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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) TC lock/unlock

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front end wobble

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Just finished the BD fix on the 99'. Drove fine about 100 miles or so then popped a CEL P0121. I cleared it out and will just wait and see i guess. Has anybody else had that code associated with the apps noise filter fix?
 
EForbes, Imler Diesel in Sacramento sells the BD thingy. It costs $9. oo plus shipping. I bought one this week. So far so good will keep you advised. Very easy to install. comes with picture instructions even I can follow.

Imler diesel 916-920-3775
 
Could someone elaborate on the Navrone Filter method just for added precaution for myself please. Thanks in advance



After trying everything mentioned on this board and elsewhere I finally hit the wall. I left no stone unturned to my knowledge. As mentioned in the my first post in this thread I tried the DTT noise filter (not the BD), the Suncoast wire re-route, cleaned the grounds & battery terminals, added an additional ground, aluminum foil, etc. These attempts yielded results for only short periods before the problem came back. Totally frustrated I tried the Navone N-25 in-line noise filter. It works and is still working after an extended period. The problem appears to be solved. Read the post by RHoch on May 24 for details, photos, and instructions. The Navone filter is NOT WATERPROOF & I wanted a permanent, waterproof solution. I wired it as instructed, soldered the connections, and installed the N-25 inside a waterproof electrical box I found at the hardware store. I located the box as shown in the photos. Don't ask me how it works. I have no idea. It just does. Installation ran about an hour and is an EZ fix. The N-25 was $19. 59 to my door and the hardware ran about $12. 95.
 
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I tried the BD fix on my 2002. Its been about 3 weeks now and its still working. I towed my trailer last week and i tried to get it to mess up and it wouldn't do it. I am a happy camper. Thanks Pat @ BD for the info.
 
Wait and see

I have done all the fixes that have been suggested over the years short of the DTT wiring modification. Grounds, SunCoast rewire, aluminum foil, alternator and they all have lasted for a year or so and now the problem back. I just installed the Navone filter yesterday and so far I haven't felt it lock/unlocking. I towed my trailer last week and it was terrible. Had to just hit the throttle to get it to stay locked.



I sealed the tube supplied with silicone including where the wires pass through the ends. I also tucked it up under the hood seal in a vertical position and wire tied to the PCU harness. Not sure if it will be ok and impervious to the weather but the weatherproof enclosure won't work in my truck because of the air filter arrangement. (Liked the idea though).



Hopefully that will take care of the lock/unlock problem and I will post at a later date if anything changes. To bad so many are plagued with this problem.
 
Kicking this subject back to the top: If the alternator is often the source of the noise that causes lockup signal issues then why not add a bypass capacitor to the alternator output wire and effectively quell the noise at its source? I would think this would be more effective than essentially choking it with an LC circuit (coil and capacitor).

A bypass capacitor is put between the hot (alternator output) and ground, and what it basically does is shunt spikes and noise to ground. And the natural charge on the cap helps "fill" voltage gaps between spikes (read here) The Basics - Bypass Capacitors

I just bought a '01. 5 auto with 90k miles and it has the light throttle TC lock/unlock issue. I may grab the oscilloscope at work and see if I can determine the approximate frequency of the noise then see about sizing a capacitor to use as a bypass cap. Will let you know what I find. . .
 
Keep us posted as to what you find out. I haven't had any issues for quite some time now but just the other day, it acted up once. Guess it is time for me to clean my grounds again. Be interested in your solution. :mad:
 
Just a heads up I had this happen when I had my 98. 5 and it WILL eventually snap the input shaft on your transmission, that was a $3k lesson learned the hard way.
 
The BD filter works great but they raised the price to 24 bucks. I ordered one for a friend of mine a couple of months ago and that is what they charged me. Pat, at BD, did I get charged the wrong price? It was only 9 bucks when I got mine a couple of years ago. If I was charged the wrong price, I want a refund. . HA! However, it does correct the problem by filtering the spikes and noise from the alternator, to ground. Mine has been in for two years now and have had no problems. BC
 
i would buy the BD filter but i know that thing only cost a few cent or maybe a dollar to buy then you heat shrink 2 wires on it. thats why i wont buy it. . its a low voltage noise filter that i do not know the size of. i bet if i knew what was in there i could get it at radio shack for 3 or 4 dollars. . I tell ya i bought a turbo from yall and and going to upgrade to the twins but seeing a $24 price tag on something like that bothers me a little... .
 
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Installed BD's filter and checked all grounds... problem still remains. I also have installed a new TPS from blue chip as well. Leaning towards a bad PCM. Anyone on here know where to get a cheap one? Dont care if its used, I dont have the $$$ to buy a new one from Cummins. Any other ideas before I do have to buy a PCM? Thanks. Also my truck will NOT stay in overdrive. It will downshift back to third and stay for a while then back to OD and then right back to third. Sometimes it will stay in OD for a second but not for long. It has the classic lock/unlock problem in all gears as well. Driving me crazy!!! Im about ready to sell it and I dont want a truck payment... but I need a truck I can drive.
 
Installed BD's filter and checked all grounds... problem still remains. I also have installed a new TPS from blue chip as well. Leaning towards a bad PCM. Anyone on here know where to get a cheap one? Dont care if its used, I dont have the $$$ to buy a new one from Cummins. Any other ideas before I do have to buy a PCM? Thanks. Also my truck will NOT stay in overdrive. It will downshift back to third and stay for a while then back to OD and then right back to third. Sometimes it will stay in OD for a second but not for long. It has the classic lock/unlock problem in all gears as well. Driving me crazy!!! Im about ready to sell it and I dont want a truck payment... but I need a truck I can drive.



You have to get the right PCM that matches the one you have. I think it is the last 5 digits have to match.



SNOKING
 
Make sure any grounds, like the rewiring scheme from ATS or suncoast, go to a chassis ground, not battery negative. Make sure all splices have been soldered and not crimped or other. Do a TPS reset every time there is a loss of batt power.
I know it's frustrating. I've finally got mine to behave but it took alot. I changed out to a hi output gen from PA also. It's been about a year and a half for me and no unlock... knock on wood. And I tow all the time. Can't deal with unlock when you tow.
 
I use my 99' for commuting and while on my way home from LAX today I got several lock/unlock episodes. I was cruising about 60-MPH on the southbound 405 and the OAT was about 104-F. Of course I had the A/c on max but certainly not horsing the truck. I have a new (2-yr) alternator, noise filter, Suncoast rewire and battery terminals are perfect, but still out of nowhere it happened. I backed off to about 50-MPH and tapped the brake pedal a couple times and the lock/unlock disappeared. There's something real quirky about these older 2nd gens' and after market fixes obviously aren't forever.
 
Anyone who can explain how the Navone filter is connected please? Where do you connect the red wire? green and black are good. + and - but what about the green one? If anyone got pictures it would really help me out. Looking at the one above here, but can't tell where the green wire are connected...

Thanx!
 
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