TDC and supply line to injector pump... need help quick.

[sparks57]

Ok guys... . I've been trying to swap injection pumps and I've almost got the old one out...



But I'm having two problems.



#1: I can't find TDC. I've clicked the timing pin in, and have been pushing on it while my g/f was turning the engine via a rachet on the alternator... but the pin has NOT clicked in no matter how many times the engine is turned...



I repeat, I did "click" the pin in... and I felt it riding on the gear, but it never fell into any hole.



Any ideas?



#2: I cannot, for the life of me, get the supply line hose off of the pump. With all my might, and several different kinds of wrenches I cannot get the nut off that holds the hose down to the hexagonal shaped column. Yes, I am turning it the right way, and I have pulled VERY hard, to no avail...



Any ideas on that?



Any help at all would be great guys... haste is important because I need this done before dark!!!



PLEASE HELP!!!



Chris

 

[sparks57]

Come on people!!! I'm desperate!!!

 

[Stomp]

I would sure like to help you CB, but at the moment I am stuck in an underground bunker looking at cameras. When I get out I can go and look at my pickup to see what fuel line you are talking about and then maybe I can help you.



Maybe this site can help you find TDC at the bottom it tells you how to find TDC for piston Number one by watching the intake and exhaust valves. Then you wont have to use that useless pin.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/va...j/12_valve.html





Stomp

 

[Case500D]

CB,



Take the timing pin out and use your little finger to find the hole in the cam gear. To remove the timing pin you will need a dental/o-ring pick. There is a small snap ring or star type washer that holds the timing pin in. Pull this ring off and then take a screw driver and pop the timing pin out (towards the pump). Once that is done you can use a finger to feel for the hole while turning the engine. Remove #1 valve cover and watch the valves. When the valves are both closed (up) and the timing pin hole is found, #1 piston is at TDC. Mark the dampener on the front of the engine so you can get in the ball park the next time. When you are all done just snap the timing pin back into the hole. The friction from the o-ring will keep it there just fine. There is no need to replace the washer/snap ring item.



Not sure what to tell you about the supply line.



Jeremy



PM me with your phone number if you have any more problems.

 

[cwienenga]

I couldn't get my pin to pop in either. like he said,take snap ring off and pull pin. remove #6 valve cover. rotate engine clockwise facing front of engine. exhaust valve will open then close then intake starts down and you are getting close. get a mechanics mirror and you can see in the pin holder for the hole in the gear as someone turns engine real slow. when it looks dead on install pin. (note; under no circumstances remove the pin holder from plate). pin must be used for true tdc, watching valves is approximate and ik for adjusting valves but not installing pump.



cliff

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

"... ..... Take the timing pin out and use your little finger to find the hole in the cam gear... "

What you may not know is Case is also known as 3 fingered Pete... . you figure out why... .



The fuel line (metal) at the front of the pump is a tuff one to break loose.

You need to be REAL REAL CAREFUL on this one...

You use one combo wrench to hold the mounting "fitting" and another to turn the metal nut on the fuel line.

If you mess up, the metal line itself, were it enters the retaining nut will turn and break.

I had that happen to me on the first time I pulled my pump off.

It's a booger to find the right line too... Piers had to personally go to Cummins and explain why he did not want the part number that "seemed" to be the right one, but rather the part number that "seemed" to be the wrong one...



did that make sense???



pb

 

[dpuckett]

CB,

I agree with Case500D on the timing pin issue- you can stick your finger in that hole with no worries of losing anything. Just make sure your better half dont get too jealous.



Now to your fuel line- you can follow the line back toward the fuel filter, and right behind the plane of the pump plate that gets in the way of taking out the shut off solenoid, is another line connection. You can take that connection loose, and remove the line with the pump, and then you can get a wrench at the fitting on the pump easier, without the gear case in your way.



Case500- you get those washers in yet?



Daniel

 

[Case500D]

PB,



Let me try my typing with 3 fingers, DOH. I guess I chould have said to just lay your finger against the back of the gear. The hole in the gear is 1/4" in diameter or less. No fear of getting snagged.



Daniel,



Got the washers, but have a headgasket to change. So, I will do the POD install after the headgasket and valve job. Thanks again for the washers.



Jeremy

 

[sparks57]

Ok guys... and yeah, I did remove the hose from above the f/w seperator... because trying to loosen the nut without slack in the hose was causing it to be crushed as I tried to get it loose...



Hopefully when I get it apart I can take the ripples out...



Anyways, thanks for the help guys... I'm gonna take a whack at it here pretty soon.



And on the supply line... I've been using a 17mm wrench to hold the bottom, and a channel-lock and other kinds of wrenches to get the top nut... I've even smacked on the top wrench with a small hammer...



And STILL it won't come out...



So I guess I'll just find TDC and yank the pump with the hose on... if I can do that. The hose is pretty long and it might get bent up with me trying to get it out...

 

[CDegner]

Originally posted by CB_Parker

So I guess I'll just find TDC and yank the pump with the hose on... if I can do that. The hose is pretty long and it might get bent up with me trying to get it out...

No reason it should get bent up doing it that way. That is what I did on my recent R&R. Everything that is in the way is coming off with the pump anyway.



Carl

 

[sparks57]

Hmm... I was thinking more of the injection lines tangling it up... but I'm gonna go do it right now...



If I'm not back in 24 hours, send Search and Rescue and some apple pie!!!

 

[dpuckett]

I REALLY hate to burst your bubble.....

but yer gonna hafta take out them injector lines . The little clamp doo hickies take a 5/16 or 8mm wrench. Once you have the injector lines off, you will see the joint I referred to- about halfway between the fuel filter and IP. I have done R&R with both parts of the supply line attached, though. S&R & apple pie :-laf



-DP

 

[sparks57]

Well, I didn't take the injector lines out... but I did take the little holders off. It would have been a lot easier if I did take them off though...



Anyways, the Wonder Pump is on the truck, minus a few doodads that I'll put back on in the morning... otherwise, the ol' girl should be running tomorrow.



That is... if it's put together right...



The only thing that was a little scary was getting the pump shaft into the gear without dropping that little key into the timing case. I put a mirror down on the fan so I could see that they were aligned... I tightened it down and I didn't hear any clank so I guess the key stayed in.



I never got the hose apart... I just yanked it out. It survived. I'm going to order a new one anyways... damn thing is crinkled a little at the base and I'd really like to get one that will come apart when I need it.



Hey PB, what is the cummins p/n for the hose and the flow-through nut?



This whole ordeal has been one pain in the arss... this better be the end of it... every thing that could go wrong lately, has... and it's really draining my enthusiasm.



Cross your fingers guys, tomorrow morning the Wonder Weenie should roar!!!

 

[JLEONARD]

tomorrow morning the Wonder Weenie should roar!

Well???? How did it go? Running?

Jay