Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller ?'s

[CCiatteo]

Finally got around to installing the brake controller and taking my (new to me) full deck car hauler for a test spin (empty). Now I have a few questions.



Truck is in sig. Trailer is a 2007 18' open Bri-Mar. Controller is a Tekonsha Prodigy with harness to go from factory connection under the dash to the controller, no splicing or scotch-locks etc. Brake controller is mounted where the ashtray used to be and is level.



I followed the directions on setting the power levels on the controller and have the trailer wheels right on the edge of lock up. But I have a couple codes that flash intermittently and all occur over rough roads/patches at speeds in excess of 25mph.



I get the S. H. code which is a short while idle.



I get the codes -. - and _. _ which mean the controller is mounted at an incorrect angle.



The brakes work fine, boost works fine, I can feel braking differences when I crank in more brake or boost. Reverse feature works fine. The truck/trailer connection is factory dodge 7blade RV style and the trailer connection is brand new. What could be causing these codes? Faulty wiring on the trailer itself? Or is the controller very sensitive to the road conditions?



I took a quick glance under the trailer and all the wiring appears to be unmolested and is in plastic loom, looks factory?



As soon as I get past the rough patches all is well.



Thanks for any input.

 

[Jim W]

Chris, In your post you state that the brake controller is level. Do you mean that the unit is parallel to the floor? If this is the case, I believe the unit may be mounted incorrectly. The unit should be mounted at an angle in order for the pendulum to work correctly. If you go on to the web site for the brake control and down load the mounting instructions you will see a diagram showing the proper angle that is required for the controller. If this is not the case then recheck your wiring in the cab to ensure all of the wires are going to the proper connections.

Hope this helps?

 

[Adventure Bob]

The tekonsha install instructions say between 0 and 70 deg nose up. It also says that you should leave some margin so that when your on an uphill or downhill you dont get the hi or low indication. I know mines too close to 0 and on uphills I get the nose low bars. Not too worried about the brake controller being 100% effective on the uphills as I am on the down hills. I've never had a problem with it braking properly though. The prodigy doesnt have a pendulum in it by the way, it uses a 2 axis accelerometer.

 

[AKetay]

The S. H. code is most likely you trailer. Can occur when you have a corroded connector at the trailer brake itself. I pull many different trailers and see this alot. While parked, manually apply the brake controller lever slowly to see when it shorts. At higher voltages it may arc at a bad connection. If you have help, you can hear the trailer brakes humming as the power is applied. You will hear a difference at the brake with a bad connection. Hope this helps.

 

[CCiatteo]

Chris, In your post you state that the brake controller is level. Do you mean that the unit is parallel to the floor? If this is the case, I believe the unit may be mounted incorrectly. The unit should be mounted at an angle in order for the pendulum to work correctly. If you go on to the web site for the brake control and down load the mounting instructions you will see a diagram showing the proper angle that is required for the controller. If this is not the case then recheck your wiring in the cab to ensure all of the wires are going to the proper connections.

Hope this helps?

The tekonsha install instructions say between 0 and 70 deg nose up. It also says that you should leave some margin so that when your on an uphill or downhill you dont get the hi or low indication. I know mines too close to 0 and on uphills I get the nose low bars. Not too worried about the brake controller being 100% effective on the uphills as I am on the down hills. I've never had a problem with it braking properly though. The prodigy doesnt have a pendulum in it by the way, it uses a 2 axis accelerometer.

I have it mounted in the dash where the ashtray once was, so it parallel to the floor +/-. I'll check this to night to and see if I can rotate the face of the unit up and see if that helps with the -. - and _. _ codes.

The S. H. code is most likely you trailer. Can occur when you have a corroded connector at the trailer brake itself. I pull many different trailers and see this alot. While parked, manually apply the brake controller lever slowly to see when it shorts. At higher voltages it may arc at a bad connection. If you have help, you can hear the trailer brakes humming as the power is applied. You will hear a difference at the brake with a bad connection. Hope this helps.

I'll have to crawl under the trailer and check the brake connections at the wheels. This sounds like a good place to start because it only occurs when the trailer gets bounced around.



Thanks for the tips.

 

[Gaylord]

I had this very same problem with the same controler. Turned out it was the connector from the trailer. If I wiggled it, the SH code would go away, but return after a few times of brake use. I cleaned the contacts and the problem went away. I bought another connector at Quartzsite and will install it when the weather warms up. Right now we have snow in the high desert. HTH

 

[WestTN]

If it only happens when the trailer gets bounced, I'll bet the brake wires are routed through the axle tubes. If so, run the wires outside the tubes and you will lose the short indication.

 

[CCiatteo]

I had this very same problem with the same controler. Turned out it was the connector from the trailer. If I wiggled it, the SH code would go away, but return after a few times of brake use. I cleaned the contacts and the problem went away. I bought another connector at Quartzsite and will install it when the weather warms up. Right now we have snow in the high desert. HTH

If it only happens when the trailer gets bounced, I'll bet the brake wires are routed through the axle tubes. If so, run the wires outside the tubes and you will lose the short indication.

