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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Take a guess

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 53 block location

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This is what it looked like 2 weeks ago. Now it's got a brand new short block in it. Thank god for extended warranties. The rest of the truck has only got 60000 miles on her and it's going up for sale next week. The vp44 went out last year also under warranty. Only reason I am selling is to get a dually.

P. S. whoever it was saying not to worry about them 53 blocks cracking, I listened to you once, never will I listen again :-laf .

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Look at the front left hand ( drivers side ) bottom corner of the block. If you see a 53 cast in the side then look out.

Good luck.
 
You can also look on the engine identification plate. It is on the timing gear cover (front right side) in line with the injection pump. It is a little black plate; it contains engine serial number, horse power rating, compression, valve lash, ect... .
 
Been there and done that! Mine is still holding from my Locknstitch repair. Did not want to come up with the $$$ to do the block exchange.



Brian
 
rkressg said:
You can also look on the engine identification plate. It is on the timing gear cover (front right side) in line with the injection pump. It is a little black plate; it contains engine serial number, horse power rating, compression, valve lash, ect... .



This has been hashed over many times and the engine serial number and block casting number basically have nothing to do with each other and there is no way to tell if you have a 53 block without climbing underneath the truck and looking for the casting number.
 
SMadden said:
Cracked block



:eek: :{



Where about on the block was this crack? location?



Wondering if I should ask for a psi test on my 53 block while the machine shop has it, or magnaflux it?



Do the 53's all crack in same general location or anywhere?
 
My crack was almost identical to the one posted. They all crack in the same place. Some crack worse then others. Mine was a three inch crack. I do not think there is any known reason for it. It has happen to stock trucks as well as highly bombed trucks. My theory is towing heavy probably contributed. But who really knows. I read an archive that had the problem on a truck with less then 20k. The wall on the water jacket is just to thin. It is a shame that these hit the market. Should have been recalled long ago. There is some hope though with locknstitch.



Brian
 
Has anybody ever tried to do a pole on why some 53's crack and others do not? Block heater usage maybe? Not allowing the motor to warm up slowly befor pushing it? I just have to wonder since this is my 2nd one with 200k and both were used for heavy towing.

Hadley
 
There was a post some time back that claimed these blocks were a serious problem in school busses. Apparently the constant start-stop cycles caused them to give way pretty frequently. I've got one with 130,000 that is used daily for heavy towing. I've also got a spare block in the shop. Because I have a spare, I'll probably never have a problem! If I sell the spare, I'm doomed!! See ya, Greg
 
I can tell you that my truck has been pampered. I tow a enclosed trailer that might weigh 5500 pounds loaded about twice a month. Other than that I just drive back and forth to work. My truck has 4:10 gears so it does not get put under a load. When it is below 40 I will plug in the block heater. When running for the first time after it's been parked over about 4 hours, I always let the truck idle ( in neutral, better on the auto trans ) atleast 2 or 3 minutes. Maybe I should have drove it like it was meant to be drove and it would not have cracked :-laf . I just wish someone would take the resposibility for it. I got real lucky that I bought an extended warranty. I think my total bill would have been around $8000 if not for that. Good luck to all that owns a 53. Hope it don't happen to you.

Cya, Scott
 
The 53's crack because a radius in the casting was overlooked by the guys at the foundry pouring the blocks. Instead of a rounded corner(strong), a sharp, square corner was cast. This sharp corner is prone to cracking due to fatigue. i. e. heating and cooling of the block. Eventually the tornado hits the mobile home and the block cracks. This is why they all crack in the same location... right on the blueprint where a radiused corner was drawn, but never made it to the mold. Hope this helps. ZMAN
 
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