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Tappet cover, "The Right Stuff"?

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Due to a injection pump issue described in another thread that's responsible for the P7100 being removed, I'm going to tackle the leaking tappet cover. 1st time for this little adventure.

Anyone with first hand experience on using The Right Stuff on the tappet cover? If so did you use only The
Right Stuff or use along with a new Cummins gasket? I've never tried TRS gasket maker but the reviews are generally pretty positive.

Thanks in advance for helping.

RonR
 
Thanks all. Ordered the FelPro gasket with washer seals along with the 5 oz. Right Stuff black gasket maker. Plan is insure tappet cover is straight, make so if not then assemble with a thin film of Right Stuff and new gasket.

In the "while I'm in there" mode ordered a Cummins lift pump from Genos'. My original pump for the past couple years (at 300k) or so struggled to prime when changing the fuel filter. Fact I'd started disconnecting the intake heaters and hitting the turbo with a small snort of ether. Not much, not spraying for mosquitoes just a small short spray while the wife cranked it over. If anyone (out of desperation) tries this method and you get a hard start/knock you used way too much spray and extreme damage can result (you've been warned).

RonR
 
Sorry, Ron. I linked the wrong thread. This was the one with all the posts about the tappet cover gasket replacement:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/oil-leak.269942/

Now, you repair it however you like with whatever products you want. My experience is that the key is gluing the gasket to the cover with the yellow 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and letting it cure overnight. I don’t know of any that were replaced like that that have leaked again.
 
No problem Scott. The linked article is a good one for sure. My standard procedure for many years on valve covers (not Cummins), oil pans etc. is clean both the cover and engine/transmission well, straighten the cover if needed then coat the cover with Copper Coat https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...r-coat-4-ounce-gasket-compound/401504/4405459, let it tack up, then the gasket, let cure. With a handy finger smear a light coat of Vaseline on the engine/head or whatever then a bead of whatever gasket in a tube I've got on the cover. Assemble and let cure if time allows.

The above has never failed in many decades of use. With the Vaseline acting as a release agent disassembly is a snap. Now it should be mentioned the procedure was developed when gaskets were usually cork and paper. However I generally haven't seen a need to get to far away from the above procedure.

My thinking is I'll deviate this time and skip the Vaseline and use TRS gasket maker on the tappet cover and block since I hopefully won't ever relick this calf.

Thanks,

RonR
 
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Cover is off. Block is pretty much cleaned, a bit more work to do there. Since I've ordered a new lift pump from Geno's I pulled the pump and fuel heater assembly. Had to remove the P7100 flex oil line from the block to remove the tappet cover. Also with a clean rag that I sprayed with carb cleaner, I wiped the oil holes in the block and sealed with duct tape just in case.

On the Felpro gasket, don't see any reason it won't be fine. It does come with new washers and fitted gaskets for the 6 tappet cover bolts. The Cummins gasket doesn't.

The insulating (for sound I suspect) pad that sits on the outside of the tappet cover is in good shape after cleaning. I plan to paint and reinstall it. I used to love the clatter from a 12 valve, these days quite is better. Would love to find one of the sound damping blankets that came out in the early 2000's.

One final note. I've read about folks being confused on how to install the new gasket and doing it wrong. Massive oil leaks being the result. Now if you spring for a Cummins gasket, it's stamped with front and engine side notations. Other gaskets may not be and that includes my Felpro. The first image below shows the tab on the stock gasket that goes to the front and outside of the tappet cover. The Felpro gasket has the same tab, but no instructions or stampings showing proper orientation.

Wish me luck,

View attachment 126231

RonR
InkedTapper Cover 1_LI.jpg


Tappet Cover 3.jpg


InkedTappet Cover 4_LI.jpg


Tapper Cover 2.jpg
 
Oh, and one tidbit that may help others with a gasket leak. When I got to the point of removing the 6 tappet cover bolts, 3 were only FINGER TIGHT. I actually pulled the extension off the ratchet and spun the extension with my fingers, no need to break loose first. The other three were dirty and I had to use a short speed ratchet.

Point being, it wouldn't hurt to snug up the bolts that you can reach it might help/stop a leaking gasket. My original 25 year old gasket was still in pretty good shape, no cracks on the sealing surface. If I could have accessed all the bolts, I'm betting a bit of tighting would have stopped all my leakage.

RonR
 
You know, I like that. Should deal with vibration loosening and no need to over torque in an attempt to keep em tight. Also no deforming the cover by over tightening.
 
There was a drawing in the last thread I posted showing the orientation of the gasket. The Felpro should be a twin to the Cummins gasket as far as the tab goes.

The bolts could be loose from the gasket hardening or the cover deforming over time. Was your gasket hard?

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Looks like your doing it all right. When I did mine last year, since I had the pump off, I bumped my timing up. The PDD degree wheel made it easy. I also did my timing case seals (both sides) while in there.

Of course, I also swapped my cam and lifters too. What a PITA that was. Lol!

If you run into trouble with a bent cover, let me know. I replaced mine, but didn't need to.
 
Scott said; "The bolts could be loose from the gasket hardening or the cover deforming over time. Was your gasket hard?"

Yes Sir, it was. Almost got it off the cover without breaking it though, a piece about 2" long had to be sacrificed to separate/remove it.

Small world, oldest son works in SE Nashville, lives in Murfreesboro. I do like that part of the world.

RonR
 
I work on the SE side, too. Live in Springfield, about 20 miles north of Nashville. Where does he work?
 
He's involved with IT, works in a multi story black glass building not far from the airport. Although for the past few months he's been working from home.
 
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