Finally got around to looking into these problems. The lead from the trailer is brand new. I bought and installed it because the lead that came with the trailer was a 7 way round lug type. The new one has a 7 blade on one end and a weather-pak connector on the other end where it plugs into the trailer harness/brake box. I cleaned the factory connector at the back of the truck, there was some oxidation on the terminals, but nothing too bad.



After crawling under the trailer, the brake wires are run through the axle tubes as suspected. There are grommets in place where the wire goes into and out of the tubes. Should the wires be run on the outside of the tubes and zip ties in place?



The S. H. codes goes away with the slightest movement on the brake controller manual knob, so does that mean it is a weak connection or maybe some corrosion at the brake itself?

 

[WestTN]

After crawling under the trailer, the brake wires are run through the axle tubes as suspected. There are grommets in place where the wire goes into and out of the tubes. Should the wires be run on the outside of the tubes and zip ties in place?





This is exactly the problem I had. The inside of the axle tube is rough and eventually the insulation wears through causing the intermittewnt short. Tie wrapping new wires to the outside of the tube will cure the problem. If you pull the old wires out, a careful inspection will reveal the short. Mine was about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. I wouldn't have found it but for the flat spot of about 3/8" of insulation worn flat.

 

[CCiatteo]

This is exactly the problem I had. The inside of the axle tube is rough and eventually the insulation wears through causing the intermittewnt short. Tie wrapping new wires to the outside of the tube will cure the problem. If you pull the old wires out, a careful inspection will reveal the short. Mine was about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. I wouldn't have found it but for the flat spot of about 3/8" of insulation worn flat.

Thanks for this tip, I'll be pullling the wires out this weekend.



In looking for the brake issues I found other wiring problems. Its amazing the shoddy work people do and the efforts companies will go to save a few dollars. Bri-Mar routes the wiring for the stop lights and the rear most side marker lights along the rearmost frame member of the trailer. This just so happens to be the lowest point on the trailer and the most likely place to bottom out and scrape going in and out of driveways etc. It is also where the there are moving parts----the ramps which slide in and out of the tail. How friggin' stupid are they? The wire loom looks like it was run through a cheese grater and its was only a matter of time before I would have lost all lighting at the rear of the trailer. Thanks Bri-Mar. So I am going to reroute the wires on a frame cross member in front of the ramps, then run three seperate harnesses down to the tail. One for the left side, one for the center lights/license plate and one for the right side. It will take some more wire, but I'll never have to worry about it again. Unbelievable.

 

[WestTN]

You probably have the brake wires running through the axle tubes. In time, that causes an intermittent short when running on rough roads. It always gets worse, never. If your wires are through the tube, replace them with new wire tywrapped to the outside of the axle.

 

[CCiatteo]

You probably have the brake wires running through the axle tubes. In time, that causes an intermittent short when running on rough roads. It always gets worse, never. If your wires are through the tube, replace them with new wire tywrapped to the outside of the axle.

Well I finished up fixing all the wiring gremlins on my trailer today. I ended up tracking down the SH code to a loose screw inside the brand new trailer connector I purchased. Turns out the center post isn't used on the trailer and the set screw for the wire which would normally go there was loose and laying against the blue brake wire for the trailer. I tightened that screw down, reassembled the trailer connector and all is well. I just got back from a nice long trip over some of the roughest roads I could find and no codes at all.



I appreciate the tip about the wires inside the axle tube, but that turned out to not be the problem. I am sure it will save me headaches in the future because I made that change before finding my problem.



I will say this, having spent the last couple nights after work and all day today laying under and crawling all over my BRI-MAR trailer, I am dissappointed in the way the wiring was routed, secured and terminated. The whole wiring harness for the trailer was only grounded in one spot, up front through a 1/4-20 nut and bolt with 14 or 16 guage wire. So if you loose that one connection, you loose the entire trailer potentially. Not a good idea. I have a feeling the bean counters came up with that one.

 

[CamarosRus]

Hello, New member here with (new to me) 03' Q. C. Long Bed 6spd... ...



I need a brake controller for my 20' Pace Amer Shadow GT car trailer.



From what I gather this Tekonsha Prodigy is one of the most popular/best controllers ??



Where might be the lowest price on line vendor to order from with possible free shipping??



Thanks, Chuck

 

[chipster]

Hello, New member here with (new to me) 03' Q. C. Long Bed 6spd... ...



I need a brake controller for my 20' Pace Amer Shadow GT car trailer.



From what I gather this Tekonsha Prodigy is one of the most popular/best controllers ??



Where might be the lowest price on line vendor to order from with possible free shipping??



Thanks, Chuck

The last one I bought from RJays speed shop.com 866 439 7529 was $95 plus shippin`:-laf

 

[JVolpe]

I bought my P3 from etrailer.com



Brake Controllers Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

 

[BIGNASTY]

Had same problem on my travel trailer with same controler had a brake magnet wire with a loose conection work and no work deal