Tapper cover gasket

[Greenleaf]

Everything I have seen is 18 ftlbs. I think EVERYTHING that holds these engines together is 18 ft lbs.



I'd have to look to be sure.

 

[btoscano]

I got it all to 18 ft-lbs. Good thing I have a 1/4" drive torque wrench. The 3/8" drive is hard to work in those tight areas.



I started to put the IP in place last night. The pump was easy to turn over to the correct location and the impact took the nut off without turning the shaft. I got the pump halfway on but the key was crooked and got caught on the gear. I took it off and will try again.



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

The pump manual tells us to install the nut and use a wrench to turn the shaft. However, it also mentiones that the shaft is locked down at your desired timing (mm plunger travel) and then the nut is removed. I have never set a pump to mm of travel and locked the shaft in place. I'd have to assume that if the nut is tight it will do two things upon removal. 1; damage the shaft and 2; disrupt the pump setting

 

[btoscano]

This afternoon I got back to working on the truck. I rotated the engine with the barring tool to get the pump gear to line up better with the pump keyway. After a few attempts it just slipped into place. To check the timing, I barred the engine over until the keyway was at 5:30 which normally is TDC. I set the TDC pin and sure enough it engaged, so it appears that the pump gear did not move on me.



Tomrrow I'll have some more time to put more of the engine back together.



-brian

 

[btoscano]

GL,



I did have a question for you regarding the barring tool.



On the Dodge, I have been using the genuine Cummin part, a universal, and then a 3 foot + 1 foot extension and a 3/8" ratchet. This puts the rachet about a foot outside the engine bay in front of the radiator so its very easy to watch the pump gear and turn the ratchet at the same time. Is this the approach you use, or have you found a better way?



-brian

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Uh, guys... . you need to excuse Scott..... he ain't been right since Bill let him work on his truck and it turned out good... .



Lordy I luv my job.....



pb... .

 

[Greenleaf]

Barring Tool?

I don't use one. There are other methods to rotate the engine. I should retract that. There are several. Some of which I have patented.



PB, Thanks for the kind comments. That's the nicest thing anyone has told me in some great time.



S

 

[btoscano]

Hey all,



I got the engine fired up this afternoon. Bleeding the system of air was not really a big deal. I do have 2 questions about brackets... .



1. The one that is under the vacuum pump... there is a 15 mm flanged nut and then a 10 mm cap screw... if I use the cap screw it looks like it presses against the block with 6-7 threads showing between the bracket and the block Is this correct? Or is there a shim or something else that I am missing?



2. there are 3 injector brackets that mount to only the injector lines, not something attached to the head. One is a 2-line that goes between injectors 1-2. Second goes on injector line 1-2-3 after the 90 degree bend by the head. Where does the third bracket go? Somewhere on injector lines 4-5-6 I presume? Behind the throttle linkage?



Thanks,

Brian

 

[Greenleaf]

First the bracket under the vaccum pump... ... . the brace is attatched to the block up above. The hole your looking at in the bracket is just that. The bolt threads into the bracket at that location, and not into the block. If I recall correctly. It's the bottom

most hole in that brace, right?



The other thing... ... ... ... I'd have to find a picture of the lines. However in all cases, unless you painted the lines, look where there is no paint. Yes, there is a brace like that which is located just above (and perhaps a bit behind) the throttle bracket. It doesn't attatch to the head. Just to the lines right?

 

[btoscano]

GL,



Yes, but what I am saying is that the bolt is long enough to push against the block and bend the bracket out slightly??? Is this correct? IT seems that a bolt half the length would be a better fit, but I don't recall mixing up any bolts. . certainly not THAT much in length.



#2, the bracket I have does not attach to the head, just the lines. I will bolt it there, but I do see some paint, is not obvious like the other one for lines 1-3 near that 90 bend above the head. Are there supposed to be any brackets between the cyl head covers???



I am hopeful to get answers. I looked my buddy's (my old) '90 but the lines and vac pump setup are totally different!



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

Yes. Total differently they be...





No bracese between the valve covers. There is a brace just as you dscribe just above the injection pump and then another towards the rear of the pump. I don't understand why you can't look at the lines to i. d. where they are originally places, The engine is assembled, then painted.



You annswered your oqn question with the bolt that is too long. It should harly pass through that bracket.

 

[btoscano]

OMG~~~I had a massive fuel leak and then stall. Turns out the 12 mm nut where the dial indicator goes vibrated free. After I took off the throttle linkage to get that straightened out, I figured out where the remaining bracket goes... . hidden behind the bracket. I also swapped out the bolt in the oil dipstick tube which was shorter and it fits real nice on the vac pump. I think this error was from a previous repair job that I corrected just now. Now my only problem is a leaky fuel supply line to the pump. I am not sure what it is going to take to get that dry. Otherwise, runs great!



Brian

 

[btoscano]

Woohoo!! I took the truck on a test drive down the interstate and it hit 100 MPH (downhill ) There is a noticable improvement in performance across the board. The turbo lag is not really all that bad. Turning up the fuel screw the max within factory allowed limits sure did help. Now all I need to do is fix the two pesky fuel leaks... one at the supply line to the pump and one at #5... I have had problems for a long time with the fuel supply line to the pump. Anybody know if this is a common problem? I am wondering if replacing the line is the easiest fix? I loose a drop every 3 seconds.



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

If the leak is at the inlet adapter you'll ned to pull it out of the pump (after some serious cleaning of that area) and replace the aluminum (seal) washer. Snug that fitt'n down and install the line back into the adapter (fitting) you just reinstalled.



You DO keep on hand a VE injection pump gasket kit right? They come in handy, I'm tell'n yah... ... ... ... .

 

[btoscano]

The leak is out of the 14 mm line wrench fitting. The threads on that fitting are visibly marred, probably from the previous owner's shop. Daniel Puckett helped me R/R the pump the first time and it had leaking problems back then too. I was able to fix the leak last time, but it appears that I was on borrowed time as this time it just leaks now.



Brian

 

[btoscano]

I am still getting some seepage from that tappet cover! At the very rear bottom of the gasket. But I think its the foam insulating pad!!?? If I recall correctly, it leaked as soon as I installed it, before I ever started the engine!!! I wonder if some fuel got in it and its just oozing. I don't think its oil, I think its diesel fuel because it appears light. Anybody see anything like this before?



-brian