Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Tabbing KDP. Use gasket or Permatex silicon sealant?

[PWeber]

Do you guys recomend using the gasket or permatex? Also, with 165k I assume I should replace the front seal? Anyone have that part #?

 

[Joe G.]

PWeber,



Give me you e-mail address. The instructions I have include all the part numbers.

 

[Midnite]

Unless there's a specific need to keep this info private, it should really be posted normally. That way it gets into the archives and will be available to people via searches.



IMHO way too much great information gets passed on to people here via email or PMs unnecessarily when it could just as easily be posted publicly and help a much larger audience.



Just my $0. 02...



Mike

 

[RPosey]

fan removal

I didn't have a strap wrench to hold the fan pulley ,so this is how I removed the fan. I put a 12 inch adjustable on the big nut and then I used a air chisel with a mushroom punch to hammer on the end of the adjustable wrench. About 4 or five tries and off it came. I just screwed it off then. I did the tab fix with the fan shroud in place. None of the hoses were taken off. I didn't have any trouble working in that space. I spent about 8 hours and 2 of those were spent getting the seal in. I finally filed a small radius on the seal cover . I also wasn't sure which way the seal installation sleeve went on. You should point it with the big end toward the crankshaft. After installation pull it off the end of the crankshaft. It will pull through the new seal.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

I used the gasket and stuck it in place with "High Tack". I dont think its really a silicone sealer, but it holds the gasket inplace nicely while wrestling with getting the cover over the crank properly



Chris

 

[PWeber]

gasket

so does everyone recomend using the gasket over just straight permatex?

 

[Joe G.]

The Cummins gasket is thicker than a lot of gaskets. I dunno if that is important or not. It's also high quality. When I got mine off it looked like if I cleaned it up and used a little gasket sealer I could have used it over. I had bought a new one so I used it. The original is hanging on my shop wall just in case I need it one of these days. I installed the new gasket on clean surfaces. Naturally, I had a very slight leak so I had to remove the cover again. I had a little red permatex high temp gasket stuff so I used that to seal it. No other reason to use high temp than I had some already. No more leaks in a bunch of miles. Not sure, but I think I blocked the KDP over 100K miles ago.

 

[Matt42]

When I tabbed the KDP on mine, I asked about gasket sealant at the Cummins parts SW counter. The parts man asked the engine man, who recommended the gray Cummins brand silicone "goo. " (That's exactly what he called it. ) It cost more than the bubble pack Permatex, about twice as much. I used it, and there has not been a single oil drip.



You will do well to wipe down all mating surfaces liberally with denatured alcohol, as a fnal cleaning, before applying silicone seal. Silicone seal will not adhere to oil. Lacquer and regular paint thinner are basically very light weight oil. The alcohol really works.

 

[MikeH]

Seal P/N

PWeber,



I have one laying right here on the desk. Seal kit is Mopar P/N 05012290AA. Dealer charged me $37. 25 for it.

The gasket is P/N 4638719 and was $29. 26.



Hope this helps.



MikeH

 

[PWeber]

Cummins part #'s and prices

FYI, someone sent these to me.





CUMMINS PART NUMBERS

CM 3918673 $19. 57 Timing Cover Gasket

CM 3804899 $26. 89 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal

CM 3900257 $1. 60 Dowel Pin

CU 3823494 $10. 22 Silver Three Bond RTV Silicone Adhesive/Sealant (3oz)

 

[redram]

Originally posted by Matt Shumaker



You will do well to wipe down all mating surfaces liberally with denatured alcohol, as a fnal cleaning, before applying silicone seal. Silicone seal will not adhere to oil. Lacquer and regular paint thinner are basically very light weight oil. The alcohol really works.

Lacquer thinner being a "light weight oil" I think not!

Lacquer thinner usually contains a mixture of petroleum distillates, methanol, toluene, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethyl acetate and xylene. None of these resemble a "light oil" although all are derivatives of crude oil.

 

[illflem]

Bottom line is does lacquer thinner leave a deposit? I don't know, never used it, perfer acetone or alcohol for really getting things goo stick clean.



I've read this before and I'm not sure I believe it-- using alcohol or acetone to clean bearings will dry them out and ruin them. Solvent or diesel is preferred. I'm talking about non-sealed bearings. It seems to me packing with grease would solve the drying problem, is there something here I'm missing? Some special coating perhaps?

 

[PWeber]

What about carb cleaner?

 

[A Johnson]

Use the alcohol, unless you have an electrical contact type cleaner. I believe carb cleaner uses some sort of lubricity type stuff, ditto for starting fluid. ( starting fluid works good for cleaning the old silicone off ) . Cummins at one time, came out with a warning against using starting fluid for cleaning gasket surfaces.



I really prefer the Cummins Three Bond over all the other parts store silicones. It almost acts like it also has a glue in it, but still cleans up easy.



I coat the entire gasket, both sides with the Three Bond and have no problems.



A Johnson

 

[PWeber]

I ordered those parts from the Cummins/ IH dealer yesterday. They had all but the actual pin. The good thing about this joint is they are open until 12 midnight at the parts counter! I plan on tackling it NY Day. Heading out snowmobiling today through Sunday in WY today at noon.