

[WilsonF]

It is not a job that is complicated its just some hard work, small area to work in. After doing mine I read a post about how to cut the radiator shroud to make it easier to take out and put back in. Read as much about it as you can here and other diesel sites. DTR for one. Be prepared for the fan removal Big nut is left hand thread. And takes special tools to take off, you can do it w/o them but easier with. If you can get some help do so but it can be done by yourself. Get the TST tab kit, good instructions and Loc tight all of the case bolts,but you can get all this info from doing a search.
Floyd

 

[CCiatteo]

I have a 1999 CTD with 55000 miles on it. I purchased a TST kit but have been procrastinating about doing the job. If the engine were on a bench I would have no concerns about it. But trying to get in to it while lying underneath causes me concerns.



I do smaller jobs myself. In the past I have changed water pumps a couple of times on my '77 Ford F150, replaced radiators, rebuilt carbs, replaces alternators, done tuneups, replace brakes, honed cylinders, etc. That was 25 some odd years ago though. This job seems to be really working in a confined area!



I talked with the shop I've dealt with for 20+ years and they didn't have anyone who wanted to do it since none are diesel mechanics. This caused me to think that maybe I shouldn't try this one. I have been having trouble locating a shop locally that works on diesels.



I realize that it is a very subjective question; but, how difficult is it to do this procedure?



Regards,



Steve Cass

Tucson

It's not that difficult, but to add to Chris's instructions, I actually pulled the radiator when doing the TST kit. I did this so I could also clean the fins on the radiator with degreaser easier. It also made accessing everything much easier. When draining the Rad, I collected it into a couple of new clean oil drain pans that had a pour nozzle on it and reused the coolant as I had it flushed a few months prior to doing the KDP.

The job is really not bad at all. I had considered taking the radiator out myself, which is why I started draining it in the first place. Then once I had it all apart I felt comfortable enough to move ahead with it in place. If you have the tools and the time, its an easy job. I worked almost entirely from the top of the truck, except for draining the rad, and disconnecting the washer bottle line/washer pump connections. After thinking some more, I would do a real good engine degrease (I think TST recommends this) before starting. I changed my accessory belt while I was there too. There is more space than there looks once everything is out of the way. Taking the radiator would yield more space, but I don't think its necessary.



It's not really a diesel related job. I mean you are working on a diesel motor, but you aren't timing the pump or breaking into the fuel system.



Just take your time, work smart and you should be good. The scariest part for me was when I took the balancer off, I though ohh *****, its not keyed? how will I know where it goes? there's no timing marks?, but all of that doesn't matter. It just bolts on and is neutral or zero balanced. I took the truck out last night and it sounds the same, drives the same, except now I know it won't go kaboom over a stupid little pin.



I took some pics, if you are interested let me know and I can post them or email them to anyone interested.



Chris

 

[CCiatteo]

It is not a job that is complicated its just some hard work, small area to work in. After doing mine I read a post about how to cut the radiator shroud to make it easier to take out and put back in. Read as much about it as you can here and other diesel sites. DTR for one. Be prepared for the fan removal Big nut is left hand thread. And takes special tools to take off, you can do it w/o them but easier with. If you can get some help do so but it can be done by yourself. Get the TST tab kit, good instructions and Loc tight all of the case bolts,but you can get all this info from doing a search.

Floyd

I was surprised TST doesn't recommend taking the fan/clutch assemby off the bracket/bearing first, then taking the bracket/bearing off the motor. Maybe so you don't need to buy additional tools? If you took the fan/clutch off, I think you would have to do so before taking the accy belt off, to help keep things from turning? If I did another one that's the route I would try. I've done a fan clutch on my buddy's truck, so I already have the big wrench.

 

[CCiatteo]

I have a 1999 CTD with 55000 miles on it. I purchased a TST kit but have been procrastinating about doing the job. If the engine were on a bench I would have no concerns about it. But trying to get in to it while lying underneath causes me concerns... ... .



Steve Cass

Tucson

If you have a 99, then I would pull the radiator like Surfbettle recommends, so you can clean the front of the radiator as it is likely caked with oil crud from the blow down tube/bottle on from of the motor... ... all the more reason to do it yourself and know it will be done right.



Here's a link to what the front of your radiator might look like:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ssion-1994-1998/199128-radiator-question.html



This was my buddy's 2001 with only 69k on the clock.



Chris

 

[Missouri Mule]

Joe G. and TST have good instructions (TST provides photos). As said most work is done on your feet. Putting the seal back on is the most technical.

 

[Breed]

Kdp

I did the KDP with TST's kit also did the new vacuum pump seal kit from Pete Gould @ DODGE DIESEL VACUUM PUMP REPAIRING /TRANSMISSIONS REPAIR, and both worked great for my 98 Quad Cab. I feel much better knowing that the damn little pin won't wreck my motor and the Oil leak from the seal is fixed. It took me about 6 hours to do both but, I am a shade tree mechanic although both directions were easy for a novice to follow. I bought the truck in 98' brand new and its just been a great truck.

 

[GPVargo]

I want to fix my KDP, where can I get the TST kit?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I want to fix my KDP, where can I get the TST kit?

I think my buddy bought his from TST

 

[WilsonF]

I want to fix my KDP, where can I get the TST kit?

Go to the TST web site:



TST Products, Inc.

Floyd

 

[SCass]

Done It!

I got the dowel pin tabbed yesterday. I did wimp out and have a shop do the work though. They had real trouble getting the fan off the clutch (it took two of them). That added quite a bit of time to the job for them. They charged me $172 which I thought was quite reasonable these days.



The truck has 55500 miles on it and the dowel pin was solidly in place. I was actually hoping to see it backed out a bit to justify the work! But, as has been reported, this is not a mileage issue and it certainly could have happened in the future. Now, I have the peace of mind that it won't be a problem!



The shop I used is a long time established shop specializing in 4X4s among other things. They had never heard of this problem before. I do find it interesting that Dodge has not put out a TSB on this potential problem (at least I couldn't find one). With repair kits being made and reports of failures there is definitely something to this.



Steve Cass

Tucson

 

[surfbeetle]

They had real trouble getting the fan off the clutch (it took two of them). That added quite a bit of time to the job for them.

They shouldn't have needed to pull the fan off of the clutch. There are some bolts that hold the fan assembly to the block and are very easy to remove. Then the fan, fan clutch and bracket all come off in one piece. Hopefully they didn't charge you more because it took them longer.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I always pull the fan off of the clutch... makes life much easier!



two pair of vise-grips and 3 min of time... clamp down on the pulley real hard and let it "wedge" and use the other to back the fan off.



or an air hammer/chisel against the flat of the nut

 

[SCass]

Hopefully they didn't charge you more because it took them longer.

no, they didn't charge me anything extra. They had a book rate for R/Ring the Timing cover. since the only additional work involved for this is to remove one bolt and installing the longer bolt and tab from the TST kit that's what they charged me. They did have the TST instruction sheet that I gave them and I dont think that it stated to remove the fan seperately.



cessna

 

[Missouri Mule]

I removed my fan this allowed me to take out the fan and fan cowl together then I started on the radiator.

I used my mechanic's chain wrench on the pulley to loosen the fan bolt( I seperated the fan cowl first then hung it behind the fan/pulley).

 

[scotmartin]

Does anyone use the KDP jig anymore? I used it a long time ago. It seemed to work fine. And of course it was much faster and easier than tabbing.

 

[WilsonF]

I was going to use it but then I read about the bolts holding the case on loosening. I wanted to check them too so I used the TST kit.
Floyd