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TDR badge was nice while it lasted

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Cummins 4025182 pig tail

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I made a bolt-on TDR badge early yesterday afternoon and I slapped it onto the front grille today. I tightened the bolt down, but only hand tight. Drove to Colorado Springs and the sucker was gone.



I dunno if the JD weld failed or if I was just impatient. Any ideas?
 
You didn't say what type of bolt you used with the J-B Weld. You should use a large headed bolt like a carriage bolt or an elevator bolt (best). I used 5 minute epoxy and the elevator bolt. I also roughed up both surfaces first. You might not have let the J-B Weld cure long enough.
 
The answer..........

3M badge tape to the front middle of the bunper- I first put it on and then didn't like the way it wasn't centered:rolleyes: and I had to pry it off with a big screw driver. I doubt it will come off under driving of any kind. I don't like the looks of it on the grill anyway.



Kev
 
I ground down the bolt head, used automotive grade panel adhesive (glues corvettes togeather). Hand tightened the nut, but used two nuts to lock it .



So far, lasted 5 months and deer hit.
 
Shooter-

I think that is what might have happened as I didn't want to tighten the nut too much b/c it would roatate out the bolt.



BTW... what does a carriage bolt or concrete bolt look like?
 
Yesterday & today may be the key. JB Weld takes a full 24 hours to cure even with heat during the last 12 hours.



I used two (2) 1/4" flat head screws and 3/8" flat washers. I cut a countersink in the washers and buttered the whole thing down with JB Weld. I also did the same with a Cummins Power cab plate. I mounted them in my grill over the cold fronts.



Here's a good chart of <a href=http://www.chesfast.com/images/cht4.jpg target=_blank>fasteners</a>



-John
 
Yours came with a NUT or mounting hardware of some kind???



Mine Did Not.



If they'd have just told me the pitch of the thread I'll run down and get a nylok nut and the right size fender washer to back it with, little blue or red thread lock and that sumbiach aint coming off w/o the section of the grille its bolted through.



Ps. Anyone know the pitch on the mounting stud???



MAD Max
 
I used a NYLON toilet seat bolt and roughed up the surface on the back of the badge and the head part of the nylon. 2~Part epoxy and a year later she is still there. HOWEVER the new ones come with a stud on the back of them (Got a bunch for the wrench day in Mass)<hr>

Truck Bio:

Y2K+1 3500 4X4 Quad Cab 4:10:1 LSD



Somewhat Powerpacked By Bank's (4 inch exhaust,High ram intake,~Minus~wastgate mod to 38 psi,~Minus~ottomind TLC +guages,K&N) ,Blue Chip Premium FMC DTT~93%TC~&~VB~TC Smart controller, Mag-Hytec's Double Deep Trans pan,DD injectors+Van Aken+Autometer Guages. ,Piers Modified PDR HX turbo,Enterprise Engine PerformancePusher pump setup Front End Leveling Kit from Jakit with 255/85R16 BFG http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/ M/T's Custom Rhino Liner (see Tool Man's truck feature)DeeZee Black Diamond Plate Bed Rails And Tool Box , WAAG Side tubes with kick~outs Mopar Performance accessories-Sill plates-hitch cover-cargo aux lamp'n'Power, Hadley air systems 150 psi comp and air storage. DynaMat Sound deadening applied to entire cab and doors, Check out Tool's Stuff#ad


N. E. T. D. P

Three worded story ... ..... "over 1350 posts - a new record!"
 
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Mine came with a 10-32 screw in the back of it.

I got one of those nylon inserted self locking nuts.

I also put on some 3M double sided tape, the kind used for body moulding.

Eric
 
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